Finally writing up a bit about my holidays last October!
The
Thorsborne Trail. I’d wanted to do this walk for some time so the opportunity presented itself when A was planning a walk with two of her friends. The maximum size group allowed on the track is 6 so I was able to slot into one of the extra spaces. The number of people allowed to be on the trail at any one time is 40.
The Thorsborne Trail is a 32-kilometre track along the east coast of Hinchinbrook Island, a spectacular and rugged island about 8 kilometres off the North Queensland coast about half way between Townsville and Cairns. It is part of the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage area. The track goes along beaches, across creeks, scrambles across boulders, crosses headlands, through swamps and traverses rainforest and heathlands. I traced the route via Google Earth, read the track notes, re-packaged food and checked the gear.
It is a wilderness area and walkers need to be self-sufficient for their time on the track. It is recommended that a minimum of three nights be spent tackling the trail. We decided to take our time and spend four nights.
Early morning Day 4. Zoe Bay from the beach in front of the campsite. Incredibly beautiful it’s also deadly being crocodile and marine stinger territory.
It had poured rain during the trip from Townsville to Cardwell. The (sole) taxi driver in Cardwell was a little concerned for our chances as if the rain continued we might not be allowed to start the walk because of rising creeks.
However, the next morning was fine and shortly after 9.00 am we were skimming across the Channel in the Hinchinbrook Explorer. Closer to the island the rain was coming down again and as we entered the mangrove creeks to the north cloud was obscuring the mountain peaks.
Most of the first day was on-rainjackets, off-rainjackets and the humidity was already starting to tell. It cleared in the afternoon to enable us to climb Nina Peak for gorgeous views.
The rain stayed away until it was starting to get dark at 6.30, just as dinner was cleared away so it was straight into the tents at the Nina Bay campsite. It rained on and off all night and it was raining as we took down the tents and packed up. The morning was a repeat of the next day with the rainjackets as we hopped over the rocks at Boulder Bay, scaled a steep little cliff and over the ridge to Little Ramsey Bay for morning tea. There was a campsite here but we were heading on to Banksia Bay for the night. So it was back on with the packs and down the beach.
It was a side trip down to Banksia Bay but first a little further along the main track the path crossed Banksia Creek which had a delightful little swimming hole and waterfall. High up in fresh water there were no worries about swimming and gathering water from the top of the falls. Refreshing for both our clothes and us.
We had Banksia Bay all to ourselves for all the afternoon with another party of two not arriving until after nightfall.
Day 3 was the longest day of the trip with a detour around the tidal estuaries and swamps. Part of the track through the ‘Dead Marshes’ was glutinous mud and careful steps from tree roots to tree roots were required. I didn’t realise how glutinous until stepping back onto firm ground and heading up the track a cry from behind revealed that E had missed her footing and was front first stuck in the mud up to her thighs. Fallen forward she could not get a firm footing to get up. We had to get her back off her and try to pull her out while balancing on tree roots ourselves all the while laughing hysterically!
The swampy creek crossings were also croc territory. Seeing E had already fallen in the mud all eyes on her to see if she’d tumble here.
There were also fresh water creeks amidst the beautiful forests on this day. Fantail palms. M heading into the dense jungle.
Camp on Day 3 was at Zoe Bay. Mmm, the neighbours…
A kilometre inland from the camp is this beautiful swimming hole at South Zoe Falls. It’s so deep I was over my head in just a few paces. Crystal clear and very cold - beautifully refreshing. A wonderful pummelling shower under the falls. Curious jungle perch (fish) coming to check you out.
After leaving the falls the track scrambles up the side to emerge at cascades on the top. It’s a steep scramble and at one spot a helpful rope has been installed.
B as Indiana-annie runs up easily.
Day 4 included a slog up to the highest part of the track.
Morning tea half way up.
A granite rock saddle marked the top of the climb with the track then following the coast with beautiful views out to sea.
A short side trip up the hill. View out to the Coral Sea.
The track then descended very steeply to Mulligans Falls. I was grateful that we were walking north to south rather than the reverse, as I would not like to be scrambling up with food for five days in my pack. That whole day was the toughest on the track.
Mulligans Falls in the rainforest. Another beautiful swimming hole. The most number of people we had seen in days for there were two groups heading north as well as four pairs that had caught us up on our leisurely pace. One pair of two young blokes told us that they had found the terrain and going hard and had lots of admiration for our group of ‘more mature’ ladies.
The last day we had to travel 7.5 kilometres to reach the pick up spot by 11.00am. The tides rule the timetables with pickup at low tide.
An early morning swim for me at the Falls before packing up. I had this all to myself.
The track out to reach the beach. There was 2.5 kilometres of this type of terrain. We were out by 8.30am though for the last 5 kilometres down the beach.
Last look back along the island before turning the corner to George’s Point and the pickup spot to take us to the sugar port of Lucinda.