Dress diary Sleepy Hollow gown
As promised here is a dress diary of the black & white Sleepy Hollow gown. This gown has been on my whish-list for years. I just didn't know where to start until I've started sewing 18th century gowns. Also the costume analysis of the 'the costumer's guide to moviegowns' has been very helpfull.
For this gown I used the J.P. Ryan Robe a l'anglaise pattern. I've made the open gown with en fourreau pleating on the back (view A), but used the longer sleeves of view B. I've altered the front/side part of the bodice quite a bit. Following the costume analysus of costumer's guide I have made a stomacher with the vertical stripes. I've changed the pattern of the bodice for the diagonale stripes like this:
Instead of cutting it as one piece I've made to seperate parts, because I wanted the stripes on the front to run diagonal and on the back vertical. In the end I did not quite succeed to get the stripes right on the back, unfortunately I only noticed this after I had sewn everything together. And I wasn't in the mood to rip it all out and start again. I was quite pleased with the stripes on the front though. Here is the bit that is the front part with the diagonal stripes (I have one shoulder strap pinned to it):
This is a picture of the front part with the diagonal stripes and the side/back part with the more vertical stripes:
For the lining I used the 'normal' pattern, but cut it straight on waist hight. I didn't want the 'pointy-bit' on the lining. There was no need for that because I am going to make a stomacher.
Then it was on to the en fourreau pleating on the back. Here the pleats are still pinned. I've handsewn them after I had the whole bodice finished and the lining attached.
And here's the gown with the sleeves attached, modelled by my little boy.
Now on to the petticoat. I've used the instructions included in the J.P. Ryan pattern. It's the same skirt I wear over panniers. Quite simply it's just 2 large rectangulars with a scoop in the middle and the partly pleated to a waistband with a drawstring through it. The petticoat has quite a few ruffles and again I followed the analysis of the costumer's guide. The front of the petticoat has two rows of ruffles where the back has only one large one. This is one of the gfront ruffles. I've made boxpleats using the width of the stripes as a guide. Every boxpleat is two stripes wide.
I've tried to match the stripes of the ruffles with the stripes of the skirt as best as I could.
Front and back of the finished skirt:
Close-up of front ruffles:
Back ruffles:
Then I made all the trimmings. I've cut strips of the fabric two stripes wide (one black and one white) and treated all edges with fray check. I've also cut strips of white organza. These I didn't treat with fray check, but just let them fray. First I've sewn the organza trim on all the edges, pleating it as I went (these didn't have to be even). Then I've handgathered the black & white strips and sewn these on.
I wasn't sure about the sleeve cuffs. I wasn't really keen on the original design, but just making a sleeve flounce like any other 18th century gown didn't feel right either. In the end I did the sleeve somewhat like the moviegown.
I didn't take any pictures of the stomacher, so here is the finished gown:
The gown closes with hooks & eyes on the lining. The stomacher covers this. For the poufs I've sewn ribbons on the inside and also two little "loops" through which the ribbon goes. Pulling it up creates the poufs.
Pictures of this gown being worn will follow soon.
For this gown I used the J.P. Ryan Robe a l'anglaise pattern. I've made the open gown with en fourreau pleating on the back (view A), but used the longer sleeves of view B. I've altered the front/side part of the bodice quite a bit. Following the costume analysus of costumer's guide I have made a stomacher with the vertical stripes. I've changed the pattern of the bodice for the diagonale stripes like this:
Instead of cutting it as one piece I've made to seperate parts, because I wanted the stripes on the front to run diagonal and on the back vertical. In the end I did not quite succeed to get the stripes right on the back, unfortunately I only noticed this after I had sewn everything together. And I wasn't in the mood to rip it all out and start again. I was quite pleased with the stripes on the front though. Here is the bit that is the front part with the diagonal stripes (I have one shoulder strap pinned to it):
This is a picture of the front part with the diagonal stripes and the side/back part with the more vertical stripes:
For the lining I used the 'normal' pattern, but cut it straight on waist hight. I didn't want the 'pointy-bit' on the lining. There was no need for that because I am going to make a stomacher.
Then it was on to the en fourreau pleating on the back. Here the pleats are still pinned. I've handsewn them after I had the whole bodice finished and the lining attached.
And here's the gown with the sleeves attached, modelled by my little boy.
Now on to the petticoat. I've used the instructions included in the J.P. Ryan pattern. It's the same skirt I wear over panniers. Quite simply it's just 2 large rectangulars with a scoop in the middle and the partly pleated to a waistband with a drawstring through it. The petticoat has quite a few ruffles and again I followed the analysis of the costumer's guide. The front of the petticoat has two rows of ruffles where the back has only one large one. This is one of the gfront ruffles. I've made boxpleats using the width of the stripes as a guide. Every boxpleat is two stripes wide.
I've tried to match the stripes of the ruffles with the stripes of the skirt as best as I could.
Front and back of the finished skirt:
Close-up of front ruffles:
Back ruffles:
Then I made all the trimmings. I've cut strips of the fabric two stripes wide (one black and one white) and treated all edges with fray check. I've also cut strips of white organza. These I didn't treat with fray check, but just let them fray. First I've sewn the organza trim on all the edges, pleating it as I went (these didn't have to be even). Then I've handgathered the black & white strips and sewn these on.
I wasn't sure about the sleeve cuffs. I wasn't really keen on the original design, but just making a sleeve flounce like any other 18th century gown didn't feel right either. In the end I did the sleeve somewhat like the moviegown.
I didn't take any pictures of the stomacher, so here is the finished gown:
The gown closes with hooks & eyes on the lining. The stomacher covers this. For the poufs I've sewn ribbons on the inside and also two little "loops" through which the ribbon goes. Pulling it up creates the poufs.
Pictures of this gown being worn will follow soon.