The love-hate Relationship Continues.
Made a lot more progress on the Spoonbusk corset and bustle. I finished putting in the grommets last night so I put both on for some messy in=progress photos before I move onto the next stage in class next week. The bustle is coming along very nicely, but the corset is still making me a little crazy; mostly in relation to the busk area. More info and pictures under the
Corset:
I have put in the hook side of the busk 3 times now and I am still not 100% happy with it. This last time though, was a delineate improvement so I am leaving it. It was a combination of two things (Wrinkling-see top photo) and the lining (White) rolling out. I tried under-stitching the lining to the inside, but it still wants to roll and peak onto the outside, especially at the waist tape. I'v never had this probleme before, so I am not really sure what is causing it, maybe just because the busk is curved? I just find it distracting to be looking at a dark corset and have a white stripe going down the front. I am going to try hand-sewing it to the inside, if not I might color it with a fabric pen along the edge. Hopefully it will be less noticeable when I am wearing my white chemise. I did not want to use a colored facing because I was worried about the silk marking the linen = plan backfire. I didn't want to make a black chemise, I like the high contrast of the dark corset and bustle to the white chemise I saw in historical examples.
I am also not 100% sure I like the ft of the bust, it is much more stiff than in the mock-up. Also, it's not laced all the way up the back because I want to put the last few grommets in over the lace. My hope is it will mold more to me when it breaks in, and that the last few grommets will pull it closer to my torso. If not, I guess I could unpick that area and fiddle with the gussets (again). GAH!
The finished waist measurement of the corset is 22" When I measured myself wearing it my waist was 25", pretty decent considering my natural waist is 28" and my torso is not very squishy. I do wish the gap was a bit small, but considering I had to make the back panel smaller (Fabric remnant) I am not surprised, and will live with it. The larger gap may make it easier to use this piece for photoshoots, since it will easier fit model size humans :)
Bustle:
WEEE STRIPES!
I am really liking the look of the bias casings, and I can't wait to get the pleated ruffle on for extra eye exploding stripy-ness! The boning is this circular plastic tubing my teacher gave us. Right now I think it is curving to much, so I am going to ask my teacher about straightening them before I stitch the casings closed. For the waistband I got some matching ribbon and a small buckle. The inside will lace-up, giving me a greater variety in size. That is, if I can get the bones straightened, right now they curve so much the ends touch!