Könighofen Tailor's Exam Part Five (The end)
Some interesting bits in here -
On women's and maid's clothing
Question: Item how much for a fitted bodice (leiblein)
Velvet? Answer: one ell, and a half quarter (1/8) according to design.
Atlas? Answer: one ell according to lay out.
Taffeta? Answer: one and one quarter ell according to lay out.
Borschat? Answer: one ell according to lay out.
Question: how much is required for a woman's undergown
Atlas? Answer: 14 ells
Taffeta? Answer: 16 ells
Borschat? Answer: 14 ells
Arlas? Answer: 12 ells
Cloth of London? Answer: 5 ells 7 quarters long 12 ells wide
Dutch cloth? Answer: 6 ells in above given length and width
Combed wool cloth? Answer: 7 ell long and wide
Question: Item how much for such a gown to trim it with 3 borders
Cloth of London? Answer: One and a half ell according to layout.
Borschat? Answer: four halves of an ell according to layout.
Arlas? Answer: Three ells according to layout.
Question: How much for a trim around such a gown, that is a quarter (ell) high [i.e. above the hem], and over the finger's width (schreckle daumen) wide.
London cloth and the like? Answer: 6 halves of an ell according to lay out.
Rastatt, Limburg cloth and the like? Answer: 7 halves of an ell according to lay out.
Combed wool cloth? Answer: 8 halves of an ell according to lay out.
Item if one wants, so after the above one may ask about bodies (müdern), short and long, what for each the occasion and purpose is to be worn, rather than to ask about all the pieces, it would be long and tedious.
of required pieces - the fourth part of the materials: on pile and a number of of the necessary things
Question: Item to judge where to apply the material to be used and the where the pattern belongs on each part of the clothing, be it from gold or silver, velvet or silk fabric,
gold and silver pieces and cloth? Answer: the pattern (blumen) and the leaves all on the top of the gown and the sleeves.
velvet? Answer: all the same [as above]
Damask and the like? Answer: all for the bottom part of the gown and trimming.
Question: What is to be done if the silk trim is very frayed?
Answer: One must size (beleimen) [glue/lime/size] it on the inner side.
Question: On the nap of woolen cloth: which way does the nap go towards on such shorn woolen cloth on a garment?
On a gown, where it is whatever style you like? Answer: on the front part and the sleeves downward and on the back part upwards.
On hose and hoods? Answer: All upwards.
On cloaks, be they for men or women? Answer: Forward side down, and on the behind upwards.
For the servants, leather jerkins (leder koller) are quite common, and if the candidate does not have much orientation to this issue, however it would be well that one knows how to design such jerkins.
Now after asking all these before given questions to the candidate, and he responded with sufficient standing with answers and designs, so should the Headmaster see to him such that his craft is openly notarized and is allowed customers and to h further do such trade with him after the guild rights, for which he shall be accepted composed in a suitable letter.
Where the candidate did not pass, as heard and deserved, so then should the testing master let the Headmaster know of the decision of him so that he can direct himself accordingly.
On women's and maid's clothing
Question: Item how much for a fitted bodice (leiblein)
Velvet? Answer: one ell, and a half quarter (1/8) according to design.
Atlas? Answer: one ell according to lay out.
Taffeta? Answer: one and one quarter ell according to lay out.
Borschat? Answer: one ell according to lay out.
Question: how much is required for a woman's undergown
Atlas? Answer: 14 ells
Taffeta? Answer: 16 ells
Borschat? Answer: 14 ells
Arlas? Answer: 12 ells
Cloth of London? Answer: 5 ells 7 quarters long 12 ells wide
Dutch cloth? Answer: 6 ells in above given length and width
Combed wool cloth? Answer: 7 ell long and wide
Question: Item how much for such a gown to trim it with 3 borders
Cloth of London? Answer: One and a half ell according to layout.
Borschat? Answer: four halves of an ell according to layout.
Arlas? Answer: Three ells according to layout.
Question: How much for a trim around such a gown, that is a quarter (ell) high [i.e. above the hem], and over the finger's width (schreckle daumen) wide.
London cloth and the like? Answer: 6 halves of an ell according to lay out.
Rastatt, Limburg cloth and the like? Answer: 7 halves of an ell according to lay out.
Combed wool cloth? Answer: 8 halves of an ell according to lay out.
Item if one wants, so after the above one may ask about bodies (müdern), short and long, what for each the occasion and purpose is to be worn, rather than to ask about all the pieces, it would be long and tedious.
of required pieces - the fourth part of the materials: on pile and a number of of the necessary things
Question: Item to judge where to apply the material to be used and the where the pattern belongs on each part of the clothing, be it from gold or silver, velvet or silk fabric,
gold and silver pieces and cloth? Answer: the pattern (blumen) and the leaves all on the top of the gown and the sleeves.
velvet? Answer: all the same [as above]
Damask and the like? Answer: all for the bottom part of the gown and trimming.
Question: What is to be done if the silk trim is very frayed?
Answer: One must size (beleimen) [glue/lime/size] it on the inner side.
Question: On the nap of woolen cloth: which way does the nap go towards on such shorn woolen cloth on a garment?
On a gown, where it is whatever style you like? Answer: on the front part and the sleeves downward and on the back part upwards.
On hose and hoods? Answer: All upwards.
On cloaks, be they for men or women? Answer: Forward side down, and on the behind upwards.
For the servants, leather jerkins (leder koller) are quite common, and if the candidate does not have much orientation to this issue, however it would be well that one knows how to design such jerkins.
Now after asking all these before given questions to the candidate, and he responded with sufficient standing with answers and designs, so should the Headmaster see to him such that his craft is openly notarized and is allowed customers and to h further do such trade with him after the guild rights, for which he shall be accepted composed in a suitable letter.
Where the candidate did not pass, as heard and deserved, so then should the testing master let the Headmaster know of the decision of him so that he can direct himself accordingly.