Mockups of Sleeves (with photo link)
Summer is coming to an end for the kids, so I've been busy spending time with them. This means less time working on my own projects, so the short gown was put on the back burner for a bit.
But I have been able to spend a little amount of time in the past few days working a pattern and mockup of the essential parts of the gown, the bodice and sleeves. The bodice was pretty easy, as I had the original blue linen kirtle pattern to work from (once I figured out I hadn't added any seam allowance which I forgot to note on the pattern).
The somewhat harder part has been the sleeves. I wasn't sure how full to make the drape of the sleeves, so I asked folks on the Elizabethan Costume page, and wonderful Margo Anderson helped me out by draping her half-form and came up with an initial pattern which she shared on the group here.
As I sat down to pattern out the sleeves yesterday, it came to me that this shape is the same as the typical turn-backed Tudor sleeve seen in many portraits and of course, in several pattern sets including Margo's. The split down the front could be a part of the pattern if it was designed to be worked in silk (smaller width of fabric) and simply left open, instead of sewn shut as is typical. So this is not an unusual pattern shape, just a different way of wearing the sleeve! I was very excited when I realized that, although I would not have guessed it until then.
I pulled out Margo's Tudor Lady's pattern set and was about to trace it out for use, when I realized I would have to futz around with fitting the upper portion of the sleeve to fit my own arms - a process I didn't want to do again. So, looking at the shapes, I used my already fitted 2-part sleeves from Margo's Elizabethan Lady's set, and spent a few hours extending the upper and lower sleeves into the proper shapes.
After a while longer, I cut it out of scrap fabric, only making it a shorter version since I didn't have that much mockup fabric to work with. Well, the idea was very close, but it didn't flow the same as it does in the inspiration image to my eye. The upper arm I don't think should be so fitted, and I realized the back of the sleeve should start its drape from the upper armscye. And it needed to open above the elbow point - it may even need the open cutting that Margo has in her pattern, but that is a minor issue.
Before I called it quits last night, I did look at the pattern set for the sleeves in The Queen's Servants book and Ninya has the sleeves shaped differently for a nice drape, but with a flat bottom sleeve hem. The drape line gave me the clue I needed to change things for my own pattern.
So, that's what I did today. Considering my outfit is the same time frame to TQS info, I decided to modify my shape a little more like theirs, by loosely curving a line from the armscye to the point of the quarter circle hemline curve. That is where I kept Margo's pattern, as I would rather keep the curved bottom to the sleeve (vs straight bottom of Ninya's pattern) if it gave the right shape.
So far, it looks like it will. I've got to say that I am happy with how mockup #2 looks, and I like how the upper arms are looser but still attractive in the drape of the sleeve, and the curve of the hem.
Because the "new" LJ Scrapbook program is not to my liking, I've posted the initial mockup photos on my own web site.
http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/1510WoolShtGwn/
There is one more photo there of mockup #2, along with the inspiration images.
I will now work on futzing with the opening of the arm slit which does need to be widened a little so it will lay open without bunching up too much. I want the future embroidery area (on the next silk version) to look as nice as possible. Then it will be on to cutting out and making the outfit in blue wool. On this, I just need to decide - by hand or by machine, or a blend of both?
But I have been able to spend a little amount of time in the past few days working a pattern and mockup of the essential parts of the gown, the bodice and sleeves. The bodice was pretty easy, as I had the original blue linen kirtle pattern to work from (once I figured out I hadn't added any seam allowance which I forgot to note on the pattern).
The somewhat harder part has been the sleeves. I wasn't sure how full to make the drape of the sleeves, so I asked folks on the Elizabethan Costume page, and wonderful Margo Anderson helped me out by draping her half-form and came up with an initial pattern which she shared on the group here.
As I sat down to pattern out the sleeves yesterday, it came to me that this shape is the same as the typical turn-backed Tudor sleeve seen in many portraits and of course, in several pattern sets including Margo's. The split down the front could be a part of the pattern if it was designed to be worked in silk (smaller width of fabric) and simply left open, instead of sewn shut as is typical. So this is not an unusual pattern shape, just a different way of wearing the sleeve! I was very excited when I realized that, although I would not have guessed it until then.
I pulled out Margo's Tudor Lady's pattern set and was about to trace it out for use, when I realized I would have to futz around with fitting the upper portion of the sleeve to fit my own arms - a process I didn't want to do again. So, looking at the shapes, I used my already fitted 2-part sleeves from Margo's Elizabethan Lady's set, and spent a few hours extending the upper and lower sleeves into the proper shapes.
After a while longer, I cut it out of scrap fabric, only making it a shorter version since I didn't have that much mockup fabric to work with. Well, the idea was very close, but it didn't flow the same as it does in the inspiration image to my eye. The upper arm I don't think should be so fitted, and I realized the back of the sleeve should start its drape from the upper armscye. And it needed to open above the elbow point - it may even need the open cutting that Margo has in her pattern, but that is a minor issue.
Before I called it quits last night, I did look at the pattern set for the sleeves in The Queen's Servants book and Ninya has the sleeves shaped differently for a nice drape, but with a flat bottom sleeve hem. The drape line gave me the clue I needed to change things for my own pattern.
So, that's what I did today. Considering my outfit is the same time frame to TQS info, I decided to modify my shape a little more like theirs, by loosely curving a line from the armscye to the point of the quarter circle hemline curve. That is where I kept Margo's pattern, as I would rather keep the curved bottom to the sleeve (vs straight bottom of Ninya's pattern) if it gave the right shape.
So far, it looks like it will. I've got to say that I am happy with how mockup #2 looks, and I like how the upper arms are looser but still attractive in the drape of the sleeve, and the curve of the hem.
Because the "new" LJ Scrapbook program is not to my liking, I've posted the initial mockup photos on my own web site.
http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/1510WoolShtGwn/
There is one more photo there of mockup #2, along with the inspiration images.
I will now work on futzing with the opening of the arm slit which does need to be widened a little so it will lay open without bunching up too much. I want the future embroidery area (on the next silk version) to look as nice as possible. Then it will be on to cutting out and making the outfit in blue wool. On this, I just need to decide - by hand or by machine, or a blend of both?