An American In Italy: May 2014: Day 8...
5/15/14: Naples is intimidating, I must admit. Big, sprawling, and gritty, but also beautiful.
The archaeological museum was amazing. We concentrated on the Herculaneum and Pompeii exhibits and a special exhibition of erotic Pompeiian art. Our guide, Fabrizio, had serious art history knowledge and could tell us more than just "hurr hurr, big phallus, hurr hur!" (Not to say that there wasn't a lot of nudging and winking and raunchy jokes getting tossed around. ;-D We noticed that although there were plenty of naked females, their bodies were reasonably proportioned and true to life. The naked males... not so much. Lotta wishful thinking going on!) The mosaics were definitely my favorite, though in each gallery - frescoes, artifacts, and mosaics, I saw works that I've seen in books and documentaries, and was wowed by all the things I haven't seen before.
After the museum, we drove out to the west side of town over the ancient Campi Flegrei caldera overlooking Pozzuoli and numerous volcanic hills that surround it. The view of the Bay and Vesuvius across to Sorrento is truly incredible there. One of my favorite sights was an enormous sailboat, three big sails, out on the water. I got great pictures of that day.
From there, we drove down to the Castello Nuovo and the royal palace and opera house. We left the bus at the Umberto Gallery, where we said farewell to Fabrizio and GP led us through the chaotic streets to the pedestrians only shops and restaurants. By then, Sabrina and I were starved and rather run down. Rather than pursue the famous Neopolitan pizza, we opted for Rosita, a pretty, sit-down restaurant near the meeting point. I had lemon shrimp risotto - yum! - and Sabrina had grilled king prawns. One detail of note: shrimp don't get shelled in Italy. They were looking at me! She had as much work on those beasties as little lobsters. It was a leisurely lunch followed by hazelnut coffee for Sabrina at Gabrino's across the street, and I had a Nutella-filled spogliatella at another little pasticceria across the street. Such love! I also tasted Sabrina's coffee, expecting it to kill me, but it was actually good. Strong, but sweet enough for me.
We drove back around the Bay under the shadow of Vesuvius in glorious weather. Even so, several days of pre-dawn wakeups got to me, and I actually fell asleep on the bus! At the hotel, I planned to do some laundry and a little more shopping - nope. Zzzz... But at least by our farewell meeting in the evening, I'd rested up and had my energy back for the final farewell dinner with the girls. Lolita had searched out Trattoria da Emilia, which had rave reviews on Yelp and came recommended by Rick Steves. Seemed like a short walk down to Marina Grande - we just took the scenic (and winding) route. Down a winding narrow road and multiple map checks, we found it on the beach.
Good rec! It's a small, pretty, family owned place since 1947 - and the staff had no idea they have rave reviews on Yelp. I had cheese ravioli pomodoro. So much simpler and better than the overspiced monstrosities that pass for ravioli in the US. The girls had fried calamari and cheese-tomato eggplant. Neither is my favorite food, but I tasted both and they were damn good.
From the restaurant, we escorted Sabrina to the theater in the square for her Sorrento Musical excursion. On the long and winding road (now uphill) we encountered no less than three couples who asked if this was the way to Trattoria da Emilia. We gave directions and assured all that it was worth the walk. At the top of the hill: gattini di Sorrento! Four young kittehs having supper at someone's Trattoria di Gatti! Teh cutes! We almost got taken out by several scooters (the stereotypes about Italian driving? All true) but delivered Sabrina to the theater on time, and Lolita and I strolled back to Bougainvillea Gelateria for me to try the most popular gelato in Sorrento.
I opted for a swanky sundae, which allowed me to sample four different flavors: chocolate regular, chocolate mousse, "dark dark" chocolate, and chocolate chip, buried in whipped cream, chocolate sauce, and hazelnuts. No wonder the spoon was shaped like a shovel!
Lolita asked if I wanted to do anymore shopping on the walk back. I said nah, think I've got everything I need and all the gifts I want - looked in a window of a shop we were passing AND.... proverbial tire screech! Ended up buying a couple more exquisite, hand-made local-made items from an adorable elderly couple who I fear were actually under-pricing their work. As for what it was, you'll have to wait and see, since they were gifts! ;-D
Back at the hotel, Lolita and I said our farewells, as she journeys on to Sicily. Tomorrow (at the crack of dawn, again) back to Rome!
The archaeological museum was amazing. We concentrated on the Herculaneum and Pompeii exhibits and a special exhibition of erotic Pompeiian art. Our guide, Fabrizio, had serious art history knowledge and could tell us more than just "hurr hurr, big phallus, hurr hur!" (Not to say that there wasn't a lot of nudging and winking and raunchy jokes getting tossed around. ;-D We noticed that although there were plenty of naked females, their bodies were reasonably proportioned and true to life. The naked males... not so much. Lotta wishful thinking going on!) The mosaics were definitely my favorite, though in each gallery - frescoes, artifacts, and mosaics, I saw works that I've seen in books and documentaries, and was wowed by all the things I haven't seen before.
After the museum, we drove out to the west side of town over the ancient Campi Flegrei caldera overlooking Pozzuoli and numerous volcanic hills that surround it. The view of the Bay and Vesuvius across to Sorrento is truly incredible there. One of my favorite sights was an enormous sailboat, three big sails, out on the water. I got great pictures of that day.
From there, we drove down to the Castello Nuovo and the royal palace and opera house. We left the bus at the Umberto Gallery, where we said farewell to Fabrizio and GP led us through the chaotic streets to the pedestrians only shops and restaurants. By then, Sabrina and I were starved and rather run down. Rather than pursue the famous Neopolitan pizza, we opted for Rosita, a pretty, sit-down restaurant near the meeting point. I had lemon shrimp risotto - yum! - and Sabrina had grilled king prawns. One detail of note: shrimp don't get shelled in Italy. They were looking at me! She had as much work on those beasties as little lobsters. It was a leisurely lunch followed by hazelnut coffee for Sabrina at Gabrino's across the street, and I had a Nutella-filled spogliatella at another little pasticceria across the street. Such love! I also tasted Sabrina's coffee, expecting it to kill me, but it was actually good. Strong, but sweet enough for me.
We drove back around the Bay under the shadow of Vesuvius in glorious weather. Even so, several days of pre-dawn wakeups got to me, and I actually fell asleep on the bus! At the hotel, I planned to do some laundry and a little more shopping - nope. Zzzz... But at least by our farewell meeting in the evening, I'd rested up and had my energy back for the final farewell dinner with the girls. Lolita had searched out Trattoria da Emilia, which had rave reviews on Yelp and came recommended by Rick Steves. Seemed like a short walk down to Marina Grande - we just took the scenic (and winding) route. Down a winding narrow road and multiple map checks, we found it on the beach.
Good rec! It's a small, pretty, family owned place since 1947 - and the staff had no idea they have rave reviews on Yelp. I had cheese ravioli pomodoro. So much simpler and better than the overspiced monstrosities that pass for ravioli in the US. The girls had fried calamari and cheese-tomato eggplant. Neither is my favorite food, but I tasted both and they were damn good.
From the restaurant, we escorted Sabrina to the theater in the square for her Sorrento Musical excursion. On the long and winding road (now uphill) we encountered no less than three couples who asked if this was the way to Trattoria da Emilia. We gave directions and assured all that it was worth the walk. At the top of the hill: gattini di Sorrento! Four young kittehs having supper at someone's Trattoria di Gatti! Teh cutes! We almost got taken out by several scooters (the stereotypes about Italian driving? All true) but delivered Sabrina to the theater on time, and Lolita and I strolled back to Bougainvillea Gelateria for me to try the most popular gelato in Sorrento.
I opted for a swanky sundae, which allowed me to sample four different flavors: chocolate regular, chocolate mousse, "dark dark" chocolate, and chocolate chip, buried in whipped cream, chocolate sauce, and hazelnuts. No wonder the spoon was shaped like a shovel!
Lolita asked if I wanted to do anymore shopping on the walk back. I said nah, think I've got everything I need and all the gifts I want - looked in a window of a shop we were passing AND.... proverbial tire screech! Ended up buying a couple more exquisite, hand-made local-made items from an adorable elderly couple who I fear were actually under-pricing their work. As for what it was, you'll have to wait and see, since they were gifts! ;-D
Back at the hotel, Lolita and I said our farewells, as she journeys on to Sicily. Tomorrow (at the crack of dawn, again) back to Rome!