Some progress, and on Trims.
Yes, still around, and been busy sewing and sewing and all for my MAAS outfit. I had hoped I would have time to blog it while I was working on it, but sadly not. I'm behind my schedule, and if I hope to get most of it done in time, the best I can do is take photos during the process, then post a series of blog posts later, once I'm done.
At this point, I have just completed the red damask kirtle. It is simply trimmed in a "guard" (binding) and a narrow "welt" (with a hidden cotton cord) of black silk taffeta fabric, all sewn by hand. It is the hand sewing that is slowing me down, but for something that will be seen like the welts, hand sewing it is. I've done nothing fancy to the strips of fabric. Most are just straight cuts of fabric, some are on the bias around the armholes and across the curved front of the bodice. When I work on the gown, I may add in small cuts to "pink" the fabric, but I may not have the time to do this.
My mind is being sidetracked by some interesting topics on the Elizabethan costume group on FB. One of the topics today is on the topic of TRIM! You know, that pretty jacquard trimming that is found in fabric stores all over, in various colors, usually with gold or silver metallic parts to it. Trim, that which is usually plastered all over renfaire outfits in all sorts of pretty patterns.
However, as is being discussed there, trim like that is really supposed to represent a form of EMBROIDERY of the period, and silk embroidery on garments was banned by sumptuary laws for all but those who are wives of baron's sons and above. If you add gold or silver metal to the embroidery - that means even a higher rank.
So, here I am portraying a wealthy merchant's wife, who is doing embroidery as my gig, and I am not allowed to put silk embroidery on my own kirtle or gown (but blackwork is allowed on the smock). This is appropriate, as I am not gentry or above.
But this is where having a consistent costume rules is important, because if I, portraying a wealthy person, am not allowed to wear embroidery (or modern trim that mimics embroidery), then should a craftsperson wear similar trim on their gown? Even as "advertisement" for their craft? In the case of the faire I am attending, the answer is no. This is good, because otherwise the craftperson would appear to be dressed in a better outfit than I would be wearing, and that would confuse the patron.
But at so many ren-faires, there would be no official answer, and a wide variety of folks, from the lowest commonfolk to the high courtiers may all be wearing the pretty trims that are available today; because it is pretty, because they want to wear it, because it is cheap and affordable, and more reasons besides. I know, I used to do the same thing, and now I've got lots of trims in my stash that really is best left to be put onto Elizabethan court wear (or SCA tunics).
The other thought I have, is I am putting in a lot of hand sewing on a garment that will barely be seen under my gown. The gown will have its own share of hand sewing as well, but I think I should have rethought my priorities once I realized the time limit I had. Ah well, at least I know it is all there. And there is machine sewing, as I serged the edges of the skirt fabrics, so it wouldn't unravel i the wash. I also machine stitched the long skirt seams, mainly for time. I'll be doing the same for the gown.
Which, I need to get back to, as I need to drape the bodice portion of the gown over the kirtle bodice, and hope I get it right. I'll be sure to add in extra seam allowance for the mockup.
At this point, I have just completed the red damask kirtle. It is simply trimmed in a "guard" (binding) and a narrow "welt" (with a hidden cotton cord) of black silk taffeta fabric, all sewn by hand. It is the hand sewing that is slowing me down, but for something that will be seen like the welts, hand sewing it is. I've done nothing fancy to the strips of fabric. Most are just straight cuts of fabric, some are on the bias around the armholes and across the curved front of the bodice. When I work on the gown, I may add in small cuts to "pink" the fabric, but I may not have the time to do this.
My mind is being sidetracked by some interesting topics on the Elizabethan costume group on FB. One of the topics today is on the topic of TRIM! You know, that pretty jacquard trimming that is found in fabric stores all over, in various colors, usually with gold or silver metallic parts to it. Trim, that which is usually plastered all over renfaire outfits in all sorts of pretty patterns.
However, as is being discussed there, trim like that is really supposed to represent a form of EMBROIDERY of the period, and silk embroidery on garments was banned by sumptuary laws for all but those who are wives of baron's sons and above. If you add gold or silver metal to the embroidery - that means even a higher rank.
So, here I am portraying a wealthy merchant's wife, who is doing embroidery as my gig, and I am not allowed to put silk embroidery on my own kirtle or gown (but blackwork is allowed on the smock). This is appropriate, as I am not gentry or above.
But this is where having a consistent costume rules is important, because if I, portraying a wealthy person, am not allowed to wear embroidery (or modern trim that mimics embroidery), then should a craftsperson wear similar trim on their gown? Even as "advertisement" for their craft? In the case of the faire I am attending, the answer is no. This is good, because otherwise the craftperson would appear to be dressed in a better outfit than I would be wearing, and that would confuse the patron.
But at so many ren-faires, there would be no official answer, and a wide variety of folks, from the lowest commonfolk to the high courtiers may all be wearing the pretty trims that are available today; because it is pretty, because they want to wear it, because it is cheap and affordable, and more reasons besides. I know, I used to do the same thing, and now I've got lots of trims in my stash that really is best left to be put onto Elizabethan court wear (or SCA tunics).
The other thought I have, is I am putting in a lot of hand sewing on a garment that will barely be seen under my gown. The gown will have its own share of hand sewing as well, but I think I should have rethought my priorities once I realized the time limit I had. Ah well, at least I know it is all there. And there is machine sewing, as I serged the edges of the skirt fabrics, so it wouldn't unravel i the wash. I also machine stitched the long skirt seams, mainly for time. I'll be doing the same for the gown.
Which, I need to get back to, as I need to drape the bodice portion of the gown over the kirtle bodice, and hope I get it right. I'll be sure to add in extra seam allowance for the mockup.