Vinyl siding isn't usually used to hide damage.It can be but its the "no painting" as the motivator. The damage will be from nailing. If its wood you'll have a bunch of roofing about 8d(penny) size nail holes. Simple caulk and paint to match if its not white. The paint underneath will prolly need a scrapin' after the years. Paint can be expensive so plan for that on the rip off costs. If its the ceramic/cement/asbestos tile siding you'll have massive splitting and shattering to replace.
Vinyl siding can be removed and sold/frrecycled as salvage. So not shattering and busting it to pieces may have some benefit. Unlike the bathroom floor, you want to take it down carefully so you don't mar the wood underneath with saws or prybars. One of the few times you'll hear me say do demo gentle.
You start at the top and work down which is the opposite of how it's installed. You may want to watch an installation video so you are familiar with how it went together. The special siding pry tool to unlock the lip can be useful but its just a specialized and small sized pry bar. The nail heads should be loose nailed so the siding can expand and contract along the nail slots. meaning getting a claw under it for pulling should be easier.
Oh, I know. It's more the damage that it has CAUSED. This area is so much more damp/humid than inland NC. Of course vinyl (which this is) doesn't give the house room to breathe. I also hate that, though not intended to do so, it does end up hiding any damage to the actual wood underneath. Beyond that, there hasn't been much maintenance over the years so a few pieces became dislodged and were never replace--thus gaps for moisture to enter. Paint's pretty easy for me to get--a lot of times the local classifieds/trading post have excess exterior paint for cheap.
I'm actually willing to deal with the extra work of maintaining paint. I think I've mentioned before that my ultimate goal with the house (should I ever be able to afford it) is to have it look as historically accurate as possible, but with at least some modern conveniences. The siding hides the windows (original 6 over 6 and 4 over 4s that are largely intact), makes them look smaller and makes the house look bulky and cheap.
I had no idea it could be recycled. How does one go about doing that. Times like this I REALLY miss having a pickup. Not being able to haul stuff really complicates things.
*grin* I actually do know how to remove and replace siding. We've repaired a few spots ourselves to minimize damage until we can remove it.
Oh, speaking of bathroom floors--a question....actually a couple now that I think about it. I'm reasonably sure that under the ugly tile throughout the house, we have original hardwood flooring. Some people have recommended heat guns to remove the tile. Suggestions? Also, since it WAS put in during the late 70s, how much do I have to worry about asbestos?
It's also that lovely time of year where I can strip paint--warm enough to keep windows open for ventilation. The paint stripper I was using was somewhat effective but not very. Do you have a..er..stripper preference? I'm looking for a good compromise between something that will get through 40+ years of varying types of paint without me scrubbing/scraping until I'm 80 and something gentle enough not to damage the underlying wood.
Pretty nifty--part of the job Rob has now is learning low-voltage wiring, running cable, all that good stuff. Useful, eh?
Vinyl siding isn't as air tight as you may think. The heat build up under it may have been enough to cause the moisture to evaporate. The north side may be an issue. Any issue of mold/moss growing on the side or near the ground?
Random side question did the put insulation under the siding or just over the wood? The point being if there is insulation you could be in for a nasty surprise on the next heating/air conditioning cycle
Score on the paint. Most people horde that stuff here until its unusable. Color mixing just you need to do it all in one batch with similar type paints latex/oil gloss/semi/flat
Recycled is based on it being a plastic, so your recycling facilities and their rules may vary. I was thinking more in the recycle/reuse like here's a craig's list come get it ad.
Glad to hear it. Siding isn't hard once you understand how it should be snapped together.
Total crap shoot for asbestos. One time limited exposure isn't going to make you sick. The dust of "dirt of the ages" can make you get sick and stuffy headed just as easily. Wear a face mask and gloves. Wash off outside. Have a fan to blow the dust outside and wet the area/air to make the dust heavier so it doesn't stay airborne as long. Block the air vents of course.
Heat can help (be careful of fumes from the tile/glue) You need a good scraper and patience. Different styles work depending on how the tile is stuck and shattering/coming up. You'll want the pole version to save your back and hand held versions. Both have their place speed verses detailed attention to the stubborn pieces. You may need some solvents to break down the glue and stickies on the floor. The glue will have soaked into the wood so you have to sand it down to get out the lines/stains. Also remember you beating the hell out of your body for jarring it while ramming into the tiles. So be careful and take time to protect your joints.
After that you'll prolly need to rent a floor sander and re shellac. the floor will look a lot lighter than it will finish out to with clear shellac so don't stain them. When I redid the hardwood floors in my house I had to deal with tile squares under carpet. The rental was like $80 with a few belts included.Belts are expendables and you need varying grits for a good finish. 40-80grit for the take down 100-140+ grit for finishing. The dust was be horrendous. See above about masks and coating your sinuses. Seal off the rooms and have exhaust fans. You will find traces for the next year plus. Always keep the machine moving if its running or you'll sand dips in the floor. I didn't sand the shellac between applications and wish I would have done that and more than the two coats. Extra coats cost extra days for drying time and non use. Plus you need to vent or you'll be high as a kite. Get a good 4 inch brush the sponge versions shred apart and you have little black fuzzies left through for gritty rough spots. They were off/down after a few years but they suck for ouchies until then. I didn't rent the conner sander and used a palm sander. Time + possession of tools verses cost of rental. The other thing you have to make sure you can get all the nail/metal out of the floor or you can serious damage the machine's head through the belts. There's a lot more on refinishing but that's a primer.
Nothing on the strippers other than chemical over natural and gel over liquid. High pressure washers and sand blasting can really eat away the wood so they need to be avoided or used with a wider blast pattern (say 15° over Ø° )if there is massive paint peel to remove. Even after the spraying you'll need a scrape for touch up spots and those last few stubborn flakes. Ever time you spray you'll get those last buggers only to have new sections start to peel/pop up
Running wire is basic good skill. Eventually you upgrade the electrical they way it should be and doing home runs while over kill will allow for expansion later. Who would have more than one phone , tv, computer....... Running a large bundle would allow for phone, ethernet and what ever else linking may become the norm. Multiple jacks/connections in every room. Who would ever need more than one outlet for kitchen appliances....
Vinyl siding can be removed and sold/frrecycled as salvage. So not shattering and busting it to pieces may have some benefit. Unlike the bathroom floor, you want to take it down carefully so you don't mar the wood underneath with saws or prybars. One of the few times you'll hear me say do demo gentle.
You start at the top and work down which is the opposite of how it's installed. You may want to watch an installation video so you are familiar with how it went together. The special siding pry tool to unlock the lip can be useful but its just a specialized and small sized pry bar. The nail heads should be loose nailed so the siding can expand and contract along the nail slots. meaning getting a claw under it for pulling should be easier.
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Oh, I know. It's more the damage that it has CAUSED. This area is so much more damp/humid than inland NC. Of course vinyl (which this is) doesn't give the house room to breathe. I also hate that, though not intended to do so, it does end up hiding any damage to the actual wood underneath.
Beyond that, there hasn't been much maintenance over the years so a few pieces became dislodged and were never replace--thus gaps for moisture to enter.
Paint's pretty easy for me to get--a lot of times the local classifieds/trading post have excess exterior paint for cheap.
I'm actually willing to deal with the extra work of maintaining paint. I think I've mentioned before that my ultimate goal with the house (should I ever be able to afford it) is to have it look as historically accurate as possible, but with at least some modern conveniences. The siding hides the windows (original 6 over 6 and 4 over 4s that are largely intact), makes them look smaller and makes the house look bulky and cheap.
I had no idea it could be recycled. How does one go about doing that.
Times like this I REALLY miss having a pickup. Not being able to haul stuff really complicates things.
*grin* I actually do know how to remove and replace siding. We've repaired a few spots ourselves to minimize damage until we can remove it.
Oh, speaking of bathroom floors--a question....actually a couple now that I think about it. I'm reasonably sure that under the ugly tile throughout the house, we have original hardwood flooring. Some people have recommended heat guns to remove the tile. Suggestions? Also, since it WAS put in during the late 70s, how much do I have to worry about asbestos?
It's also that lovely time of year where I can strip paint--warm enough to keep windows open for ventilation. The paint stripper I was using was somewhat effective but not very. Do you have a..er..stripper preference? I'm looking for a good compromise between something that will get through 40+ years of varying types of paint without me scrubbing/scraping until I'm 80 and something gentle enough not to damage the underlying wood.
Pretty nifty--part of the job Rob has now is learning low-voltage wiring, running cable, all that good stuff. Useful, eh?
Reply
Random side question did the put insulation under the siding or just over the wood? The point being if there is insulation you could be in for a nasty surprise on the next heating/air conditioning cycle
Score on the paint. Most people horde that stuff here until its unusable. Color mixing just you need to do it all in one batch with similar type paints latex/oil gloss/semi/flat
Recycled is based on it being a plastic, so your recycling facilities and their rules may vary. I was thinking more in the recycle/reuse like here's a craig's list come get it ad.
Glad to hear it. Siding isn't hard once you understand how it should be snapped together.
Total crap shoot for asbestos. One time limited exposure isn't going to make you sick. The dust of "dirt of the ages" can make you get sick and stuffy headed just as easily. Wear a face mask and gloves. Wash off outside. Have a fan to blow the dust outside and wet the area/air to make the dust heavier so it doesn't stay airborne as long. Block the air vents of course.
Heat can help (be careful of fumes from the tile/glue) You need a good scraper and patience. Different styles work depending on how the tile is stuck and shattering/coming up. You'll want the pole version to save your back and hand held versions. Both have their place speed verses detailed attention to the stubborn pieces. You may need some solvents to break down the glue and stickies on the floor. The glue will have soaked into the wood so you have to sand it down to get out the lines/stains. Also remember you beating the hell out of your body for jarring it while ramming into the tiles. So be careful and take time to protect your joints.
After that you'll prolly need to rent a floor sander and re shellac. the floor will look a lot lighter than it will finish out to with clear shellac so don't stain them. When I redid the hardwood floors in my house I had to deal with tile squares under carpet. The rental was like $80 with a few belts included.Belts are expendables and you need varying grits for a good finish. 40-80grit for the take down 100-140+ grit for finishing. The dust was be horrendous. See above about masks and coating your sinuses. Seal off the rooms and have exhaust fans. You will find traces for the next year plus. Always keep the machine moving if its running or you'll sand dips in the floor. I didn't sand the shellac between applications and wish I would have done that and more than the two coats. Extra coats cost extra days for drying time and non use. Plus you need to vent or you'll be high as a kite. Get a good 4 inch brush the sponge versions shred apart and you have little black fuzzies left through for gritty rough spots. They were off/down after a few years but they suck for ouchies until then. I didn't rent the conner sander and used a palm sander. Time + possession of tools verses cost of rental. The other thing you have to make sure you can get all the nail/metal out of the floor or you can serious damage the machine's head through the belts. There's a lot more on refinishing but that's a primer.
Nothing on the strippers other than chemical over natural and gel over liquid. High pressure washers and sand blasting can really eat away the wood so they need to be avoided or used with a wider blast pattern (say 15° over Ø° )if there is massive paint peel to remove. Even after the spraying you'll need a scrape for touch up spots and those last few stubborn flakes. Ever time you spray you'll get those last buggers only to have new sections start to peel/pop up
Running wire is basic good skill. Eventually you upgrade the electrical they way it should be and doing home runs while over kill will allow for expansion later. Who would have more than one phone , tv, computer....... Running a large bundle would allow for phone, ethernet and what ever else linking may become the norm. Multiple jacks/connections in every room. Who would ever need more than one outlet for kitchen appliances....
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