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NYFW : Badgley Mischka - MarchesaNEW YORK FASHION WEEK : 1
SPRING 2013
BADGLEY MISCHKA - MARCHESA
New York Fashion Week finished last Thursday, and as is my habit, I have trawled through the runway pics and picked out all my red carpet predictions for the coming red carpet season. All our favourite red-carpet designers are well represented, but this time, I have tried to really stick to cocktail and evening dresses, in the interest of making these posts a little more to the point, and not quite so lengthy to read through - therefore New York Fashion Week is now in two parts instead of my usual three...
Come and see what they got up to in New York...
BADGLEY MISCHKA
The design duo at Badgley Mischka, namely Mark Badgley and James Mischka, got plenty of inspiration for their amazing Spring 2013 show, from the 1935 film version of 'A Midsummer Night's Dream' apparently - this led them to create a beautiful and predominantly evening-wear show, simply chock-full of fluttery floaty fabrics, embroidered with tiny flowers, inserted floral lace panels, and waterfalls of frills and drapes...colours ranged from the deepest plummy tones, through rust and burnt orange to the palest peachy pinks and creams, interspersed with various shades of pale grey, with hints of mocha and cream, to duck-egg blue-grey - a varied palette and one full of beautifully flattering shades..
Lots of lace and beading here - the empire-line dress, below on the right, is sure to make an appearance, I reckon !!
This dress below will be a sure-fire winner on the red carpet - watch out for this one !! I love the frills down each side of the inserted lace panel in the front, and the cross-strapped halter design is unusual and very pretty...
I love the right-hand dress below - that giant silvery-grey flower design of the bodice is fantastic !!
CARLOS MIELE
Fabulous and fun collection from Carlos Miele this time - lots of brilliantly coloured animal prints, following a trip to the zoo with his young son, who drew loads of pictures of animals afterwards and inspired Carlos to create a collection around this theme.
"I wanted to create a hallucination jungle," the designer said before his show. Well, a blue giraffe print featured as did an acidic yellow and black tiger print, sometimes on the same dress, so he certainly created something quite dreamlike, that's for sure, and strangely, the blue giraffe print combined with the yellow tiger print worked rather well...
More hallucinogenic prints followed, with a bright emerald green combined with black and white leopard print created a set of dresses very reminiscent of the kind of thing that Roberto Cavalli does rather well...
The same acidic yellow combined with brown made for a rich and exotic leopard print too, and then it was combined with the tiger print on the same dress - chaotic and weird, but it all worked !!
He also did a few in black and white for the slightly less adventurous customer - a wise move as not everyone will like the bright acid day-glo colours - my bet is with the black and white, the emerald green print dresses, and maybe the second blue giraffe combined with yellow tiger...we'll have to wait and see though !!
He also produced some more conventional designs in plain colours, which were beautiful - I've picked out the three most likely below...
CAROLINA HERRERA
Caroline Herrera is very popular with certain stars for the red carpet - Renée Zellweger rarely wears any other designer's work when she is seen at a red carpet event, and many other stars have turned up on the red carpet wearing her creations. However,for all that, she is thought of as very much a slightly older woman's designer in some ways - possibly because she is older herself, she is considered to be more likely to think in her own age group - however, having said that, this collection is one of the most youthful collections she has produced for a while. I loved the column gowns with the abstract prints and sections of colour blocking - very modern and elegant.
"I wanted to work with a new proportion this season," the designer explained, "something incredibly light and soft." For me, the column gowns worked best, but there were some other ideas that were lovely too - the orange lace dresses were beautiful, for less formal events, and the very last red one-shouldered gown is a real winner !!
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
Apparently Christian Siriano was once a dancer - who knew ? Anyway, his latest collection was inspired by the American Ballet Theatre's performance of 'The Dream' which crystallized into a beautiful and elegant collection of white and watery colour-tinted chiffon and tulle layers, with white beading and feathers - graceful dresses for evening and cocktail, which were very dreamlike indeed !!
This whole collection had as much lighter touch than usual for him, and it worked very well, I thought...
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
Well, here's the thing - there weren't that many dresses from the Diane Von Furstenberg show that I could honestly see on a red carpet, but the kaftan shapes were amazingly elegant, and I liked her prints. If there is one thing that she is brilliant at, other than her wrap dresses, it's her beautiful prints...
The other thing is that we have a very individual view of this show and the couple of weeks preceding it, as Diane filmed lots of clips using Google's brand new glasses/camcorder technology - called Google Glass, we can see that she and some of her models are wearing some quite futuristic looking glasses, which have a teensy camera in the corner of the frame - hence we see what she sees - a personal film experience like no other - take a look at the short documentary put together about this show:-
Click to view
Here are the best dresses from her show for the red carpet:-
JASON WU
Jason Wu took an unexpected turn this season, with lashings of black leather and lace, with black and white polka-dots on voile combined with leather straps, vampish red lipstick, and more than a slight hint of S & M - dangerous stuff for this designer's usually prim and proper, ultra-ladylike customer, don't you think ?!!
Well, I liked it, and it was great to see Jason stepping right out of comfort zone and trying something very outré - apparently his inspiration came from the Helmut Newton retrospective that showed at the Grand Palais earlier this year, and it certainly showed:-
JENNY PACKHAM
The Style.com reviewer found this collection to be, in their own words "a clunky season", with many of the full length gowns looking over-embellished and heavy - even a tad old-fashioned !! However, the long dresses I've picked out here are anything but - straight, and simple, with the smallest bit of embellishment on the waist or round the neckline, they feel modern and elegant. There were a couple of dresses that didn't do it for me, because I felt like I'd seen them a hundred times before, from Jenny Packham and many other designers too, but on the whole, I liked this collection, especially the black and white spotty dresses, and the black and white check sequined column gowns - very unusual !!
I also liked the two empire-line dresses she designed, one short white one and the other full length and red - they were both a beautifully flattering shape around the bust-line and I liked the sheer fabric combined with solid. On the whole, the short cocktail dresses were simple sheaths with studs adorning them in all-over patterns...
MARCHESA
This was, without doubt, one of the best Marchesa collections for a while, because it had a definite and coherent theme, instead of simply being a collection of designs in their usual amazing style...
The theme was that of 'India' and thus the show was a sumptuous feast of gloriously rich, but curiously subdued colours - chartreuse, peacock, bordeaux, or dark purpley aubergine tones, edged with gold brocades and tasseled fringing - gorgeous and decadent, these sari-inspired dresses would be perfect for any of the red carpet events that require you to make an entrance...
Interesting and dramatic make-up, with gold bits...and huge chandelier earrings !!
Lastly, one of the most dramatic looks of the show - a sheer skirt over brocade shorts - mad? - well, just a bit maybe, but it works !!
Tell me these beautiful designs won't be snatched up by the stars who thrive in the limelight, and paraded down the red carpet with style and grace over the coming months - even next Spring at the Golden Globes, the SAG Awards and of course, the Oscars...Marchesa have really come up trumps with this little lot, and I would be astounded if we didn't get to enjoy several of these very soon...
I for one, can't wait !!
Next up will be New York: part 2, featuring designs from Monique L'Huillier to Zac Posen