MTBs are funtiger0rangeSeptember 11 2007, 01:23:29 UTC
Well, I thought I would chime in with some answers. First of all I must say, it's great hearing from you again. I don't know what you are up to except from LJ a bit. I am a bit confused about parts of it, but don't get a chance to ask.
I have a cute wife and a cuter baby boy, am working in research, and generally doing good.
Okay, with that out of the way. The pre-load stiffens the shock up so that it takes more force (such as weight, bump, etc.) before it compresses.
The quickest and simplest thing to say is that you should set the pre-load (usually a small knob at the top of one of the fork posts) so that the front goes down by about 20% when you are on the bike and in riding position.
This allows for the best compromise between comfort and pedaling efficiency.
If you prefer efficiency, you might want to go with the softest setting at which the shock don't compress when you are sitting on the bike.
I tend to go even stiffer with the softest at which the shocks don't compress when I am spinning, with some compression when I'm cranking.
MTB disk brakes don't need much breaking in if they are properly set-up. If your brakes feel a little squishy, you might want to adjust the pads closer to the disk. There should be a hex screw hole on one of the calipers that holds the brake pads to either side of the disc. Turn that screw to bring the pad closer to the disk.
I tried breaking in my disk pad by pedaling while holding the brakes, but later found out that was totaly worthless. You might just need to adjust it like I did.
I have a cute wife and a cuter baby boy, am working in research, and generally doing good.
Okay, with that out of the way. The pre-load stiffens the shock up so that it takes more force (such as weight, bump, etc.) before it compresses.
The quickest and simplest thing to say is that you should set the pre-load (usually a small knob at the top of one of the fork posts) so that the front goes down by about 20% when you are on the bike and in riding position.
This allows for the best compromise between comfort and pedaling efficiency.
If you prefer efficiency, you might want to go with the softest setting at which the shock don't compress when you are sitting on the bike.
I tend to go even stiffer with the softest at which the shocks don't compress when I am spinning, with some compression when I'm cranking.
MTB disk brakes don't need much breaking in if they are properly set-up. If your brakes feel a little squishy, you might want to adjust the pads closer to the disk. There should be a hex screw hole on one of the calipers that holds the brake pads to either side of the disc. Turn that screw to bring the pad closer to the disk.
I tried breaking in my disk pad by pedaling while holding the brakes, but later found out that was totaly worthless. You might just need to adjust it like I did.
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Yeah I tend to be a bit cryptic on here, personal limitation ;)
I am 3.5 years in Japan. Still working for Nova, which is still by the grace of investors opening it's doors.
I study Aikido three times (ish) a week, and Play way too much City of Heroes, and WoW.
Planning to start doing a weekly ride, now that I have a ride that doesn't make me like a prepubescent.
:)
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