the swell is up
thursday was the highest tide i´ve seen yet, and combined with the huge swell that´s hitting the coast my commute across the beach to the surf break was nearly impassable. when the tide is low it´s a tranquil and beautiful walk. it´s the kind of walk i would travel thousands of miles for, braving border officials and the rigors of bus travel. across sandy coves and slabs of rock jutting out into the wild pacific ocean. crabs of vibrant colors scuttle underfoot, holding their claws in the air menacingly. to one side the low tropical jungle of central america hangs over the beach and on the other waves crash against sand and rock. i would do it 4 times a day for no reason at all, but here i get to do it with my surfboard under my arm.
high tide is a different story, and thursday was an adventure. we set out unsure if we could make the passage, as huge waves crashed against the rock walls we had walked under at calmer times. the beach had disappeared under the waves, and nicos stood at the edge of the trees looking out in excitement at the size and power of the ocean. an older couple turned back to take a taxi the long way around the road, as we climbed over the first rock. in places we had to hand my surf board down and over bigger drops and climbs. at times the water would blow up to your knees and carry with it the rough debris that had washed off of the land. we managed to arrive unscathed at the surf break, where a handful of people were standing on shore watching the few brave or stupid surfers who were out in the double to tripple head high sets. i watched for a long time thinking maybe there is a wave out there small enough for me. after getting a feel for the timing of the sets, i strapped on my leash, set my lip, and paddled out into the surf.
i never got my wave, but the feeling of being in swell that big was more than worth the effort.
high tide is a different story, and thursday was an adventure. we set out unsure if we could make the passage, as huge waves crashed against the rock walls we had walked under at calmer times. the beach had disappeared under the waves, and nicos stood at the edge of the trees looking out in excitement at the size and power of the ocean. an older couple turned back to take a taxi the long way around the road, as we climbed over the first rock. in places we had to hand my surf board down and over bigger drops and climbs. at times the water would blow up to your knees and carry with it the rough debris that had washed off of the land. we managed to arrive unscathed at the surf break, where a handful of people were standing on shore watching the few brave or stupid surfers who were out in the double to tripple head high sets. i watched for a long time thinking maybe there is a wave out there small enough for me. after getting a feel for the timing of the sets, i strapped on my leash, set my lip, and paddled out into the surf.
i never got my wave, but the feeling of being in swell that big was more than worth the effort.