Creative Draping 3 of 3 + Final
The third and final project in my creative draping class was to make a Boned bodice top of some kind (my teacher used the words corset and bustier interchangeably) with added volume. Another aspect of the project was to pick a couture house that made corsets, and design something in their style. When I worked for Darkgarden corsetry, I was deeply in love with their "Jacob" style (a men's racer-back corset with tails) I decided to use that style as the inspiration for this project.
I was also given permission by my teacher to drape at home on my uniquely you manniquin, instead of the schools size eight's. The end result is something I can actually wear! That doesn't usually happen with my school projects.
This is the first project: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/17237.html
and this is the second: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/17951.html
The Drape:
After I finished the drape I transferred it to pattern paper, I also decided to make the bust more 18th century style, so I grafted the front of my stays onto the bust section of the pattern.
I also drafted the pockets, rather than drape them.
The Final result:
One layer Navy cotton Sateen (Interfaced) over a foundation layer of black twill, boned entirely with zip ties. Back has a large 18" separating zipper. I was really lucky to find this beautiful Gunmetal colored Riri zipper for $1!
The final result could use some fine-tuning. In order to get the project done on time I made some short-cuts. I hope to find some time later on to fix some things. Mainly the large wrinkle across the front. I think If I release the binding, and pull the layers more tight that will do it. Also, the bottom back of the corset is too large, so I need to take it in a bit.
It could have been worse, it fits really well considering I went straight from a drape!
To make the boning channels, I stitched down the seam allowances on the twill layer, the two layers are only attached at the binding. (which caused the wrinkling i'm sure)
I had to add snaps inside the center back pleat to keep it flat under the zipper. This method allows me to have a closed back, while keeping the corset large enough to slip on and off. I am curious to get this to work with grommets later, on a corset with reduction, instead of a zipper.
The final test for the class was to drape another corset (Giving us something to do while she graded our projects, so we could get them back before we left for break- really nice of her) Honestly I can't say I really like what I came up with. It's very pseudo Elizabethan...and weird.
Considering though, that I had only four hours of sleep, and a bleeding gash on my hand from falling down an escalator, I am proud of myself for having draped something wearable, even if I don't like it now :) I'm pretty sure I had also forgotten my muslin, and had to barrow some...It's a good thing Finals don't happen that often, I would die.
I was also given permission by my teacher to drape at home on my uniquely you manniquin, instead of the schools size eight's. The end result is something I can actually wear! That doesn't usually happen with my school projects.
This is the first project: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/17237.html
and this is the second: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/17951.html
The Drape:
After I finished the drape I transferred it to pattern paper, I also decided to make the bust more 18th century style, so I grafted the front of my stays onto the bust section of the pattern.
I also drafted the pockets, rather than drape them.
The Final result:
One layer Navy cotton Sateen (Interfaced) over a foundation layer of black twill, boned entirely with zip ties. Back has a large 18" separating zipper. I was really lucky to find this beautiful Gunmetal colored Riri zipper for $1!
The final result could use some fine-tuning. In order to get the project done on time I made some short-cuts. I hope to find some time later on to fix some things. Mainly the large wrinkle across the front. I think If I release the binding, and pull the layers more tight that will do it. Also, the bottom back of the corset is too large, so I need to take it in a bit.
It could have been worse, it fits really well considering I went straight from a drape!
To make the boning channels, I stitched down the seam allowances on the twill layer, the two layers are only attached at the binding. (which caused the wrinkling i'm sure)
I had to add snaps inside the center back pleat to keep it flat under the zipper. This method allows me to have a closed back, while keeping the corset large enough to slip on and off. I am curious to get this to work with grommets later, on a corset with reduction, instead of a zipper.
The final test for the class was to drape another corset (Giving us something to do while she graded our projects, so we could get them back before we left for break- really nice of her) Honestly I can't say I really like what I came up with. It's very pseudo Elizabethan...and weird.
Considering though, that I had only four hours of sleep, and a bleeding gash on my hand from falling down an escalator, I am proud of myself for having draped something wearable, even if I don't like it now :) I'm pretty sure I had also forgotten my muslin, and had to barrow some...It's a good thing Finals don't happen that often, I would die.