At the Cliffs of the Lowest Common Denominator
I'm not sure how I was so busy on Friday -- and was still running 2hrs late, such that I missed having lunch with my mother. Instead Jon and I took Metro-North to Ct where my parents cheerfully lent us a car to drive to NH. For all that Labor Day traffic is legendarily bad, it took us <6hrs to drive to Plymouth. Unfortunately, the #1 rated lodging according to TripAdvisor turned out to be a creepy run-down motel. ah well.
We had a kinda slow start on Sat: on our way to Jimmy Cliff, a guy who was giving us directions commented 10 people had already passed headed for the same section. When we got there, we duly took our place on line for Clip a Dee Doo Dah, a 5.3 that GMac offered to let me lead during our aborted trip to NH last year. It's considered a 3-star classic, but now I see why GMac told me not to take Dr. Froshling on it. It's slab climbing, very similar to what I climbed in the 'dacks last weekend: I raced up it on all fours. Jon's never climbed anywhere with such high friction rock, so he was flummoxed: I assume his son made similar faces the first time he encountered carrots or succotash.
We were planning to do Lady & The Tramp (5.4 *) next, but the party ahead of us was so slow, I spent 20min waiting at the 5th bolt, watching 3 people climb the second pitch of Clip a Dee Doo Dah before anyone on Lady & The Tramp had started their second pitch. I was so annoyed - and so horrified - as Jon came up, I pointed out a textbook mistake in their anchor. I still have no idea what the fuck they were doing with their rappel.
After that, we rushed to the next section of cliff to get away. There was a clump of three moderate climbs, so we hopped on Piece of Cake (5.5 *). The asshat Canadians turned up and were so asshattish, the party on Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten (5.6 *) wordlessly agreed to trade climbs with us so we could avoid interacting with them.
Instead of waiting for the asshats to finish the nearby 5.7+, we headed further down the cliff to a climb someone from my club recommended, Nuthatch (5.7 *). It was one of the coolest climbs I've ever led. An initial slab I made more interesting by doing one handed (bringing someone the helmet he left next to my pack) and then an open book just narrow enough to chimney. I don't know why I loved it so much more than last weekend's chimney. There were all sorts of places to put a small finger or edge a little toe; there were stemming AND chimneying and the fun of transitioning; but there was also a place to clip a bolt every time I got nervous about falling. Awesomesauce. I had no idea how Jon was going to climb it, since his fingers are larger than mine, but apparently he could just reach for the next super hold. I loved that climb so much, I told Jon not to clean the anchor, instead climbing it one last time on top rope.
Considering how achy and sore we were an hour later, it's just as well we stopped there. Driving back to our motel, we drove past a seafood place that looked busy. It was well worth waiting 20mins with no drinks: the clam chowder was delicious, as was the fried shrimp and bbq ribs. And then we got to our motel just as Dr. Froshling was pulling up. YAAY!
Dr. Froshling later commented that if we'd slept in, we might've been able to climb Sunday. I'm afraid she's right. As it was, when we got to the trailhead, it was starting to rain so hard, I couldn't imagine climbing. We decamped to the motel, where we discovered all the fun things to do in the area, including the world's largest arcade. I can't believe Dr. Froshling still hasn't been outdoor climbing, but it was totally worth it to find out Jon is a pinball fiend. I should've guessed that someone who will cook the same thing over and over might be willing to do the same with Tempest. Meanwhile, Dr. Froshling noted that the random games I barely remembered and wouldn't leave - Bank Panic and Tapper - were about multi-tasking. As far as we can tell, she just likes button-mashing.
I also really liked that we got to chat in the car on the way to the nearby outlet mall. No one seemed particularly surprised when I whipped out my list of things I need to buy, which is how I ended up finally getting a new leather jacket. There weren't many high end stores, but we wandered into Polo Ralph Lauren. Dr. Froshling insisted I try on a dress. The sleeves are long and I'm still not sure what I'll use it for, other than winter dates with Julian, but I liked the leather detailing -- and it fit like a dream. We also searched the entire Nike store and found only one pair of shorts with large pockets. It wasn't in the running section and I'm worried that it will chafe during a long run, but it was $15 and hugs my curves so tightly, Jon said he'd follow me anywhere in them. Awww.
We ended up at a restaurant called Onions. The service was haphazard, but they had a bottle of Stag's Leap Artemis for less than I was expecting and I bet George Chancellor's inn was a lot like it, back in the day. And then Dr. Froshling had to go home *sniffles*
Next day, we set out with the same itinerary as the day before. When we got to the Venus Wall, there were a pair of old guys climbing a 5.1. Perhaps it was self-interest that they talked us into climbing the 5.2 * next to them, Dirtigo, but it was a wonderful climb with interesting holds. In contrast, Wimpy-Gilman (5.3 ***), which had been specifically recommended by several people, was almost not worth doing. It's basically clinging to an arete and walking along the ridge to an anchor: I felt like it was using up my lifetime store of exposure without being interesting. However, the same anchor can be used to climb Preppy's Crack, which is a 5.7+ with no stars that's still more fun.
The old guys had moved on to a 5.6 * around the corner and since their beta had been so good, we followed. It was a perfect end to our weekend. Rainbow started with a scramble and had some slightly overhanging sections: I clipped the bolt before and found myself saying the same mantra I do on overhanging routes at the gym. But every time I couldn't figure it out, I reached around and found some hold that was good enough to get me to the next section. By the time Jon finished cleaning the anchor, it was time to go.
All in all, we had a wonderful weekend and now I understand why club members go there every year; I'm kinda bummed they go over Memorial Day or I'd be joining them.
The most perfect cap to the weekend though was chatting with GMac when I got home. He'd lent me the guidebook and wanted to hear how things had gone. We talked about how my climbing is progressing and he talked me out of hiring a guide later this month. He asked me why I wanted to hire the super-guide and talking to him, I realized my leading numbers are close enough to my climbing skill. He told me my gear placements are fine, that I just need to get out climbing more. Which would be more interesting if Gunks rocks were as awesome as Rumney rocks.
We had a kinda slow start on Sat: on our way to Jimmy Cliff, a guy who was giving us directions commented 10 people had already passed headed for the same section. When we got there, we duly took our place on line for Clip a Dee Doo Dah, a 5.3 that GMac offered to let me lead during our aborted trip to NH last year. It's considered a 3-star classic, but now I see why GMac told me not to take Dr. Froshling on it. It's slab climbing, very similar to what I climbed in the 'dacks last weekend: I raced up it on all fours. Jon's never climbed anywhere with such high friction rock, so he was flummoxed: I assume his son made similar faces the first time he encountered carrots or succotash.
We were planning to do Lady & The Tramp (5.4 *) next, but the party ahead of us was so slow, I spent 20min waiting at the 5th bolt, watching 3 people climb the second pitch of Clip a Dee Doo Dah before anyone on Lady & The Tramp had started their second pitch. I was so annoyed - and so horrified - as Jon came up, I pointed out a textbook mistake in their anchor. I still have no idea what the fuck they were doing with their rappel.
After that, we rushed to the next section of cliff to get away. There was a clump of three moderate climbs, so we hopped on Piece of Cake (5.5 *). The asshat Canadians turned up and were so asshattish, the party on Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten (5.6 *) wordlessly agreed to trade climbs with us so we could avoid interacting with them.
Instead of waiting for the asshats to finish the nearby 5.7+, we headed further down the cliff to a climb someone from my club recommended, Nuthatch (5.7 *). It was one of the coolest climbs I've ever led. An initial slab I made more interesting by doing one handed (bringing someone the helmet he left next to my pack) and then an open book just narrow enough to chimney. I don't know why I loved it so much more than last weekend's chimney. There were all sorts of places to put a small finger or edge a little toe; there were stemming AND chimneying and the fun of transitioning; but there was also a place to clip a bolt every time I got nervous about falling. Awesomesauce. I had no idea how Jon was going to climb it, since his fingers are larger than mine, but apparently he could just reach for the next super hold. I loved that climb so much, I told Jon not to clean the anchor, instead climbing it one last time on top rope.
Considering how achy and sore we were an hour later, it's just as well we stopped there. Driving back to our motel, we drove past a seafood place that looked busy. It was well worth waiting 20mins with no drinks: the clam chowder was delicious, as was the fried shrimp and bbq ribs. And then we got to our motel just as Dr. Froshling was pulling up. YAAY!
Dr. Froshling later commented that if we'd slept in, we might've been able to climb Sunday. I'm afraid she's right. As it was, when we got to the trailhead, it was starting to rain so hard, I couldn't imagine climbing. We decamped to the motel, where we discovered all the fun things to do in the area, including the world's largest arcade. I can't believe Dr. Froshling still hasn't been outdoor climbing, but it was totally worth it to find out Jon is a pinball fiend. I should've guessed that someone who will cook the same thing over and over might be willing to do the same with Tempest. Meanwhile, Dr. Froshling noted that the random games I barely remembered and wouldn't leave - Bank Panic and Tapper - were about multi-tasking. As far as we can tell, she just likes button-mashing.
I also really liked that we got to chat in the car on the way to the nearby outlet mall. No one seemed particularly surprised when I whipped out my list of things I need to buy, which is how I ended up finally getting a new leather jacket. There weren't many high end stores, but we wandered into Polo Ralph Lauren. Dr. Froshling insisted I try on a dress. The sleeves are long and I'm still not sure what I'll use it for, other than winter dates with Julian, but I liked the leather detailing -- and it fit like a dream. We also searched the entire Nike store and found only one pair of shorts with large pockets. It wasn't in the running section and I'm worried that it will chafe during a long run, but it was $15 and hugs my curves so tightly, Jon said he'd follow me anywhere in them. Awww.
We ended up at a restaurant called Onions. The service was haphazard, but they had a bottle of Stag's Leap Artemis for less than I was expecting and I bet George Chancellor's inn was a lot like it, back in the day. And then Dr. Froshling had to go home *sniffles*
Next day, we set out with the same itinerary as the day before. When we got to the Venus Wall, there were a pair of old guys climbing a 5.1. Perhaps it was self-interest that they talked us into climbing the 5.2 * next to them, Dirtigo, but it was a wonderful climb with interesting holds. In contrast, Wimpy-Gilman (5.3 ***), which had been specifically recommended by several people, was almost not worth doing. It's basically clinging to an arete and walking along the ridge to an anchor: I felt like it was using up my lifetime store of exposure without being interesting. However, the same anchor can be used to climb Preppy's Crack, which is a 5.7+ with no stars that's still more fun.
The old guys had moved on to a 5.6 * around the corner and since their beta had been so good, we followed. It was a perfect end to our weekend. Rainbow started with a scramble and had some slightly overhanging sections: I clipped the bolt before and found myself saying the same mantra I do on overhanging routes at the gym. But every time I couldn't figure it out, I reached around and found some hold that was good enough to get me to the next section. By the time Jon finished cleaning the anchor, it was time to go.
All in all, we had a wonderful weekend and now I understand why club members go there every year; I'm kinda bummed they go over Memorial Day or I'd be joining them.
The most perfect cap to the weekend though was chatting with GMac when I got home. He'd lent me the guidebook and wanted to hear how things had gone. We talked about how my climbing is progressing and he talked me out of hiring a guide later this month. He asked me why I wanted to hire the super-guide and talking to him, I realized my leading numbers are close enough to my climbing skill. He told me my gear placements are fine, that I just need to get out climbing more. Which would be more interesting if Gunks rocks were as awesome as Rumney rocks.