The weather forecast was favourable and G had planned another walk. We drove to Arthog and parked in the huge layby below the village hall. The name "Arthog" derives from the Welsh word for "bear" and is a reminder that we used to have bears roaming around, though they are long gone now. We also used to have wolves. Legend has it that the last Welsh wolf was killed near a place called Coed y Bleiddiau (“Wood of the Wolves”) close to the village of Maentwrog in the early decades of the 16th century. Though there's also a local legend that the last wolf was killed on a farm on the lower slopes of Cader Idris.
We followed this rather stony bridleway up through the woods. As I think I've said before, you can't really walk anywhere round here without climbing a hill. The track zig-zags steeply up the hillside. To the right was a scree slope, glimpsed through the trees.
After a couple of miles, we passed the track leading to a mill and then reached a cluster of cottages. One had a plaque saying that Henry Lloyd, a Welsh poet who used the bardic name "Ap Hefin" lived there as a child. But I think I'll do another post about him tomorrow.
At the top we briefly came out on more open land. This is the Afon Arthog (River Arthog).
We didn't carry on over the stone bridge but instead took a sharp left and climbed over a stile which announced the path was part of the Cambrian Way.
Having looked at the
Cambrian Way's official website, I can safely say that this is probably the only part of the trail we'll be tackling -- unless there are any other easy bits. The route stretches the whole length of Wales from Cardiff in the south to Conwy in the north. It also goes over all the highest mountains in the areas it passes through. As the web site says, "Total distance 298 miles (479km), ascent approximately 74,000 feet (22,500 metres), unwaymarked over mountains - Navigation skills essential."
From here we basically followed the Afon Arthog down towards the estuary. We were never far horizontally from the river, but there were times when it was an awful long way below us. Here we were walking more or less beside the river.
This was a really interesting fungus I spotted, very distinctive (and therefore easy to identify as the
Black Bulgar (Bulgaria inquinans). The smaller specimens looked like black shiny buttons or discs of liquorice. It was growing on a dead log. According to the article I've linked to, it's considered a delicacy in Northeastern China, but it's poisonous if not properly prepared. Definitely not one for mushroom foragers!
And here are the Arthog Falls! I thought it would just be rushing rapids all the way down, but there was this delightful waterfall. It was obvious from how well used the path is that most people walk up to the falls and then retrace their steps. In fact G had done that some time ago, so he knew the falls were there, but hadn't told me so it would be a surprise.
Back at the main road, there was another Cambrian Way sign.
From here we crossed the main road and the took the footpath through the fields and along the Mawddach Trail back to where we'd left the car. Total distance 3.5 miles.