Translation Augsburg Tailor's Text 1516 part 7 (Final)
das ist ain frantzösischer
Mant(e)l da(r) zw kompt 7 elen(n) 4 f' (fierteil?) vnd vmb den obere(n)
iii thayll vnd ele(n) / das t' (teil?) ist auff geworff'(en)
this is a French
cloak there to comes 7 ells 4 quarters and around the top
third part and ell / the piece is on the warp
vnd das ist ain
frawe(n) rock von(n) 8 stück da(r)zw geyt man(n) 10 elen(n) vnd
müss 3 ele(n) lang sein vnd schneyd das t'(tuch) ermitt'(el) von
ain and(er) vnd legs nach dem stück 1 ele(n) lang dy vod(er)
gstalt / 3 ele(n) lang vnd 1 elen(n) in den auffschlag
so bleybt er noch ii ele(n) lang vnd 1 f' (fierteil) jetz ist das t'(teil) 3
ele(n) lang komme(n) 3 ele(n) zu(m) rock / vnd die ii ele(n)
zu(m) ermel als döppel vnd zu(m) stössen 2 ele(n) lang, 5/8
gehört auffs hind thayl gege(n) uber / so ist das in der
seytte(n) vnd zweische(n) örbel gand. ii stoss heraüss
gehörendt dra(n) / das me(r)tayll an örbel sollen nach
der schlem(m) sein 2 elen 1 f' (fierteil) / der örbel nach der
fälen recht ii elen(n) 3/8 geytt sich selb / die stöss
ii elen lang In syetten / Anno du(mini) 1516
and this is a
woman's gown from 8 pieces thereto this goes 10 ells and
(it) must be three ells long and cut the cloth apart in its
middle and lay according to the piece 1 ell long the front
shap / 3 ells long and 1 ell in the reverse
so remains 2 ells and 1 quarter length now is the piece to come
3 ells long for the gown / and the 2 ells for
the sleeves as doubled and to the gores 2 ells long and 5/8
belongs for the back piece going over / so that it in
sides and between the armholes go. 2 gores out of this
to this belong / the more part to the armhole should be
at a slant 2 ells and 1 quarter / the sleeves by the
right cutout 2 ells 3/8 go the same / the gores
2 ells long in the side / Anno Domini 1516
It seems clear to me that the 8 piece gown is a gored gown, and perhaps the aufschlagen (reverse/lapel) might be the pleated section in the "Dürer/hausbuch" type gowns.
For me this was a rather exciting test of my skill and I have some confidence in the results. Perhaps the hardest part, outside of trying to understand the stream of pattern cutting consciousness, were the considerable number of abbreviations. As the document continued the number of abbreviations continued. I checked out a book "Leseschussel zu unserer alten Schrift" by Paul Arnold Grun (1935) that contained a sizable list of medieval and renaissance area letters and abbreviations. Sadly the most frequent abbreviation, which looked something like a f or s ending up being a contraction mark for something the reader should have known. I think in the cases here, some started with f next to measurements - that could be fierteil (quarter) or even fuß (foot), although I did not see a reference to foot spelled out in the document in other places as I did fierteil. The other common abbreviation was a t and the mark. Sometimes it seemed clear to be tuch (cloth) as it would be something a weaver or tailor could easily have abbreviated and be understood. Other times it seemed to point to perhaps a pattern piece so I chose teil (spelled thayll elsewhere) meaning piece. I couldn't guarantee that it is right, but it is my best guess. When I have guessed or supplied characters and words not evident, I have placed them in parentheses.
I think these patterns could be worked out by an enterprising soul :) So far I can find that the ell measurement of Augsburg was 24 inches in the 18th/19th century.
Mant(e)l da(r) zw kompt 7 elen(n) 4 f' (fierteil?) vnd vmb den obere(n)
iii thayll vnd ele(n) / das t' (teil?) ist auff geworff'(en)
this is a French
cloak there to comes 7 ells 4 quarters and around the top
third part and ell / the piece is on the warp
vnd das ist ain
frawe(n) rock von(n) 8 stück da(r)zw geyt man(n) 10 elen(n) vnd
müss 3 ele(n) lang sein vnd schneyd das t'(tuch) ermitt'(el) von
ain and(er) vnd legs nach dem stück 1 ele(n) lang dy vod(er)
gstalt / 3 ele(n) lang vnd 1 elen(n) in den auffschlag
so bleybt er noch ii ele(n) lang vnd 1 f' (fierteil) jetz ist das t'(teil) 3
ele(n) lang komme(n) 3 ele(n) zu(m) rock / vnd die ii ele(n)
zu(m) ermel als döppel vnd zu(m) stössen 2 ele(n) lang, 5/8
gehört auffs hind thayl gege(n) uber / so ist das in der
seytte(n) vnd zweische(n) örbel gand. ii stoss heraüss
gehörendt dra(n) / das me(r)tayll an örbel sollen nach
der schlem(m) sein 2 elen 1 f' (fierteil) / der örbel nach der
fälen recht ii elen(n) 3/8 geytt sich selb / die stöss
ii elen lang In syetten / Anno du(mini) 1516
and this is a
woman's gown from 8 pieces thereto this goes 10 ells and
(it) must be three ells long and cut the cloth apart in its
middle and lay according to the piece 1 ell long the front
shap / 3 ells long and 1 ell in the reverse
so remains 2 ells and 1 quarter length now is the piece to come
3 ells long for the gown / and the 2 ells for
the sleeves as doubled and to the gores 2 ells long and 5/8
belongs for the back piece going over / so that it in
sides and between the armholes go. 2 gores out of this
to this belong / the more part to the armhole should be
at a slant 2 ells and 1 quarter / the sleeves by the
right cutout 2 ells 3/8 go the same / the gores
2 ells long in the side / Anno Domini 1516
It seems clear to me that the 8 piece gown is a gored gown, and perhaps the aufschlagen (reverse/lapel) might be the pleated section in the "Dürer/hausbuch" type gowns.
For me this was a rather exciting test of my skill and I have some confidence in the results. Perhaps the hardest part, outside of trying to understand the stream of pattern cutting consciousness, were the considerable number of abbreviations. As the document continued the number of abbreviations continued. I checked out a book "Leseschussel zu unserer alten Schrift" by Paul Arnold Grun (1935) that contained a sizable list of medieval and renaissance area letters and abbreviations. Sadly the most frequent abbreviation, which looked something like a f or s ending up being a contraction mark for something the reader should have known. I think in the cases here, some started with f next to measurements - that could be fierteil (quarter) or even fuß (foot), although I did not see a reference to foot spelled out in the document in other places as I did fierteil. The other common abbreviation was a t and the mark. Sometimes it seemed clear to be tuch (cloth) as it would be something a weaver or tailor could easily have abbreviated and be understood. Other times it seemed to point to perhaps a pattern piece so I chose teil (spelled thayll elsewhere) meaning piece. I couldn't guarantee that it is right, but it is my best guess. When I have guessed or supplied characters and words not evident, I have placed them in parentheses.
I think these patterns could be worked out by an enterprising soul :) So far I can find that the ell measurement of Augsburg was 24 inches in the 18th/19th century.