Lễ but no hội
Another New Year - the months rocket by. In fact, it's already past the first full moon of the year, which as you all know is Year of the Metal/GoldRat. Here in Hanoi things have not yet got back into full swing after the Tết break - it officially ended last Monday, but concerns about the coronavirus have kept things quiet. All government offices are open, as are most workplaces and large businesses, but some smaller shops are not bothering much - and the market's a bit quieter, too. Schools, encouraged by the government, electing to stay shut an extra week or two, and people putting off visiting and business trips - not invariably, but traffic is perceptibly less.
Here's from a local communal notice-board, the chalked new year greetings, "Chúc Mừng Năm Mới, Canh Tý 2020" with a sketch of spring flowers - and then, stuck on a week or so later (but considerately leaving the community greeting still clear) a government notice about health precautions to take, to minimise chances of spreading the new virus - these suggest hand-washing etc.
The government is taking a serious but measured response to the whole thing. It is compulsory to wear face-masks on public transport, but not otherwise (though obviously individual places of business could require people to, if they want; I don't know of one that does, but I know one that requires everyone to use their hand-santiser as they enter the office.). The border crossings to China are not all closed, but most are. Big gatherings are being postponed or cancelled - the first few days of Tết itself weren't impacted, but the post-Tết spring pilgrimages are well down, and concerts and things have been put off.
Locally, the celebrations for the 994th anniversary of the founder-benefactor of our village pretty much didn't happen, The temple was open, and people came by twos and threes to burn incense and drink tea, and donate to the community association and receive small token presents in return, but the usual night-time, whole-community concert, and traditional music band, and the day-long ceremonies in traditional costume and big free lunch for all comers - all these didn't happen.
"So we have no lễ hội [festival] this year," I said to the man pouring out the tea.
"We've got the lễ [ceremonial occasion] but no hội [gathering]," he said, and laughed.
Mmmm... well, it was funny at the time.
Here's from a local communal notice-board, the chalked new year greetings, "Chúc Mừng Năm Mới, Canh Tý 2020" with a sketch of spring flowers - and then, stuck on a week or so later (but considerately leaving the community greeting still clear) a government notice about health precautions to take, to minimise chances of spreading the new virus - these suggest hand-washing etc.
The government is taking a serious but measured response to the whole thing. It is compulsory to wear face-masks on public transport, but not otherwise (though obviously individual places of business could require people to, if they want; I don't know of one that does, but I know one that requires everyone to use their hand-santiser as they enter the office.). The border crossings to China are not all closed, but most are. Big gatherings are being postponed or cancelled - the first few days of Tết itself weren't impacted, but the post-Tết spring pilgrimages are well down, and concerts and things have been put off.
Locally, the celebrations for the 994th anniversary of the founder-benefactor of our village pretty much didn't happen, The temple was open, and people came by twos and threes to burn incense and drink tea, and donate to the community association and receive small token presents in return, but the usual night-time, whole-community concert, and traditional music band, and the day-long ceremonies in traditional costume and big free lunch for all comers - all these didn't happen.
"So we have no lễ hội [festival] this year," I said to the man pouring out the tea.
"We've got the lễ [ceremonial occasion] but no hội [gathering]," he said, and laughed.
Mmmm... well, it was funny at the time.