actual costuming content
Now don’t faint, it’s actual costuming content! :P While Mom and I went through the fabric stash today - watch for fabric give away later this week - I was reminded what cool pieces I have waiting in cue to be made. Suddenly I was motivated to sew - yay!
I decided I needed something nice and tactile so I started on the Bleu Jacket. After some more research and scheming I decided to go with something very different than my last Ruffled Jacket. I want something based on the pink trimmed blue jacket from Mary Doering’s collection and the Northern Society of Costume and Textiles pattern. I knew I’d have to change the NSoCT pattern quite a bit so I decided to just drape it, using that (and a 1790s bodice from 18th century Embroidery Techniques) as my reference.
I first traced the old Ruffled Jacket pattern onto my toile fabric for reference. I then took my measurements and stuffed Narcissa to approximate them. Then the draping began. Once I got it to a point where I couldn’t do more on Narcissa (she is only so helpful with the 18th century shape), I took the toile off, pressed the pinned seams and tried it on.
I’m pretty pleased with the back. It needs to be more fitted through the waist but the little peplum looks good. I think it’s a bit long and might need to be a bit wider but I don’t know. Thoughts?
I’m surprised (and a bit dismayed) at how much work the front bodice piece needs. It’s the same bodice I’ve used on all my 18th century things for heavens sake! I expected a bit of taking in (the ruffled jacket IS too big) but this was much more than that. I’ve had to pretty much re-work the whole thing. The armholes will have to be totally redone. *sigh* All in all a good night’s work though. I should un-pin, mark new seams and transfer to toile #2 but it won’t happen tonight. I’m tired and my headache is coming back. *grinds teeth*
I think part of the problem is the stays. I think I really need to work on that new pair before I go any further with this jacket, or any of my 18th century projects for that matter. I just don’t like the way the old ones are fitting or the shape they are now giving me. Bah - back to not being able to do anything without tackling underwear first. I really want to work on pretty! I also don’t know what I want to do with my stays. Do I want to try and correct my issues with these or try a new pattern? I love the Diderot (or did when they were new) but I’m intrigued with the Leloir in my new Cut of Women’s clothes or perhaps a later, like 1790s pair. *ponders*