Nonna's pizza

Aug 04, 2010 13:59



I just rediscovered my grandmother's recipe for Sicilian pizza,

old-country style

something you'll never find in an American pizzeria

a unique old-world taste

I had not tasted

since she died 20 years ago.

When I bit into it, childhood among my big Sicilian extended family flooded back to life

Nonna always had platters heaped with her pizza whenever we were there

A sudden recovery of my childhood

and our vibrant ethnic life

I'd thought was long lost

Cooking reconnects me to my foremothers

especially to her, who I learned from directly

whose life bridged the two continents

When I had first begun to study

Italian language and Italian cuisine

at the age of 12

I overheard my father tell a coarse joke

at the expense of women like his mother

that the secret of true Italian cooking

is the mama dripping sweat as she works

and seasoning the pot with it

Crude and sexist, yes,

but also revealing a certain truth

about how hard moms work for their families

and those with big families like theirs

worked all the harder

As I was making Nonna's pizza again

writing the recipe in my mind as I went along

I thought: Seven cloves of garlic…

My parents, my four sisters, and I number seven

I put in my recipe the number seven

in commemoration of our family bond

all the memories we shared

all the pain and love from the years

Now I'm the Sicilian grandma

seasoning her cooking

with her tears

Ti amo, Nonna

ancestor, crone, womanhood, food, sicily, family, writing

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