Feb 08, 2007 18:18
This country´s flag is the continent´s second most organic. Chileans in line
at the border joke about prospect of being denied admittance for refusing to
share some coastline with landlocked neighbor. Flavorful trout directly out
of lago Titiqaqa, washed down with tasty Bolivian beer at
mom + pop shop in the dusty marina. Ferry carries our eastbound bus across
the ancient lake, while we crowd a speedboat. Moments later we´re back on
route to La Paz. Past one farming community after another. Populous families jam
picnic tables on this sunday afternoon, melting my onward looking heart. If my
previous travels across the U.S. were an auto-olympic attempt to dash along with no funds or reservations,
these international adventures are about a deeper yearning to feel
interconnected with the whole of humanity. To look at a world globe and be able to visualize its people and the realities that consume them.
La Paz. A bustling city sculpted unto a gaping void where a giant chunk of
ice cream was scooped out from a jar of jagged mint chips. Worlds steepest
road drops 3600 m in 64 km and is a mountain bike trail, now that a safer
route has been built for cars. But guided bike tours cost $50, so I try
something else. Instead of emptying my pockets for some tourist agency,
I buy a used bike from street market locals for $25 and donate it to this
teenage waiter at the only Palestinian restaurant in town, once Ive had my
fun with it. Diarrhea and related complications cancel my downhill trek, but
I was able to explore most of La Paz on two wheels. Stadium was in the midst
of a regional soccer match. The roar of human energy being emitted from
inside was like nothing Ive ever heared. Mailed off a bag of coca leaves so
my friend in Brooklyn can make tea with it. Stamps here are so gorgeous I
start a collection. Havent found any license plates yet though. Museum of
Bolivian musical instruments was phenomenal. Touching allowed! At the bus
terminal I depart for Argentina, but first I find a stranded AfroColombian
who got jacked of every last peso on his way to find work mining. Helping
out with $100 means Im that much closer to being broke before reaching Costa
Rica to meet with Oscar. Ive got to budget even harder now. Ive got faith
and determination. Bolivias been the cheapest country so far, but south of
here proves no cheaper than the U.S. Next update... Argentina and Chile.
Right now I am back in Peru, on the rebound north towards Colombia for the
carnaval de acordeones.