Finished Seam Tutorial: Finishing seams in a lined garment
Recently, I attended The Original Sewing and Quilt Expo in Baltimore and attended a class where the instructor demonstrated a way to pre-sew each individual piece from a pattern together with its lining piece, in order to have finished seams. It's a cool technique and but hard to describe with words, so I promised some folks I'd do a quick tutorial.
Before I start, I should introduce the major players. Here is my 1925 Singer 99--previously featured in this blog in handcrank form, but last summer I scored a 3/4 sized treadle table (which isn't really 3/4, but describes the size sewing machine that will fit in it). Barney (the 99) is really enjoying life as a treadle, but he was born to sew, so it was a no brainer :) Also pictured is my supervisor, Trini.
Now to get started, suppose you wanted to make a very simple lined skirt with an elastic waistband (I've reduced the size of the pieces for the purposes of the tutorial)_. the top and bottom seams to the skirt pieces would be finished when you rolled over those edges (the top for the elastic waistband, the bottom for the hem. The two side seams would be raw edges inside the lining, but installing the lining would be done after sewing the outside facing pieces of fabric. This method shows how to make each piece of fabric and its lining as one piece of fabric before sewing the garment together as usual.
So here we have the two outside facing pieces of fabric along with their lining pieces. Note that the lining pieces are 5/8" wider than the other pieces. Take one piece of the skirt fabric and one of the lining. Put them together with right sides facing in. Sew a 1/4" seam allowance with raw edges matching.
Note that when sewn together, the lining piece will not lie flat.
Turn the pieces right sides out and iron the skirt fabric completely flat, edge to edge. This will result in the lining fabric wrapping around the raw edge of the skirt fabric.
Now sew the pieces together as normal, with the skirt fabric pieces rights sides together and the lined side facing out.
Press the seam open, sew the other side seam, and there you have it. A lined skirt, with the side seams already finished by the lining. Now it's ready for the waistband and the hem.
Before I start, I should introduce the major players. Here is my 1925 Singer 99--previously featured in this blog in handcrank form, but last summer I scored a 3/4 sized treadle table (which isn't really 3/4, but describes the size sewing machine that will fit in it). Barney (the 99) is really enjoying life as a treadle, but he was born to sew, so it was a no brainer :) Also pictured is my supervisor, Trini.
Now to get started, suppose you wanted to make a very simple lined skirt with an elastic waistband (I've reduced the size of the pieces for the purposes of the tutorial)_. the top and bottom seams to the skirt pieces would be finished when you rolled over those edges (the top for the elastic waistband, the bottom for the hem. The two side seams would be raw edges inside the lining, but installing the lining would be done after sewing the outside facing pieces of fabric. This method shows how to make each piece of fabric and its lining as one piece of fabric before sewing the garment together as usual.
So here we have the two outside facing pieces of fabric along with their lining pieces. Note that the lining pieces are 5/8" wider than the other pieces. Take one piece of the skirt fabric and one of the lining. Put them together with right sides facing in. Sew a 1/4" seam allowance with raw edges matching.
Note that when sewn together, the lining piece will not lie flat.
Turn the pieces right sides out and iron the skirt fabric completely flat, edge to edge. This will result in the lining fabric wrapping around the raw edge of the skirt fabric.
Now sew the pieces together as normal, with the skirt fabric pieces rights sides together and the lined side facing out.
Press the seam open, sew the other side seam, and there you have it. A lined skirt, with the side seams already finished by the lining. Now it's ready for the waistband and the hem.