For
grammarwoman, the tomato soup I
mentioned a few days ago and also in
this post from last year.
summer tomato soup
This is basically summer in a bowl. There is no point making this soup with anything but fresh, perfectly ripe in-season tomatoes from your garden or the farmers' market. It is not a quick recipe, and it is best if you have some specialized equipment (a ricer or food mill), but it can be made with nothing but a knife if that's what you've got.
4-5 pounds tomatoes, preferably a mix of types
~1 tablespoon kosher salt or sea salt, less if you're using table salt
Core and then peel the tomatoes, either by dunking them in boiling water and picking off the skins or, if they're sturdy enough, peeling with a vegetable peeler. Slice them in half at the equator and squeeze the seeds into a strainer set over a bowl. Use a spoon or rubber spatula to press through the jelly-like stuff around the seeds; that's where a lot of the flavor is. Save the liquid; discard the seeds.
Press the tomatoes through a ricer or food mill, or chop them to your preferred texture. (Don't use a blender, which makes the soup weirdly foamy; you can use a food processor if you just pulse rather than process, but honestly, I think a ricer or food mill gives the best results.) Sprinkle with salt and let stand for a few minutes; add as much of the strained juice as you need to give the soup the texture you want.
Serve warm, chilled, or room temperature with a sprinkling of finely chopped herbs (basil works beautifully, or chives with some chive blossoms for garnish), some chunks of ripe avocado, a drizzle of balsamic vinegar, or, my favorite, tarragon cream sauce:
2 tablespoons fresh tarragon
1/2 cup heavy cream
Strip the tarragon leaves from the stems; chop the leaves coarsely and combine with the cream. Let steep in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. (I make the sauce before I start the soup.) Swirl a spoonful through each bowl.
Serve with a nice crusty bread (and, if you're me, a nice red wine).
And that's it. Best when it's first made, but it'll keep several days in the fridge.
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