The Brown Derby
[originally posted on Tableau Vivante]
As night fell on the 8th evening of our trip, my wife and I made our way through the retro neon turnstyles of Disney’s MGM Studios into a carefully reconstructed facsimile of a bygone Tinsel Town.
The pseudo-Hollywood Blvd. we trekked down did manage to remind me of the real thing, albeit with distinctly Disneyesque overtones.
Our goal was the site for Dinner #8, a loving recreation of the now dearly departed 1920’s Los Angeles dining icon, The Hollywood Brown Derby restaurant.
The original was famous for its wall-covering collection of caricatures, a veritable who’s who of Hollywood’s heyday. The Orlando version’s dining room remained faithful to all of that detail.
The original Brown Derby’s key claim to culinary fame was the invention of Cobb salad by none other than Mr. Cobb, one of the owners. He raided the fridge one night for an impromptu snack that, once served, guests began to request on a regular basis. Needless to say, there was Cobb salad here. But, taking it as seriously as they do, it’s served only in a size requiring two or more persons to devour it. My wife and I have had it before and we wanted to try something new.
So I ordered the Mulligatawny Soup with Scented Basmati Rice, Crème fraîche, and Snipped Chives. It was thick, creamy and exotically spiced. From the menu descriptions, I knew just what wine to pair it with.
As part of their Year of a Million Dreams, Disney sommeliers had colaborated with wineries around the world to create unique bottlings just for that celebration. I chose the Chalk Hill “Imagine” Chardonnay bottled right in the heart of Sonoma of all places (eyes Ms. Vivante). It was described as “rich, full-bodied, displaying pear, red apples and spicy oak, delicious long finish.” I found most of that and a buttery texture, as well. It went great with the soup.
My wife got the Blue Jumbo Lump Crab Cake with Potato Crust, Savoy Cabbage Slaw, Dijon Mustard and Remoulade Sauces. It was alternately sweet, tangy and creamy, and big enough that I got to finish it off. It, too, paired well with my Chardonnay.
My wife’s entrée was the Split Roasted Half Chicken with Rice Pilaf, Almond Cranberry Polonaise, and Maple Vinegar Sauce. Her report? “Yummy!”
I moved on to a glass of Cakebread Chardonnay (Napa) and so stayed with white wine food.
The Chardonnay was even bolder than the first. It kept pace nicely with the strength of my main dish’s sauce. I got the Pan-fired Black Grouper with Aged Balsamic Roasted Asparagus, Sweet Onion Marmalade, and Citrus Juices. The citrus in the food keyed similar notes in the wine while the sweetness in the marmalade tarted up the drink. It worked, but ended up being a very different pairing than my first course.
I’d love to get back there someday before the menu changes. It was a real toss up for what to order and I’m still missing what I didn’t get: Pan Roasted Duck Breast and Venison Sausage with Celery Root Puree, Natural Reduction, and Currant-Chili Jam. But, it can’t be time to plan the next meal until you’ve finished the one you’re at. That required dessert!
If there’s one thing that can occasionally pry my wife off of a dark chocolate dessert, it’s bananas. And a Banana White Chocolate Toffee Tower on Cocoa Almond Cookie and Bananas “Foster”? Just the thing.
I went festive with a Pumpkin Cheesecake with Gingerbread Crust, Pumpkin Seed Brittle, and Brandied Pear Glaze.
Each bite was pre-diabetic bliss. It put me in the mind of Thanksgiving and Christmas combined.
No doubt about it, if ever you venture out Disney World’s way, the Brown Derby belongs on your short list of essential feeds.