Micropigmentation

Mar 14, 2006 20:44




Introduction
The art of Micropigmentation (aka Dermagraphics, Permanent Make-up/ Cosmetics, Cosmetic Tattooing, Intra-dermal Implants, Derma-pigmentation) is becoming quite the rage these days. Cosmetic Tattooing is not really a new thing. It is dated back since the early 1900's but history has it that Royalty in Egypt and some women in India and Africa who have used kohl to enhance their eyes in the past, evolved into a desire for a more permanent approach. Hence, permanent eye enhancement with various substances over the years, plant and nut pigments or ground coals (carbon) inserted with fine, sharp implements. Asian history has it that pigments were inserted into the skin with bamboo. Women all over the U.S. now familiar the benefits of having permanent eyeliner, eyebrows, lip liner (with or without blend) and full lip color. And those of us who do not have dermagraphics are or have been thinking about it. Plus, those of us who do not have the best of vision are saved the hassle of squinting to apply our eyebrows. Individuals that may not have a steady hand benefit from dermagraphics. Also, persons with Alopecia, Areata universalis, Vitiligo, persons with cosmetics allergies or chemotherapy side effects and even those who are very active will benefit by having Micro- pigmentation. Not only do you save time by not having to apply eyeliner and eyebrows or whatever but you actually save yourself wrinkles from stretching your skin to apply eyeliner. Okay, the wrinkle part is my theory, but it is logical isn't it?

Permanent Cosmetics look natural if applied by a skilled technician with a soft, yet firm touch. Plus, many technicians offer topical anesthetics before and during your procedure so there is little or no discomfort. Plus there is an vast array of natural colored pigments to suit your needs be they cosmetic or reconstructive. In this section we are going to discuss the myths, the facts, the techniques, and after care. One of these days I am going to find a great technician as I am very interested in having full lip color as well as dermagraphics outside of my natural vermilion border. I have a slight asymmetry plus my lip implants have changed my natural lip border. I am also interested in getting my eyebrows done since I suffer from alopecia myself. The eyeliner will just be a little bonus and I will get it to match my natural lash line in a dot matrix or blended fashion -- not one long, obvious line. When I find my *ideal* technician pr tattoo artist I am going to tape the procedure and discuss the who, what and why of micropigmentation.

Dermagraphics: What is it?
Dermagraphics is the enhancement of the face or re-pigmentation of hypo- pigmented areas of the dermis with non-reactive, hypo-allergenic natural iron-oxide colored pigments which are implanted into the very first layers of the skin with a tattoo gun or the newer rotary pens. These pigments can be very natural looking; also available is the trendier of colors and basic cosmetic flesh-tone colors.

There are many models of these types of pens and guns, some cordless, some not, some very expensive and still others that are very basic. Technicians can be very skilled, taking a course to train with professionals and some just buying videos and manikin kits to practice on before they hit the real ones. How reassuring.

What Certifications Should a Technician Have?
Once you have made the decision to have a permanent cosmetics application you get to go through the ordeal of finding a qualified dermagraphics technician. This is about as enjoying as a root canal. It should be carried out in a similar fashion as finding a plastic surgeon or any other doctor, although not as enormous a task. Be advised there are no specific regulations in the U.S. regarding dermagraphics. Many people believe the myth that there is a specific training for cosmetic tattooing and cosmetic tattooing only. Well, I hate to divulge their secret (actually I don't hate it. ha ha! I love it!), but a tattoo is a tattoo is a tattoo -- period. Although permanent make up don't seem to last as long.

As far as the training and/or certification (which there isn't any) is they may have been taught the "Softap™" technique (which is a trademarked technique of lifting the skin to apply pigment) and are basically trained in make-up application as well and these too factors don't even apply to about 70% of the dermagraphics population. Most really good technicians are trained cosmetologists and make up artists (basically the same thing). Even some may previously have been or still is a certified registered nurse/nurse anesthetist. Although a very skilled and experienced tattoo artist with access to the more natural colored pigments can apply eyeliner and lip liner. As a matter of fact, more tattoo artists are adding permanent make up to their list of services. The only permanent cosmetic certification one receives is just the certification of the school the technician attended. Which means nothing in the real world. And even those certifications or licenses may last a matter of days (average of four). There are private organizations which provide certification for a price to carry the name and 'title.' But these are NOT state or Federally-run organizations. These are private companies. However, there are some academies which do uhold strict guidelines for their members.

Tattoo artists and cosmetic tattoo artists don't necessarily have to have a certain specific license that relates to skill either. They must get a license for having learned and having understood the values of sterilization of instruments and the importance of cleanliness and the cleanliness of their premises as well as the zoning requirements. They must also know what to do in case of infections as well as what the state law requires of them and their understanding of legal responsibility should any complications erupt from their failure to provide a sterile atmosphere and instruments. These licenses generally last one year and must be renewed, much like a manicurist or hair stylist. A license doesn't mean that technician is as artistic and as skilled as you would like, it means they took a required test and understand the basics.

In a nut shell, it is up to you to learn as much as possible about the industry, techniques and tools of the trade as you can. A good way to find a good technician is word of mouth. One option is from plastic and reconstructive surgeons and their patients. Although, you must remember that some surgeons and dermatologists work with dermagraphic technicians on a paid referral basis. Another option is asking around salons. Salons seem to be the best at this type of gossip and who is good at this and that gets around as usual, by word of mouth. Look around your health club or spa if you belong to one. See that lady with the perfect eyeliner in the steam room -- maybe she knows. Although this is not as invasive as a facelift this is your face and it is pretty much *permanent*. Choose your technician wisely.

I would like to add that like plastic surgeon consultations, make several to find the best dermagraphic technician for your permanent cosmetics application.

Inspecting Cleanliness Standards

Once you are referred a few technicians' names, visit their place of business to inspect its cleanliness. ALL aspects. There are standards for which physical cleanliness and a sanitary working environment must adhere to. These standards were set by the Center for Disease Control (CDC). Check for outward cleanliness as well as not so visible. There should be hot and cold running water on the premises where your application would take place, in addition to a public or private restroom. If the application is to take place in a salon environment, make sure it would be performed in a private room. Contaminants such as acrylic dust (from nail application) and fumes or other such products, including hairspray and even tiny bits of someone else's hair, should not be circulating in the air around you. This is an invasive procedure and there will be blood and bodily fluids that are exposed to the open air. Contaminants can increase your chances of infection.

Confirm the cleanliness and neatness of the technician. A person's work habits and personal hygiene reflect on their cleanliness. A technician should use a new pair of gloves for every client and yet another if they leave the room for any reason. the technician should change the sheet(s) on the procedure bed or chair after each client and use clean paper towels, or clean, bleached and sterile (if possible) cloth towels.

An Autoclave is a device that looks like a microwave or a pressure cooker that is used to sterilize instruments and towels. Salons normally do not have these, but every tattoo shop should. Notice the technician's hands and nails; are they clean? Ideally, short nails are a plus, but very clean and moderate length nails should be mandatory. Make sue that they use new sterile needles with every client. Or sealed, non-disposable needles that have been autoclaved. Find out where the used, disposable needles are disposed of. They should be disposed of in the proper biological waste containers. These are normally red plastic bin with swinging doors or a small hole in the top with "caution biological waste" sign and a sticker like either one of these:

on the front. Most disposable needles have plastic tubes around them to protect you from getting stuck but they should still be thrown away in a biohazardous waste fashion. If the technicians just throw the old needles in a regular trash bag with the points sticking out of the sides, go elsewhere! The biohazardous waste containment bags are red with black writing as well.

Checking the Technician's Background
As with a plastic surgeon:

* Ask for the technician's background
* How long have they been performing permanent cosmetics?
* How many procedures have they performed?
* Ask to see their "certificates of training" (although remember these generally mean nothing) and their tattoo license if required by your state.
* Also ask to see any continued education certificates from say seminars and conferences or specialty courses - this isn't necessary but some technicians learn new techniques at these continued education courses.

As with Cosmetic Surgery, this field is continually changing. Newer techniques are discovered. A dermagraphics technician should always be on the look out for additional training in their field in case they may feel a need to attend a seminar or read up on any new developments. If the technician is new ask how many hours of formal training they have had. Some attend only a one or two day (no more than 16 hours) course and I would certainly advise against that technician. Unless of course they have been performing applications for at least a year, with a steady flow of clients. The average course is five days (or 40 hours) but there are longer courses. Unfortunately, since there is no industry standard - and there should be -- a technician can learn from a video course after practicing on her manikin kit he or she can buy with the kit and possibly practice on her self or friends then go straight to your face. View an example of an At Home Dermagraphics Course. The societies for dermagraphics and what not are usually profit organizations. The technicians are charged a fee for the 'honor' of displaying a logo by the respective society and get a few yearly newsletters. Whoopie. Although they do ensure if this technician is following cleanliness, training and continued education guidelines -- you'd have to read up on the specific certification agency before passing judgment.

Important! Look through the technician's portfolio (recent photos of their work). Ask them if it is indeed their own work/clients. Ask if you may speak to any of her clients personally, like a referral list. Determine if this technician's work reflects your own cosmetic style. Is it natural? Does her work reflect a soft technique? Is it dramatic? Is she open to your wishes? Do you like the colors that the technician has to offer? Does she offer anesthetic? What types of anesthetics are available? Topical? Injectable? A injection should be performed by a nurse not a technician with only a week long course in dermagraphics. Some technicians advise to go to your dentist (or theirs) for a injection of Lidocaine. Believe it or not Marcaine is available on the Internet -- with no license required. Anyone can purchase the topicals and Marcaine injectable these days. But only go to one who is licensed to perform injections. Speaking from tattoo-experience -- it hurts on the body. I can only imagine what it feels like on the face, I'd get a topical anesthetic.

Also, find a technician who is area specific. For instance, dermagraphics application to the lip area as opposed to eyeliner or eyebrows. Only after you have viewed an extensive portfolio and have spoken with past clients should you consider a technician for lip dermagraphics. Other area specific applications to seek specialists is for cheek color (blush) or eye shadow. This is the most difficult application of all as the results can come out splotchy and uneven. Even seasoned regular tattoo artists practice for years to be able to perfect shading and blending techniques. You should choose a technician that has been in the dermagraphics industry for many years to perform your application.

The same approach should be used toward any re-pigmentation or scar camouflaging techniques. VIEW their before and after photos and inquire if they are indeed, their work. Most scars are actually quite thicker that unblemished skin and the pigment may look and act entirely different than what is desired. Thicker skin tattoos differently, as well.

Does Micropigmentation Hurt?
I cannot tell you from personal experience regarding micropigmentation although I am quite sure that it does not feel good if it is comparable to regular tattoos. Regular tattoos are NOT usually gotten with anesthetic but micropigmentation most certainly can be. Different areas are more sensitive and I am sure that the eyes, being the most sensitive area, and the lip area, will definitely feel somewhat uncomfortable. SO, thank goodness for anesthetics...

Many technicians offer some type of anesthetic. Be it topical or for those technicians in a medical profession as well, like a certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist, you will have access to injectable anesthetic strengths. Like Lidocaine which some of you receive at the dentist. Although there is a lower version of anesthetic called Marcaine available and just as effective, only for a shorter period, which is fine for this type of thing. Normally, just a topical gel or cream is sufficient to numb the implantation site.

Some Typically Used Anesthetics:
Blue Ice Gel: (topical) For use during a procedure It contains Lidocaine, tetracaine and epinephrine.
X-It Gel: (topical) For use before and during a procedure. It contains Lidocaine and Tetracaine.
Numb-All Liquid: (topical) For use before and during a procedure. It contains Lidocaine and Benzocaine.
X-Tend Liquid: (topical) For use during a procedure topical anesthetic. Contains Lidocaine.
Ak-Trol Ointment: (topical) This is an Ophthalmic (for the eyes) Ointment . It contains Dexamethasone 0.1% Neomycin Sulfate; Polymyxin B Sulfate. (prescription only)
Ak-T-Caine Solution: (topical) This is a sterile Ophthalmic (for the eyes) solution. USP (0.5%) (prescription only)
Ak-Rinse: This is a buffered eye rinse used for cleansing the eye during and after a procedure to rid the eye area of stray pigment. It contains mainly buffered saline (similar to contact cleansing solution).
Topicaine Gel: (topical) This is a non-oily 4% Lidocaine gel. It is to be applied 30 minutes before a procedure. It contains glycerin, jojoba oil, and aloe vera oil as well.
EMLA Cream: (topical) This product takes forever to work. 2 whole hours, in fact. It should be applied to the skin, 1/4 of an inch thick layer and a 1/2 an inch beyond the treatment site, and covered with saran wrap. the edges will be secured with medical tape to prohibit leakage. The skin only remains numb for about an hour after removal of the saran wrap and product.
Ela-Max: (topical) Like the above, but cheaper, faster, better and available over the counter. And it doesn't have to be covered (occluded).
Prepcaine Crean: (topical) For use before a procedure. It is very powerful and it widely used for the dermagraphics industry. It contains 2% lidocaine, 1.5% tetracaine in a cream base. Make sure the technician doesn't get it in your eyes or mouth.
Sustaine Gel: (topical) Unlike Prepcaine, Sustaine is not used prior to a procedure. It is ineffective on unbroken skin. It is used after outlining a tattooing, or during a permanent cosmetics procedure to aid in numbing the area. It also contains epinephrine to reduce bruising and swelling swelling. It contains 4% lidocaine 2% tetracaine and .02% epinephrine
Liquidcaine liquid: (topical) This is an odorless, non-stinging liquid used during a procedure. It "numbs" the area within 90 seconds of application. It can be used for sunburn and laser surgery as well. It is used to irrigate areas of implantation except for eyeliner. It is NOT SAFE FOR EYE AREA.
WARNING! Some technicians are adding Liquidcaine to the pigments for added anesthetic properties. (Except for the eye area) The manufacturer even advises it. The FDA advises against it:
"One of the sites on the internet suggests the use of mixing Liquidcaine 4% with pigment during application of Permanent Cosmetics procedure. This procedure is DANGEROUS. Liquidcaine is a 4% topical anesthetic. Studies have shown that concentrations used for injection greater than 2% actually cause cell necrosis." (kills cells)
U. S. Food and Drug Administration
Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition
Office of Cosmetics Fact Sheet
February 3, 1995

Micropigmentation Myths & Facts:
Myth: Permanent cosmetics is not the same as a regular tattoo.
Fact: Permanent cosmetics is tattooing, period. Organizations and schools like The American Academy Of Micropigmentation, The Society of Permanent Cosmetics Professionals, Permanent Cosmetics Institute, Permanent Cosmetics Information and Professional Education and others in the permanent cosmetics industry agree that no matter what it is called or what type equipment is used - it is, in fact, tattooing. And don't let anyone tell you any different.

MYTH: You need to go to someone who is certified to apply permanent cosmetics, never a regular tattoo artist.
FACT: This is said best by Pacific Tattoo..."There is no true certification available. There is at this time no nationally recognized certification or licensing of permanent makeup artists. There is no industry-wide, non-partisan, non-profit certification of any kind. All certifications are granted either by a "school," usually lasting a matter of days, where someone has paid a fee, or by a larger group which also charges a fee for taking an "exam." Artists who advertise that they are certified may not know that their certification has no meaning outside of that school."

IMPORTANT: "Individual states do license or do not license tattoo artists and permanent makeup artists as they see fit. This licensing usually only addresses whether the artist demonstrates adequate knowledge of sterilization and sanitation practices, and in no way evaluates artistic or technical skill. The state of California will be licensing tattoo artists and permanent makeup artists by the beginning of next year. The guidelines have not yet been finalized."

"Pacific Tattoo has been inspected and licensed by the city of San Francisco's Health Department and maintains a current Health Department permit to operate." You should check out their site for photos of some great re-pigmentation photos, especially areola re-pigmentation.

Myth: A Dermagraphics pen or gun is completely different than a regular tattoo artist's tattoo gun.
Fact: No, they just want you to believe that. A tattoo gun is a tattoo gun. No matter if it is the new fancy cordless pen types or a traditional tattoo gun. The ink is still implanted into the skin by the use of a needle, or needles or other sharp object that forces the pigment into the epidermis. Some are far more expensive and look more streamlined and may be quieter than a traditional gun but it is still a tattooing device.

Myth: The traditional tattoo gun's needle penetrates much deeper than a dermagraphics pen. Resulting in scar tissue and a more permanent application.
Fact: Wrong! It depends on the technician/artist. The Softap™ technique taught to some dermagraphics technicians is also utilized sometimes in blending and shading techniques by highly skilled traditional tattoo artists. This also goes for finely detailed work as well. Although the name has been trademarked -- the method is practiced everywhere resulting from experimentation for what works best for whom.

Myth: Anyone can have permanent cosmetics applied.
Fact: No. Of course it varies by state, but say in California, Louisiana and North Carolina and most other states, you must be 18 years of age to receive a tattoo. Read here for an example:

CALIFORNIA CODES: PENAL CODE SECTION 639-653.1
653. Every person who tattoos or offers to tattoo a person under the age of 18 years is guilty of a misdemeanor. As used in this section, to tattoo means to insert pigment under the surface of the skin of a human being, by pricking with a needle or otherwise, so as to produce an indelible mark or figure visible through the skin. This section is not intended to apply to any act of a licensed practitioner of the healing arts performed in the course of his practice.

The above holds for everyone except doctors offering re-pigmentation for reconstruction purposes. Although, a parental consent form is normally signed regarding this.

Myth: Permanent cosmetic technicians do not need a tattooing license because dermagraphics is not permanent.
Fact: First off, Permanent cosmetics IS permanent. Just because you need touch ups doesn't mean it isn't permanent. Most people with standard tattoos need touch ups. Especially with full black ink work. Even colored inks fade. Especially with repeat sun exposure. Your face tends to exfoliate faster than your body. Ever notice your face gets pale much faster than your body. Plus we are always smearing stuff such as AHA's, Retin A, etc. on our faces for that very reason! You will fade faster hear in general although the permanency can very well depend upon the technician or tattoo artist.

Second, It varies by state but there is nary a state who doesn't try cash in on something that is making another money. Why would you think this would be different? Most states require you to have tattooing license. Mostly for our sake if you can believe it. A license can be applied for and the fees sent in but then an inspector comes out to check out the requirements and also zoning must be determined. Plus sanitary needs must be met. I believe getting licensed to tattoo is a great idea. But being certified to perform micropigmentation is a whole different ballgame. Remember there is no bona fide, state or federal-run dermagraphics certification agency, per se. Use your best judgment.

What Procedures Are Available?
For The Eye Area:
Our eyelids are so very delicate, especially the lid margin. This area is the most sensitive area of the face. Unfortunately, nature doesn't provide us much play in this area either. If we tug on it excessively or smoke or blink or breathe or ANYTHING we get wrinkles there first. Joy. If this area is traumatized it may result in partial or complete loss of the eyelashes. If we take certain medications (i.e. antibiotics) we risk losing the eyelashes for several months, if not forever.

Eyelashes
We all know that eyelashes have a purpose other than just making us more beautiful. However, I am not a camel nor do I live in Egypt so, who cares!?! It's not like the times I have been in a sand storm (in Vegas) my lashes did any real good other than looking fabulous with a really great coat or two of mascara. Thus my point, we need eyelashes for our eyes to look more pleasant and appealing. Some women have a condition that disallows the growth of eyelashes. Perhaps it is persons with Alopecia and even those individuals who are undergoing chemo- therapy. These individuals will certainly benefit from dermagraphics should they need the illusion of having eyebrows and eyelashes for a symmetrical appearance. The eyebrows, especially, help give symmetry to the face.

There is a dermagraphics procedure sometimes referred to as blepharo-pigmentation, which simulates eyelashes. It is performed using a micro needle and the pigment is implanted in a dot-like matrix fashion into the lid margin (base of the eyelashes). The pigment is placed a little deeper, into the dermis. This way when the epidermis is healed, the look is a more translucent one, very natural. Other than that they line the lash line to give the illusion of a thick eyelash line. You will more than likely need anesthetic for this one. I personally like the smudgy look combined with a dot matrix pattern. I don't like the obvious lines.

Eyeliner
I must admit, I LOVE eyeliner and I feel absolutely naked without it! It is my belief that if one should choose to have permanent eyeliner, they should match as closely to the natural eyelash color as possible. This way it is a very natural look that can be covered by other colors should you choose to wear a coffee, iron gray or darker green color. And if you are pale blonde or Caucasian, period, I am told you should not pick black. I mean people do choose this and for some it works out, but when viewed through your skin tone it may look rather ashy or even bluish or greenish. I like when dermagraphics are applied to the lash lines, especially on the top lash line. Some people will get their inner lids (the brim) tattooed, Ouch! I think this gives the appearance of a smaller, more beady, eye. I think the eyes look so much better when they have darker, or at least thicker, lash line. I can't wait to have this performed. One more thing... some technicians incorporate a dot matrix pattern on the lash lines, I think this looks rather horrible if they apply thick dots. A micro needle should be used for this application although I still prefer a smudgy, thinly lined look here.

Eyebrows
They say the eyebrows are the frame of the face. Well, I can speak from experience that losing your eyebrows, quite frankly, stinks. Plus it took me forever to learn what shape was flattering for me and how to apply that shape day in and day out. It isn't as easy as it sounds. If you have nothing with which to guide you, you are going to have a hard time producing a flattering look. There are many stencils you can purchase to guide your pencils or better yet, eyebrow powders applied with an angled brush, for a natural result. Besides most of these stencils are absolutely HUGE for my face and I look like a clown if I use them. If the hassle of daily application and the inconvenience of accidentally wiping them off or smudging them just gets old. Then eyebrow dermagraphics is definitely for you. That will be my first permanent make up procedure for sure.

Some technicians use the individual hair-like strokes technique. I favor this technique because is looks rather natural, but only if the pigment is a softer, lighter color. Some even use 2 to 3 colors with may occur naturally in natural eyebrows. The technician should determine the hair color and skin tones in pigment selection.

Some of you have been drawing your eyebrows incorrectly and do not know it. Don't be ashamed, I did it for almost a year - although I looked like an idiot and didn't know it. This way I am telling to to reevaluate your eyebrow shapes so you will know better. Yes learn from MY mistakes so you don't have to . A good technician will discuss the best eyebrow shape for you and apply powders or pencil for you to visualize the new shape. Perhaps you should take a digital or Polaroid camera (do they make those still? Didn't they go out of business?) with you to your consultation to take photos for you to reflect upon before deciding. Remember this is permanent, so steer clear of the crazy looking trends or unrealistic super high arches. No one wants a dated look. And no one wants to look like an idiot either.

For Other Facial Areas:
Lip Liner
This can even out your asymmetries, if you have them, or give the appearance of a more defined lip. A lip liner implantation can also be made to look even more natural by apply a blended look. The really good technicians are able to do this quite well. Remember that fashionable colors change with the tides. So, don't choose a pale sky or deep plum color this week because you saw it on the run way at a DKNY show. You must realize you will be stuck with this forever.

Full Lip Color
This procedure is a combination of lip liner and and a fill in. You can even get the area (vermilion border) tattooed outside the lines to give the appearance of larger, poutier lips. This is what I want, as well as to correct my asymmetry. Your lips WILL peel afterwards and look rather icky for a week. Aquaphor keeps butt AFTER you heal to keep them moist. Don't put it on your lips when you are healing and have open wounds. It has petrolatum in it and isn't meant for broken skin.

Beauty Mark
I cannot believe how much they charge for a dot. If you do want a beauty mark, the normal places are, of course, above the lip, off to the outer corner (think Cindy Crawford, Marilyn Monroe) and under the eyes, off to the outer corner . I actually have a VERY tiny raised light, light toffee-colored one right under the outside of my right eye. If it were bigger, I'd remove it but it is practically imperceptible.

Cleft Lip Asymmetries
As with any lip asymmetry, persons afflicted with a cleft lip condition scar can have it corrected and re-pigmented. Thereby camouflaging the area creating a sense of normalcy. This is an advanced technique and a specialist should be sought.

Eye shadow
Although I do not recommend this type of micropigmentation, it is offered. The reason I do not recommend it is that styles and color preferences change and if your preferences don't change, it should. You will look dated if you wear the same color eyes shadow over and over again. Think about this one before you decide to implant permanent pigments into your eyelids. This is a specialty application as well as it requires skilled blending and a light translucent placement (deep in the dermis) to produce a translucent effect.

Blush
This is the exact same concept as the eye shadow technique (directly above). Seek out a specialist for this type of application. The downsides are splotchiness from incorrect application to splotchiness from your own face's pattern of natural exfoliation or your product usage. Choose wisely.

Body Dermagraphics
Areola Re-pigmentation
Re-pigmentation to the areola (the dark pink skinned areas surrounding the nipple) is a procedure that is changing the lives of those who have had breast reconstruction surgery or a mastectomy. The scars can be re-pigmented with colors matching the clients skin tone to bring back a feeling of normalcy. Sometimes entire nipples are simulated giving many women their esteem back.

Some women may have scars from breast augmentation around their areolas or simply desire larger areolas. With permanent cosmetics, that is now possible.

Scars
Scars and hypopigmentation (lack of color) can be re-pigmented by implanting flesh toned colored pigments to those particular areas. The pigments chosen are carefully matched to your own skin tone and are blended into the dermis.

Available Colors That Are Typically Used

* Medium brown pigments are best for a subtle, natural, appearance.
* Brown, black and gray pigments are used for a dramatic appearance.
* Note: Black pigment is sometimes not recommended for Caucasian clients as it may change to a blue or gray hue on most individuals.
* Warning: Organic pigments must not be used around the eyes.

Remember learning about the primary colors in art class? The primary colors being red, yellow and blue and learning when you mix certain primaries you get secondary colors? You know, blue and yellow make green, green being a secondary.

*Important Note: The little known fact with micropigmentation is that when pigment is implanted into an individual's skin, the knowledge of skin tone and the application of this knowledge is essential. You have heard that perhaps your skin tone is yellow with undertones of olive. Well, your skin's dominant hue (referred to as skin tone) and secondary hue (referred to as an undertone) must be taken into account when choosing pigments for implantation. This is where it may be beneficial to seek the application by a highly skilled dermagraphics technician. Some tattoo artists may be fabulous artists, per se, but if they implant a natural colored pigment should they decide to use them, they must take your skin tone and undertones into account. Why? you ask. Well, the color that is implanted (tattooed) into the skin will be viewed through your skin tone. Meaning that the color of the your skin tone becomes a part of the color equation. Unfortunately, failure to do so, will result in a color variance that the client, that being you, will not like.

How This Procedure Is Performed...
Any type of tattoo is applied by using a small electric device (a traditional gun, rotary pen, machine coil, Softap™, or by hand) with a needle bar that holds usually from 1 to 14 needles, each in its own little tube, to implant colored pigments *Note: Tattoo needles are regulated by the FDA.

The tattooing device basically works like a miniature sewing machine: the needle bar moves up and down really fast, forcing the needles into the superficial (epidermis) and middle layer (dermis) of the skin, implanting whatever colored pigment the technician dips the tip into. The technician holds the machine with a steady hand while guiding it along the skin. The speed and power is controlled by a foot switch or pedal, much like a sewing machine.

The needles penetrate the skin only a fraction of a millimeter or so as the tube restricts the needle(s) from penetrating any deeper. A single needle (sometimes a micro-needle) is used to make a very fine, delicate line. A row of needles (from 4 up to 36, although usually 14 in permanent make up) is used for shading and more dense fills. From experience with traditional tattoos, I'd like to add that although it seems like the shading would hurt far worse (because of the multiple needles) is quite the opposite. Outlining is by far the most painful. I don't know if this is because it goes in deeper or what but it can make you clench your fists sometimes.

The end of the needle tube is dipped in a small amount of ink that is usually kept in a little ink cap best described as a clear plastic miniature dish that looks like an upside down top hat. The technician guides the machine over the skin and the needle(s) move up and down, penetrating the skin, implanting the pigment. Excess pigment and blood, or other bodily fluids, ooze out from the puncture wounds and the technician wipes them off with an absorbent disposable towel, repeatedly. This enables the technician to better see what he or she is doing. Sometimes they also rub on a little A&D ointment as well which certainly keeps you from bleeding or oozing as much, soothes the skin and helps keep germs at bay. It truly is an awesome product and most traditional tattoo artists use it exclusively.

Virtual Micropigmentation Experience
Prior to getting a tattoo, the technician puts on a pair of latex gloves or other types if you or he/she has a latex allergy and inspects your skin to make sure you have no cuts, scrapes or other types of broken skin. T he area is either swabbed with alcohol or sprayed with an antiseptic solution or both and the technician shaves the area of any and all hair with a disposable razor (unless of course you are getting eyebrows or eyelashes off course!). This is usually a traditional tattoo practice. The razors and towels used for wiping your bodily fluids should also be disposed of in the same type of biohazardous waste container.

Then, the technician transfers a stencil of the tattoo (your desired design) onto your skin. Some technicians may draw it on with a pen. You are then asked to verify the placement, position and so forth of the design you are about to implant into your skin forever. If everything is good then a thin layer of A&D ointment, or other same type ointment, is spread over the area to be tattooed.

The level of pain really depends on the individual. Some people's pain threshold (or tolerance) is high while others are quite low. The level of pain also depends on the tattoo site. Cosmetic Tattooing can be completed per area in under a half an hour. If you are having more than one area/procedure it may take a few hours or maybe another sitting (you come back another time).

When the technician has completed your design the tattoo is sprayed with water and antiseptic and wiped off. A layer of Bacitracin, A&D or 'Tattoo Goo' ointment is applied over the tattoo and you are instructed to wash it no more than twice a day with mild soap and water and apply hand cream or Bacitracin or A&D ointment as needed (no Vaseline!) If it is a normal tattoo they wash and apply the Basictracin or A&D ointment the same as permanent cosmetics but place a non-stick gauze pad over the site and instruct you to remove it that night (no more than 12 hours!). Sometimes they don't even cover it although this depends upon how deep, which area and if you are weeping significantly. You will wash it gently with mild soap and apply hand cream or Bacitracin or A&D ointment as needed. Do not apply more gauze to the area, leave it exposed to the air so that it can begin to heal but keep the area moist with ointment until the healing is almost complete. It takes about a week (usually seven to ten days) for a tattoo to heal. Until then, you should not apply cosmetics over the area and NO PEROXIDE!!! You'll bubble the healing skin and ink away. No peeling of the area either! If it flakes, let it flake. You will pull pigment right out of the tattoo resulting in splotchiness.

Do NOT expose your tattoo to direct sunlight for at least two weeks -- although preferably much longer is better. If you do, you may get sunburn or changes in pigment (i.e. color fade). Use sunscreen like it's going out of style . Do NOT swim for two weeks, period. That goes for fresh, salt or chlorinated water. This could cause pigment fade as well. You should always apply sunblock if you expose your tattoo to sunlight (this means "artificial light", too). Indoor Tanning machines will fade your tattoo as well.

Touch ups? Oh yeah, it is quite normal. I had touch ups on a few of my tats (there ya go, some body art lingo). No biggie. You're seasoned now, no more rookie! You're tough! You can take it. Touch ups are not usually long at all, although I suggest anesthetic again for lips and/or eye lid areas. That's gotta hurt!

Price$: The $ad Truth
Nothing is reasonable any more. Permanent Cosmetics is EXPENSIVE! Wanna know something? Here I go again, exposing people's trade secrets... The average pen machines are only $250.00 US, the better ones, $1,200 US and the pigments are about $18.50 US for a bottle, which gets many uses. The below prices are in U.S. dollars.

Standard procedures:
Eyeliner: $300 to $1000
Eyebrows: $400 to $1500
Lip liner: $400 to $600
Full Lip Color: $700 to $1600
Beauty Mark: $50 to $150
Scar re-pigmentation or camouflaging: $50 to $100 per 15 minutes
Areola Pigmentation: $50 to $100 per 15 minutes

Can Permanent Cosmetics Be Removed?
How about with a laser or chemicals? Unfortunately in some cases, permanent cosmetics can not be removed with a laser. The laser removal procedure isn't cheap. Presently, I am having a tattoo removed and it is taking years, not to mention it is very expensive. Read more on my tattoo removal procedure. Believe it or not, glycolic acid is showing some removal properties. You'd think if a laser wouldn't do it, glycolic acid surely won't. But these days and with the newer pigments it is getting pretty easy. Just be careful. Older pigments can just turn a different and very odd color. Read More On Tattoo Removal Now!

This was reported by the FDA:
"Laser tattoo removal can convert an old tattoo into an allergic pigment reaction. There are a couple of articles that come up and the abstracts refer to the breakdown of pigment that was originally non-allergenic into a color (red) that IS allergenic."
U. S. Food and Drug Administration
Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition
Office of Cosmetics Fact Sheet
February 3, 1995

What about Dermabrasion?
While this often produces a scar in the shape of the tattoo itself, it does work. it isn't very expensive and it will not change the color. They supposedly can dermabrade a tattoo completely away on one session. Although a lighter session will produce less scarring. I am sure they will come up with something more effective in the future. So it may be worth waiting.

Just What Does Para-Medical Mean?
It means they charge you more. Simply because they are performed by a physician, nurse, dermatologist or specialized clinic or just in their office and because they can. It does not mean they are better, That para-medical technician may not have the training and experience of that lady down the way at the salon you had a consult with. Being a para-medical technician quite frankly means 'diddly' -- with the exception of access to good meds. Although it does mean you can get a nerve block or injectable anesthetic because of what office they are in and if they are licensed to do so.

Will I Develop An Allergy To The Ink?
Allergic reactions to permanent cosmetics are quite rare. You may request a skin patch test in an inconspicuous area prior to having a procedure performed. Some technicians are very routine about patch testing and perform them on everyone. Regardless, you should understand that an allergic reaction could occur at any time. Be prepared to pay for the needle and the time the technician will have to use westernizing all the equipment and what not.

In Conclusion
Like I said before, this isn't as invasive as a facelift or breast augmentation but it is invasive and it is permanent. Think about this before you decide to go through with it. If you don't like it, you are stuck with it. It reminds me of everyone getting a Taz tattoo and then regretting it later, except this in on your face. And there's no hiding that (except with more make-up). And if you do get permanent cosmetics, send me some photos, I'd love to see it!

Just as a general interest point, in case anyone was wondering what it was. Info from here.

micropigmentation, tattoos, body modification

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