still in jaco
i´ve been getting up around 5:30 to catch the morning high tide. it closes out here in jaco at low tide, so if you want to surf this is when you go. this morning i caught some really amazing rides. i´m getting stronger in the water, and am making a quicker bottom turn. i don´t know how to describe the feeling when you really get locked into a waves shoulder. but if you listen you can hear it when i´m howling joy.
i´m settling into a routine now: wake and walk to the beach. surf. shower. enjoy breakfast at cafe rustico. internets. drawing. rest all day. every two days a lesson.
the swell has died down a little here in jaco, so it´s much more manageable. we had some solid overhead days when i first got in, and having heard jaco was a little bit easier of a beach for costa rica i thought i was fucked. i´m feeling a lot more confidant now and am thinking about staying longer.
i´m settling into a routine now: wake and walk to the beach. surf. shower. enjoy breakfast at cafe rustico. internets. drawing. rest all day. every two days a lesson.
the swell has died down a little here in jaco, so it´s much more manageable. we had some solid overhead days when i first got in, and having heard jaco was a little bit easier of a beach for costa rica i thought i was fucked. i´m feeling a lot more confidant now and am thinking about staying longer.