Sep 05, 2004 10:15
Went down to hatteras again with channing miller, pat frisc, rob newman, jessie lance, and jake horton.
left late.
like around 11 30.
got down to Hatteras Village around 3 30.
checked the waves.
so good.
got our boardsand ran down to the beach.
i used one of robs boards cuz mine is broken.
it was 5 foot 6 inches pill fish.
fun ass board.
paddled out to the inside break.
you would just drop into like a head high shore break and it just wedges up and gives you the best barrol.
almost a stand up barrol.
you have to pump out of the barol before it closes out on you and just jump out the back.
so fun.
I got a couple of barols on the inside than we paddled out to the outside break.
the outside kinda reminded me of the hatteras section in the decline where they were on an outer reef or something, and it was a left and they would just drop in and get barrols.
it kinda was liek that except it wasnt barroling as much, but i saw pat and rob just drop in to an over head wave easily and just get straight shaked in a stand up baroled and come out.
the waves were to good to explain so im gonna stop trying to describe it.
but it was the best surf ive ever ridden.