Steuchlein Update...
The furthest I got on the recreation of this piece was completing the Wulst roll (and inspiring a slew of folks to do the same!):
amatilda and I are planning on hosting a workshop on recreating this many-layered marvel in detail sometime in August. I am hoping to come up with some sort of coif/hat that will act as the 'Wulsthaube' (pad, roll or ring-hat):
"All the previously described lady’s caps/coifs show a recognizably similar construction. Over a shape supporting under cap/coif, which was at first constructed with a high bow shaped arch, later becoming a light accentuation on the back of the head, was placed an over cap/coif, leaving the shape of the under cap/coif only visible through the impression of the curved shape of the over cap/coif. Depending on place and occasion the materials range from plain linen, to delicately transparent woven silk. The width and design of the appropriate decorated border depended on the social status of the wearer. Wulsthauben” (support cap) are recorded for each type of cap/coif (hauben)." ("Textiler Hausrat" by Jutta Zander-Seidel, translated by
jillwheezul)
In 'my' version of this hat, there is at least three layers: Wulst, Wulsthaube/coif, Schleier/shapped veil/embroidered over-coif. For those images that have the lighter 'outer layer' I would add a light silk veil as a fourth layer and to protect my embroidery.
Was looking at
attack_laurel 's website today: http://www.extremecostuming.com/reproductions/vacoift281975.html
I think I am going to start testing out this 'sort' of basic shape with more 'room' in the back as my Wulsthaube layer. Holding the Wulst in a position to the extream rear of the head (which was common in the early period) is hard to do without 'cheating' via combs attached to the bottom of the roll. I am trying to get a final form that will hold the roll of the Wulst in place without any need for pinning the Wulst to my head/hair.
Then I can work on creating a sort of formed Schleier (a modified rectangle, shapped with less fabric toward the front edges and embroidered for decoration).
Then I can figure out how to pin it all together and add the silk veil.
Any thoughts on shaping from those with more patterning experiance (everyone?) are appreciated! Thanks for listening.