I've never seen a dress with both center front bodice opening *and* a bib front bodice. It's totally unpractical to have both. If that *is* a button, then I don't think there's a CF opening. I see the line you're talking about, though, so I suspect it's a seam. The reason is unknowable, but it could be fabric limitation, particularly if this was recut entirely from an earlier gown. Or, for what it's worth, page 101 in Costume in Detail has a back-opening dress with an extremely low neckline, that yet has a seam all the way down front of bodice and skirt. Also, the drawstring channels seem to thicken slightly at the center front, as if from extra material in a seam allowance, but there's no gap at all.
That said, I think it would be awesome if you did do a center front opening. Just to be different! In that case, you'd want the skirt to be apron front, and separate from the bodice. Probably gathered to a fixed band. Pages 81-82 and 99-100 in Costume in Detail show examples of this construction. You'll probably have to pin it in several places to keep it from gapping (maybe make the bodice a little longer than you'd need), but it'll work. After all, who says you have to copy it 100% exactly?
I don't have a copy of "Costume in Detail" but I'll google it and see what turns up. It's called "Apron Front"? I think I have seen some of these in various pinterest-fests.... I was thinking drop-front, but maybe apron front would make sense, too.... If you look at the image, the skirt isn't attached to that waistband. The gathers are lying underneath it.
I don't know that I am going to copy it 100% exactly, but I would like to understand its construction before I start! I think this is actually the first garment I ever looked at and actually wanted to make it as close-looking to it as possible. I'm usually quite laid back and 'eh' about my construction, LOL!
I am going to make a working mock-up (as in, another dress that I can actually wear, hah!) in some of this bajillion yards of white fabric first, to make sure I like what I get.
I highly recommend Costume in Detail! It's detailed sketches of several hundred original garments, from mid 1700s to the 1930s. Lots of construction details and measurements. It was the first costume book I bought, and still the first one I reach for. In print, and relatively inexpensive.
I use "bib front" when the bodice as well as the skirt folds down, and "apron front" when it's just the skirt. I don't know if that's period terminology, though. "Drop front" isn't as clear in meaning, either.
Since you *do* want to be as close to a copy as reasonable, I do think that it's a "bib front," with the "bib" actually being the full bodice front. It looks like it's shaped around the armholes so it's not obvious. The waistband may then be ties of some kind; either that or it finishes the bottom edge of the bib, and the skirt is attached beneath it but not to the edge. The waistband/ties conundrum is something I haven't solved to my satisfaction (it's visible on many originals but I'm not sure what it is or how it works with the gowns). Then make the bib seamed in the middle so you get the right line. It's a subtle detail, but I don't think it's actually open at the center front.
That said, I think it would be awesome if you did do a center front opening. Just to be different! In that case, you'd want the skirt to be apron front, and separate from the bodice. Probably gathered to a fixed band. Pages 81-82 and 99-100 in Costume in Detail show examples of this construction. You'll probably have to pin it in several places to keep it from gapping (maybe make the bodice a little longer than you'd need), but it'll work. After all, who says you have to copy it 100% exactly?
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I don't know that I am going to copy it 100% exactly, but I would like to understand its construction before I start! I think this is actually the first garment I ever looked at and actually wanted to make it as close-looking to it as possible. I'm usually quite laid back and 'eh' about my construction, LOL!
I am going to make a working mock-up (as in, another dress that I can actually wear, hah!) in some of this bajillion yards of white fabric first, to make sure I like what I get.
Reply
I use "bib front" when the bodice as well as the skirt folds down, and "apron front" when it's just the skirt. I don't know if that's period terminology, though. "Drop front" isn't as clear in meaning, either.
Since you *do* want to be as close to a copy as reasonable, I do think that it's a "bib front," with the "bib" actually being the full bodice front. It looks like it's shaped around the armholes so it's not obvious. The waistband may then be ties of some kind; either that or it finishes the bottom edge of the bib, and the skirt is attached beneath it but not to the edge. The waistband/ties conundrum is something I haven't solved to my satisfaction (it's visible on many originals but I'm not sure what it is or how it works with the gowns). Then make the bib seamed in the middle so you get the right line. It's a subtle detail, but I don't think it's actually open at the center front.
That's a great idea!
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