As a General rule I try not to use patterns for anything more then reference or to get friends started out. However I find that the vast majority of patterns are badly written, once so badly that I mailed them a new set in frustration after I figured out what they were trying to say. The Few exceptions I can think of are JP Ryan’s, Alter Years (partially bias because I helped edit them) and some laughing moon (post 1996 copyrights).
Generally I always alter any pattern I get because I tend to try and use full tailoring when I do my own garments. Here is a list of what I almost always do to everything. - create a separate lining pattern - make a center back lining pleat - expand the front underarm seam allowance - increase the Hymo and interfacing to the shoulder - alter standup collars to crown collars - use felt button turns - sleeve cap interfacing - alter the sleeve head, expand the lines - add room for a back interface - add padding for shoulder hollow
These quick changes generally make a marked improvement in how things come out and the overall fit.
On the machine, there is a list (have to dig it up) of rare or custom models that collectors look for also, look to see if you have a signature. These machines are prized. As for belts you can get good leather belts from classic motorcycle shops especially British classics. Its been a few years since I was looking around for one, I think there is a yahoo group for machine restoration.
Generally I always alter any pattern I get because I tend to try and use full tailoring when I do my own garments. Here is a list of what I almost always do to everything.
- create a separate lining pattern
- make a center back lining pleat
- expand the front underarm seam allowance
- increase the Hymo and interfacing to the shoulder
- alter standup collars to crown collars
- use felt button turns
- sleeve cap interfacing
- alter the sleeve head, expand the lines
- add room for a back interface
- add padding for shoulder hollow
These quick changes generally make a marked improvement in how things come out and the overall fit.
On the machine, there is a list (have to dig it up) of rare or custom models that collectors look for also, look to see if you have a signature. These machines are prized. As for belts you can get good leather belts from classic motorcycle shops especially British classics. Its been a few years since I was looking around for one, I think there is a yahoo group for machine restoration.
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