I spent the morning at the Hospital of St. John and St. James1 in company with Dr Polemsky and Dr Mazzoni, the aids of Prof. Mazzoni who were very courteous and showed me the whole of these institutions and also the details of their surgical practice which from that Italian ....[?] is quite up to the mark.
Lister's treatment assiduously adopted and as a result only one case of
erysipelas, although hosp. is old and its hygiene arrangements are far from perfect. After leaving there visited the
House of Deputies which is a well arranged and handsomely fitted building. The chair of
Garibaldi is taken away and a golden wreath of laurel occupies its place so that no one shall ever sit there again. Had another look at the
Pantheon and saw the monuments of
Raphael and
Victor Emanuel. The sun shining through the open centre of the roof gave the church a warm and pleasant appearance. After lunch
Tadie found me and we went to the
Pal. Colonna whi. contains some good portraits by
Holbein,
Paolo Veronese and
Titian but not much else. Took carriage to Lateran museum2 whi. contains some fine sculptures and exquisite mosaics but nothing great re. pictures. 2nd visit to
St. John's church and then home by
Colosseum wh. satisfactory and looks grander on acquaintance and then to the
Palace of the Caesars wh. impressed me more than anything yet seen with the magnificence of the Roman emperors in their grandeur. There are several of the old buildings of the Republic then of
Augustus and
Sept[imius] Severus and other of the emperors. The stadium basilica and house of
Livia are very disturbing and also the corridor paved with exquisite mosaic in wh.
Caligula was assassinated. On the way home called at church of
Ara Coeli, the
Tarpeian Rock wh. does not now seem very high and the
church of the Jesu in which the
Tenebrae was being given. Heard
Stabat Mater at Cafe Venezia.
1. The hospitals of
San Giovanni in Laterano and
San Giacomo in Augusta were in use at the time of West's visit, but they are on opposite sides of the city, whereas he seems to be talking here about a single hospital of John and James (Giovanni and Giacomo). If anyone can throw any light on the identity of the hospital which he visited, please speak up!
2. Collection now housed in the
Gregorian Profane Museum in the Vatican.