Alpine Stockholm Syndrome
Thursday was my best day of rock climbing this year. SAfr has been bugging me all year to go on a weekday and I resisted, bc he's got poor social skills and occasionally offends me. But I couldn't put him off this time and I'm so glad we went, bc I felt like I integrated everything I'd learned from SR and from Rumney. He was very chill about grabbing sandwiches in town and carried the rope, even though we apparently both brought full racks. He wasn't feeling very spunky and asked me what my goal-climbs are. I mentioned the 5.6s I want to climb later this year, emphasizing the later this yearness. Eventually we ended up on Black Fly (5.5 G *) and Nice 5.9 Climb. I led the former. I've noticed that if I'm on lead and start hating climbing, wondering why I do this, I'm probably at the crux. Thursday was the first time I actually hung off a piece I'd placed: when we were in Rumney, on that 5.9 I led, I'd gotten in the habit of placing a piece and resting. Which JBeau emphasized to me is a legit tactic. It's also a great way to find out if your piece will hold at least body weight. Admittedly, I'd hate for a piece to blow as I was exhausted, but (a) if my placements are that shitty, I should know and (b) regularly hanging from my pieces will develop my confidence. I was quite nervous about belaying SAfr on Nice 5.9 Climb, as he didn't sound spanky in the parking lot, but he was fine and his comment about a side pull at the crux meant I got through it faster than a few weeks ago.
I'd never led RMC (5.5- G *) before, even though it's been other moderate leads. And quite nice. SAfr gave me regular beta, which was nice. The tough part was a crack below an overhang. I jammed my foot hard, got my piece in - and couldn't get my foot out again. oops. Obviously I did, after a while, but that section was very awkward, rolling around under an overhang, trying to stay firmly on rocks. Before I left to climb pitch 2, SAfr commented, "The crux is right at the beginning, so if you can't do it, just traverse back and I'll take the lead." Somehow knowing I didn't have to lead it made it easier and I had no trouble, even though it was the harder pitch. He laughed at my rope management at the top of the pitch - it got all tangled and fell down the cliff - so in another personal first, I had my first hanging belay from an anchor I'd built. (Strictly speaking, SR leaping from the cliff on my anchor was also a hanging belay, and he would've taken me with him if the anchor had blown, but it wasn't my choice so.) I'd had so much fun, I asked if I could lead the third pitch. He was amused and said yes. It was still interesting climbing, even though it was 5.3, but there were so many bolts, I joked it is a sport climb.
When we got to the bottom, two guides had turned up with one client. Apparently a bear walked past when we were down there, but we hadn't noticed. SAfr decided to climb Jane, after checking it out on his way up. It's a 5.7+, but he found it quite hard. When it was my turn, I clung and ripped my fingers and fell (but eventually made it up of course). By then we were quite beat, so he gave me a ride to the station and I read all the way home. It was a great day.
Friday morning, I woke up and decided I need to climb a mountain, bc summer is ending and I have nothing booked and no plans. I was debating between a 12-day alpine rock leading class in the Bugaboos, a 6-day alpine ice class, or a quickie up Rainier. Chose the last, largely bc with no training, it was the most do-able, but also bc my guide from the Himalayas would be there. Spent the rest of the day booking that. Fri night, I went to Ct and had dinner at the best bar in town.
Saturday morning, bc Jon and I were there, my mum had us clean the pool furniture to bring to my brother's new house. Cleaning with a son of Hestia is So. Hard. but he made lots of inappropriate funnies, so I forgave him. My brother's new place is huge and gorgeous. It turned out to be quite a party, even though really, the best parts of the day were playing in the pool with his daughter and watching my mother ride around in her granddaughter's Power Wheels car.
We came back to the city in just enough time to dress for the Living Social Glow-in-the-Dark 5K, the worst race I've ever "run". The course was barely marked and they didn't sort people by time, so with thousands running, it was more an obstacle course, especially in the dark. There were some cool light decorations on the course, but I'd never do this again unless I had an opportunity to get high first. Once we finished in Citi Field, there weren't enough bars/food stands open. Jon and I danced for a bit, which was fun, then we got something to eat and watched the monitors, before heading home.
I woke pretty early on Sunday, washed my hair one last time, and finished packing. I'd planned to pack only my expedition duffle, but with extra boots, clothes for a play party, etc. I ended up with a rolling carry-on as well. oops. Eventually Jon got me out the door and I rode the subway all the way to JFK. I was earlyish for my flight, which is a shame bc Delta's new T4 really isn't ready for prime time. Still, I had a nice lunch at Marcus Samuelsson's Uptown Brasserie, Swedish meatballs and a cocktail. My flight sat on the runway for 2 hours, which would have been more annoying if I wasn't sitting next to the former head sommelier at the Bellagio, who had stories.
TWH cheerfully picked me up at the airport and even though she's just finished moving and was leaving the country a few days later, was the absolute perfect hostess. She had things for me to eat at her house (even though we eat opposite things), she made me tea, she sent me home with almost as many books as I returned. It made me wish I'd visited her in Seattle sooner. She took me to Glow for cream cheese and raspberry stuffed French toast and then drove me to the car rental agency.
To be continued...
I'd never led RMC (5.5- G *) before, even though it's been other moderate leads. And quite nice. SAfr gave me regular beta, which was nice. The tough part was a crack below an overhang. I jammed my foot hard, got my piece in - and couldn't get my foot out again. oops. Obviously I did, after a while, but that section was very awkward, rolling around under an overhang, trying to stay firmly on rocks. Before I left to climb pitch 2, SAfr commented, "The crux is right at the beginning, so if you can't do it, just traverse back and I'll take the lead." Somehow knowing I didn't have to lead it made it easier and I had no trouble, even though it was the harder pitch. He laughed at my rope management at the top of the pitch - it got all tangled and fell down the cliff - so in another personal first, I had my first hanging belay from an anchor I'd built. (Strictly speaking, SR leaping from the cliff on my anchor was also a hanging belay, and he would've taken me with him if the anchor had blown, but it wasn't my choice so.) I'd had so much fun, I asked if I could lead the third pitch. He was amused and said yes. It was still interesting climbing, even though it was 5.3, but there were so many bolts, I joked it is a sport climb.
When we got to the bottom, two guides had turned up with one client. Apparently a bear walked past when we were down there, but we hadn't noticed. SAfr decided to climb Jane, after checking it out on his way up. It's a 5.7+, but he found it quite hard. When it was my turn, I clung and ripped my fingers and fell (but eventually made it up of course). By then we were quite beat, so he gave me a ride to the station and I read all the way home. It was a great day.
Friday morning, I woke up and decided I need to climb a mountain, bc summer is ending and I have nothing booked and no plans. I was debating between a 12-day alpine rock leading class in the Bugaboos, a 6-day alpine ice class, or a quickie up Rainier. Chose the last, largely bc with no training, it was the most do-able, but also bc my guide from the Himalayas would be there. Spent the rest of the day booking that. Fri night, I went to Ct and had dinner at the best bar in town.
Saturday morning, bc Jon and I were there, my mum had us clean the pool furniture to bring to my brother's new house. Cleaning with a son of Hestia is So. Hard. but he made lots of inappropriate funnies, so I forgave him. My brother's new place is huge and gorgeous. It turned out to be quite a party, even though really, the best parts of the day were playing in the pool with his daughter and watching my mother ride around in her granddaughter's Power Wheels car.
We came back to the city in just enough time to dress for the Living Social Glow-in-the-Dark 5K, the worst race I've ever "run". The course was barely marked and they didn't sort people by time, so with thousands running, it was more an obstacle course, especially in the dark. There were some cool light decorations on the course, but I'd never do this again unless I had an opportunity to get high first. Once we finished in Citi Field, there weren't enough bars/food stands open. Jon and I danced for a bit, which was fun, then we got something to eat and watched the monitors, before heading home.
I woke pretty early on Sunday, washed my hair one last time, and finished packing. I'd planned to pack only my expedition duffle, but with extra boots, clothes for a play party, etc. I ended up with a rolling carry-on as well. oops. Eventually Jon got me out the door and I rode the subway all the way to JFK. I was earlyish for my flight, which is a shame bc Delta's new T4 really isn't ready for prime time. Still, I had a nice lunch at Marcus Samuelsson's Uptown Brasserie, Swedish meatballs and a cocktail. My flight sat on the runway for 2 hours, which would have been more annoying if I wasn't sitting next to the former head sommelier at the Bellagio, who had stories.
TWH cheerfully picked me up at the airport and even though she's just finished moving and was leaving the country a few days later, was the absolute perfect hostess. She had things for me to eat at her house (even though we eat opposite things), she made me tea, she sent me home with almost as many books as I returned. It made me wish I'd visited her in Seattle sooner. She took me to Glow for cream cheese and raspberry stuffed French toast and then drove me to the car rental agency.
To be continued...