Maas Embroideress design sketch
Yeah, I've been occupied elsewhere, and finally got my mind back to the big project ahead of me. While I've lost time, in some ways in a few short weeks, I'll be gaining large chunks of time with the kids back in school full time (yippeee, Kermit arms flailing in joy!!!). So, I've been enjoying being with the kids while summer for them remains. I think it is a decent tradeoff.
But anyway, back to my next big sewing project, while the kids played at a splash park yesterday, and between watching them at play, I got out my newest sketch book, and sketched up my design. But before I show you that image, I thought I would go over the photos and images, including new ones, that helped me come up with that final design, so you can see where each idea comes from. All of the images come from the late 1560s to 1570s.
1569 JHoefnagel A Fete at Bermondsey, detail 1
I think these ladies are gentry. However, the lady in yellow's outer gown appears to be trimmed in a shiny silk ribbon that gives a tone-on-tone look that is attractive. I'm thinking of doing tone on tone with the black wool.
1569 JHoefnagel A Fete at Bermondsey, detail 5
The woman in red's gown short sleeves are an interesting detail. I am going to attempt to reproduce this, if I can. I also like the red with black trim, although in my case it could be black with red silk trim??
c.1570-75, Lucas de Heere, A Group of English Women
The woman to the far left has similar sleeve detail to the lady in red above. This gives a better front view, but appears to be a shorter slash/line. Also, I just realized that the collars on the two left women appear to be turned down (instead of worn up) - could it be the collar from the image below turned down?
Detail from "The Four Elements: Air."
"A Poultry Market with the Prodigal Son in the Background", by Joachim Beuckelaer, 1560-1574, National Gallery. From the Google Art project.
Note center front of bodice, where there appears to be a seamline. It may also be an artifact of photography, or an imperfection of the painted board/canvas. But this seamline would be helpful to anywoman above a B cup, like me. I plan on making a curved front kirtle bodice using this kind of seamline. Also note how high the bodice front is.
Effigy monument of Anne (Williston) Denton, c.1566.
Photo by Ninya Mikhaila, and posted to the Elizabethan Costume group on Facebook. (she has more photos of this effigy there)
"ANNE WILLISTON (November 1, 1548- October 29, 1566)
Anne Williston was the daughter of Richard Williston of Sugwas, Herefordshire (d.1574) and Anne Elton. She was the first wife of Alexander Denton (1542-1576) and died in childbirth at the age of eighteen. Her monument in Hereford Cathedral shows her with her baby and her husband..." - from Who's Who of Tudor Women
I am interested in her V-shaped neckline into the high standing collar. With her ruff also standing high, this would requires me to make a high necked partlet to attach the ruff to, as my smock is low square necked. I also like her trimmings along the gown opening, and into the collar.
Also note that she has mounds to her bosom - it isn't flat and straight. I don't think she's wearing an undergarment/kirtle that is fully boned or busked. Ninya states that there are other effigies that are similarly curvy during this time frame and earlier. She shared another photo of a Tudor effigy showing one very chesty but headless woman. It had cleavage even!
Initial sketch
Finally sketched my planned outfit. Main color/fabrics would be black wool, red cotton damask, and silk trimmings on the wool (in either black or red). I plan on at least one pocket, a high necked linen partlet, full small suit of ruffs, and sleeves that will match the kirtle. I will make other sleeves later.
I love the look of the gown on Anne Denton. It really looks different than any of the gown repros and patterns I see normally, although not much different than having a high necked gown that is left open. But to have it deliberately designed that way - adorable, for early-mid Elizabethan that is. And as I was looking at the group of four English women sketch, it may be the same style of collar, only they've turned it down. I will have to see if this collar style can be turned down like that, or if it gives a different look.
I don't know if the English had separate pockets or what they looked like, but as they will be hidden, I will be making and using them.
And as noted in all that above, I am not sure if I want the black gown to be trimmed in red silk, or in black silk - preferably a shiny silk. The black on black is tried and true in period art, but how well does it read in real life? The red silk trim would read better at a distance, but would it look out of place? Thoughts??
I do need to pin down the plan soon, as I need to pick up whatever trimmings I want to use while I'm at the Garment District next week, at the end of Costume College. I also need to finish off the other mini-projects asap, and get my notes put together. I've got a week left, eeep!
But anyway, back to my next big sewing project, while the kids played at a splash park yesterday, and between watching them at play, I got out my newest sketch book, and sketched up my design. But before I show you that image, I thought I would go over the photos and images, including new ones, that helped me come up with that final design, so you can see where each idea comes from. All of the images come from the late 1560s to 1570s.
1569 JHoefnagel A Fete at Bermondsey, detail 1
I think these ladies are gentry. However, the lady in yellow's outer gown appears to be trimmed in a shiny silk ribbon that gives a tone-on-tone look that is attractive. I'm thinking of doing tone on tone with the black wool.
1569 JHoefnagel A Fete at Bermondsey, detail 5
The woman in red's gown short sleeves are an interesting detail. I am going to attempt to reproduce this, if I can. I also like the red with black trim, although in my case it could be black with red silk trim??
c.1570-75, Lucas de Heere, A Group of English Women
The woman to the far left has similar sleeve detail to the lady in red above. This gives a better front view, but appears to be a shorter slash/line. Also, I just realized that the collars on the two left women appear to be turned down (instead of worn up) - could it be the collar from the image below turned down?
Detail from "The Four Elements: Air."
"A Poultry Market with the Prodigal Son in the Background", by Joachim Beuckelaer, 1560-1574, National Gallery. From the Google Art project.
Note center front of bodice, where there appears to be a seamline. It may also be an artifact of photography, or an imperfection of the painted board/canvas. But this seamline would be helpful to anywoman above a B cup, like me. I plan on making a curved front kirtle bodice using this kind of seamline. Also note how high the bodice front is.
Effigy monument of Anne (Williston) Denton, c.1566.
Photo by Ninya Mikhaila, and posted to the Elizabethan Costume group on Facebook. (she has more photos of this effigy there)
"ANNE WILLISTON (November 1, 1548- October 29, 1566)
Anne Williston was the daughter of Richard Williston of Sugwas, Herefordshire (d.1574) and Anne Elton. She was the first wife of Alexander Denton (1542-1576) and died in childbirth at the age of eighteen. Her monument in Hereford Cathedral shows her with her baby and her husband..." - from Who's Who of Tudor Women
I am interested in her V-shaped neckline into the high standing collar. With her ruff also standing high, this would requires me to make a high necked partlet to attach the ruff to, as my smock is low square necked. I also like her trimmings along the gown opening, and into the collar.
Also note that she has mounds to her bosom - it isn't flat and straight. I don't think she's wearing an undergarment/kirtle that is fully boned or busked. Ninya states that there are other effigies that are similarly curvy during this time frame and earlier. She shared another photo of a Tudor effigy showing one very chesty but headless woman. It had cleavage even!
Initial sketch
Finally sketched my planned outfit. Main color/fabrics would be black wool, red cotton damask, and silk trimmings on the wool (in either black or red). I plan on at least one pocket, a high necked linen partlet, full small suit of ruffs, and sleeves that will match the kirtle. I will make other sleeves later.
I love the look of the gown on Anne Denton. It really looks different than any of the gown repros and patterns I see normally, although not much different than having a high necked gown that is left open. But to have it deliberately designed that way - adorable, for early-mid Elizabethan that is. And as I was looking at the group of four English women sketch, it may be the same style of collar, only they've turned it down. I will have to see if this collar style can be turned down like that, or if it gives a different look.
I don't know if the English had separate pockets or what they looked like, but as they will be hidden, I will be making and using them.
And as noted in all that above, I am not sure if I want the black gown to be trimmed in red silk, or in black silk - preferably a shiny silk. The black on black is tried and true in period art, but how well does it read in real life? The red silk trim would read better at a distance, but would it look out of place? Thoughts??
I do need to pin down the plan soon, as I need to pick up whatever trimmings I want to use while I'm at the Garment District next week, at the end of Costume College. I also need to finish off the other mini-projects asap, and get my notes put together. I've got a week left, eeep!