Everything worked out this weekend
I just wanted to go to bed Fri night, but instead went to the gym for a PT God workout. I'm still weaker than I expect, but it was fun watching three of the trainers fooling around: they were betting on the old one's ability to press x and the other one is apparently a cardio king and there's something about if the Yankees won this wknd. Fun times. I need to get back in shape enough to bet on it.
I finished a quarter of what I wanted on Sat, which is extra-depressing since half the list was holdovers from last weekend. *sighs* By staying up until 1 (and getting up at 5), I was able to do all my shredding, after going to Staples to buy a new one, along with other filing supplies.
Going through all my health-related records of the past 10 years, I discovered that August after I graduated, I went for a body-composition test at a spa - and they told me to lose 12-20lbs. At the time, I weighed 1-3lbs less than I currently do. (I haven't weighed myself in months, and don't plan to start now.) what the fucking fuck? Granted, at the time I had 34% body fat, but still.
In other wtf news, I also found out I've apparently been seeing my primary care physician once a year, mostly to get diamox and pt prescriptions. And every time he tests my cholesterol and every year it's the same, so consistently that I wonder if his thingee is broken. And yet... there was a year when he told me it was too high and he wanted me to come back for tests. I think not.
In a very last minute sort of way, I ended up seeing RED with a friend. I'm so glad I took StMac's advice to see it. It's very well made, with romance and comedy and guns, car chases, and explosions. I think it'd be a perfect date movie. And afterward, we had caramel milkshakes from Shake Shack and I was gratified that my companion agreed that they are so good, it's better not to remember they exist.
While climbing Sun, I thought of what my therapist (among others) has been trying to tell me, about not getting so hung up on details and just let things happen. We top-roped 7 different climbs near the beginning of the carriage road and every time I finished one, I couldn't remember how I'd done it to guide the next climber.
First JBeau set Herdie Gerdie (5.8) and Dirty Gerdie (5.8+ *). I don't remember when I did one of those before and I'm too lazy to look it up, but as far as I'm concerned, I never need to do either again. There were a lot of times where, to make the move, I'd have to shift all my weight to the side so I could get enough leverage to stand up on a bent leg, or get up on a mantle. In retrospect, I wonder if I spent more time working on pistols if I could do them. bleh.
Edit: Apparently I did them at the beginning of the summer, so apparently I've improved a lot. Which is, uh, good, considering how much time I've spent climbing.
NRod insisted we do Retribution (5.10b ***) again, as always. I thought after doing it the last time that I'd be able to do it well, but I hung on the rope quite a bit and I still feel like the way I grab the arete to get through the roof is cheating. I wasn't particularly tired on the roof and I could see what moves I needed to make - I just couldn't do them :( This seems like the sort of thing I call "stupidity" and my climbing coach calls not having the muscle memory (or confidence in my strength) to do it.
Next to it is a climb called Retro-bunny - JBeau says it's a 5.9, although the guidebook claims it's a 5.10d. I think the 10d part is from the roof that JBeau claims isn't part of the climb. If someone told me it was a 5.7 or 5.8, I'd believe that too, bc it was tricksy in ways that are sometimes a function of moving in unfamiliar ways, rather than too hard ways. I remember nothing of Red Cabbage (5.9- *).
I was the first to tackle Nosedive (5.10b ***). I loved it. It felt challenging from the ground, but not in a crux-on-the-bottom way. When I got to the crux, it was something that required muscling through - and then you have to layback to get to the top. The trick to the climb is that it has periodic rests, which you should absolutely take so as to have the energy for the next section: the end is one long burst of power. I had a blast, although I'm very glad I was on top-rope and so it's not like I had an impatient leader waiting for me. I could see making this my every-time-I-go-climbing project. Guru couldn't quite get past the crux and JBeau finally let NRod down after the third time she whined she wanted to come down. This is so not her type of climbing and I think the Gerdies sapped her confidence.
I thought about letting that be my final, ego-boosting end, but JBeau had Red Cabbage Right (5.10b *) set up... I was pretty tired and it felt muscley: there were several places where I had to screw up my determination. I had multiple semi-dynamic moves bc no way was I going to fall and have to climb that bit again. JBeau's best piece of beta was one section where he said, "Y'know where your left foot is? That's a right foot hold." And it was - putting the right foot there made it possible for me to get my balance and move left. The best part of the day though was when JBeau dropped us off at the bus station and said to me, "You're climbing strong: I'd like to put you on the sharp end on some 5.4s and 5.5s, just to see how you handle something on which you might fall." Sweet!
I finished a quarter of what I wanted on Sat, which is extra-depressing since half the list was holdovers from last weekend. *sighs* By staying up until 1 (and getting up at 5), I was able to do all my shredding, after going to Staples to buy a new one, along with other filing supplies.
Going through all my health-related records of the past 10 years, I discovered that August after I graduated, I went for a body-composition test at a spa - and they told me to lose 12-20lbs. At the time, I weighed 1-3lbs less than I currently do. (I haven't weighed myself in months, and don't plan to start now.) what the fucking fuck? Granted, at the time I had 34% body fat, but still.
In other wtf news, I also found out I've apparently been seeing my primary care physician once a year, mostly to get diamox and pt prescriptions. And every time he tests my cholesterol and every year it's the same, so consistently that I wonder if his thingee is broken. And yet... there was a year when he told me it was too high and he wanted me to come back for tests. I think not.
In a very last minute sort of way, I ended up seeing RED with a friend. I'm so glad I took StMac's advice to see it. It's very well made, with romance and comedy and guns, car chases, and explosions. I think it'd be a perfect date movie. And afterward, we had caramel milkshakes from Shake Shack and I was gratified that my companion agreed that they are so good, it's better not to remember they exist.
While climbing Sun, I thought of what my therapist (among others) has been trying to tell me, about not getting so hung up on details and just let things happen. We top-roped 7 different climbs near the beginning of the carriage road and every time I finished one, I couldn't remember how I'd done it to guide the next climber.
First JBeau set Herdie Gerdie (5.8) and Dirty Gerdie (5.8+ *). I don't remember when I did one of those before and I'm too lazy to look it up, but as far as I'm concerned, I never need to do either again. There were a lot of times where, to make the move, I'd have to shift all my weight to the side so I could get enough leverage to stand up on a bent leg, or get up on a mantle. In retrospect, I wonder if I spent more time working on pistols if I could do them. bleh.
Edit: Apparently I did them at the beginning of the summer, so apparently I've improved a lot. Which is, uh, good, considering how much time I've spent climbing.
NRod insisted we do Retribution (5.10b ***) again, as always. I thought after doing it the last time that I'd be able to do it well, but I hung on the rope quite a bit and I still feel like the way I grab the arete to get through the roof is cheating. I wasn't particularly tired on the roof and I could see what moves I needed to make - I just couldn't do them :( This seems like the sort of thing I call "stupidity" and my climbing coach calls not having the muscle memory (or confidence in my strength) to do it.
Next to it is a climb called Retro-bunny - JBeau says it's a 5.9, although the guidebook claims it's a 5.10d. I think the 10d part is from the roof that JBeau claims isn't part of the climb. If someone told me it was a 5.7 or 5.8, I'd believe that too, bc it was tricksy in ways that are sometimes a function of moving in unfamiliar ways, rather than too hard ways. I remember nothing of Red Cabbage (5.9- *).
I was the first to tackle Nosedive (5.10b ***). I loved it. It felt challenging from the ground, but not in a crux-on-the-bottom way. When I got to the crux, it was something that required muscling through - and then you have to layback to get to the top. The trick to the climb is that it has periodic rests, which you should absolutely take so as to have the energy for the next section: the end is one long burst of power. I had a blast, although I'm very glad I was on top-rope and so it's not like I had an impatient leader waiting for me. I could see making this my every-time-I-go-climbing project. Guru couldn't quite get past the crux and JBeau finally let NRod down after the third time she whined she wanted to come down. This is so not her type of climbing and I think the Gerdies sapped her confidence.
I thought about letting that be my final, ego-boosting end, but JBeau had Red Cabbage Right (5.10b *) set up... I was pretty tired and it felt muscley: there were several places where I had to screw up my determination. I had multiple semi-dynamic moves bc no way was I going to fall and have to climb that bit again. JBeau's best piece of beta was one section where he said, "Y'know where your left foot is? That's a right foot hold." And it was - putting the right foot there made it possible for me to get my balance and move left. The best part of the day though was when JBeau dropped us off at the bus station and said to me, "You're climbing strong: I'd like to put you on the sharp end on some 5.4s and 5.5s, just to see how you handle something on which you might fall." Sweet!