(no subject)
Finally made human contact after getting back, night before last went to Lucia's, and had a fantastic time with people, jumping aff the balcony into the pool, and having lots of bittersweet conversation about how life as we know it is going to end very very soon. Later that night we went over to Alissa's and I got my ass kicked at poker (of course) and had a good conversation with Matt about the finer points of the "Are you nervous yet" game, and the psycology behind the different ways people play the game, but mainly about how Reese is a perverted bastard.
Had an absoutely awesome skim sesh yesterday. I was at Ledbetter for about 4 hours with Kiy, Wilson, Devin, Dustin, Miles and Jacob. Miles is rediculously good. I'm very jealous, but I'll chalk it up to me not weighing 60 pounds that he can do all that stuff. I had fun just watching him, he was busting aerial shove-its and spins and he had the best ride I have ever seen, from the point at Ledbetter, he cought a wave and rode it for like 15 seconds and made it about 50 yards down the beach and it was incredible. I got a few shots of the wave, but they don't do the ride justice. I also got somethign stuck in foot that day, and it wasn't horribly painful after I stopped thinging about and walked it off a little bit, bu it was the most disproportionate pain I've ever felt. I got a tiny peice of... something stuck in the arch of my foot, and when I stepped, I thought "oh crap, I stepped on some glass" but it was this embarrassingly small little... hair thing. It was some kind of spine smaller than a human hair but it hurt a lot. Tried to get it with tweezers on the beach but it broke off (of course) and after the initial pain, I was just uncomfortable for the rest of the day, but still had a blast.
Mike doing his thing
...with his hat
This is a pretty good representation of the break that day, except in the afternoon it was bigger. It was absolutely fantastic.
Miles on the best ride I have ever seen. 15 seconds, he just kept going.... it was unbelieveable.
Dustin on a nice wave by the point
...and Jacob about to kill Devin with a rock.
Had an absoutely awesome skim sesh yesterday. I was at Ledbetter for about 4 hours with Kiy, Wilson, Devin, Dustin, Miles and Jacob. Miles is rediculously good. I'm very jealous, but I'll chalk it up to me not weighing 60 pounds that he can do all that stuff. I had fun just watching him, he was busting aerial shove-its and spins and he had the best ride I have ever seen, from the point at Ledbetter, he cought a wave and rode it for like 15 seconds and made it about 50 yards down the beach and it was incredible. I got a few shots of the wave, but they don't do the ride justice. I also got somethign stuck in foot that day, and it wasn't horribly painful after I stopped thinging about and walked it off a little bit, bu it was the most disproportionate pain I've ever felt. I got a tiny peice of... something stuck in the arch of my foot, and when I stepped, I thought "oh crap, I stepped on some glass" but it was this embarrassingly small little... hair thing. It was some kind of spine smaller than a human hair but it hurt a lot. Tried to get it with tweezers on the beach but it broke off (of course) and after the initial pain, I was just uncomfortable for the rest of the day, but still had a blast.
Mike doing his thing
...with his hat
This is a pretty good representation of the break that day, except in the afternoon it was bigger. It was absolutely fantastic.
Miles on the best ride I have ever seen. 15 seconds, he just kept going.... it was unbelieveable.
Dustin on a nice wave by the point
...and Jacob about to kill Devin with a rock.