Big Blue
Meet my new ultra-wide 18th century petticoat! It is step-two in creating my court gown - an under-petticoat to wear over my wide hoops that I posted about previously.
It has draw-cords in the side/top seams so I can pull them in and wear with narrower hoops, and in that case, I might wear it on its own. A draw-cord can be seen in extant examples like this one I pinned: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/205758276697444313/ And here is an example of pleating onto a yoke: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/205758276702211128/
I basically used the Mantua Maker pattern, which is based on the Queen Louisa Ulrica of Sweden petticoat in the National Armoury in Stockholm. I know that because I compared the Mantua Maker one to the pattern of Queen Louisa Ulrica's in Payne's History of Costume. I made a few adjustments: smooth sides, excluded a hem-guard since it is ankle length, and added a wide ruffle. I was totally inspired to do that when I saw girliegirl32786's post last fall that showed her petticoat. http://girliegirl32786.livejournal.com/551534.html In my research, I saw lots of examples of mid-century petticoats with ruffles (though under-petticoats are impossible to find unless they are quilted), so I went for it. I expect my short boned-hoops will need the extra oomph at the hem-line, even though my planned court dress is very square.
The fabric is a very nice glazed cotton from my stash. The tight weave made it slow and difficult to hand-sew, but I persevered! My only real dissatisfaction is the width of the waistbands that makes them lay funny. Easy to fix, but I'm not up to it right now!
It has draw-cords in the side/top seams so I can pull them in and wear with narrower hoops, and in that case, I might wear it on its own. A draw-cord can be seen in extant examples like this one I pinned: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/205758276697444313/ And here is an example of pleating onto a yoke: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/205758276702211128/
I basically used the Mantua Maker pattern, which is based on the Queen Louisa Ulrica of Sweden petticoat in the National Armoury in Stockholm. I know that because I compared the Mantua Maker one to the pattern of Queen Louisa Ulrica's in Payne's History of Costume. I made a few adjustments: smooth sides, excluded a hem-guard since it is ankle length, and added a wide ruffle. I was totally inspired to do that when I saw girliegirl32786's post last fall that showed her petticoat. http://girliegirl32786.livejournal.com/551534.html In my research, I saw lots of examples of mid-century petticoats with ruffles (though under-petticoats are impossible to find unless they are quilted), so I went for it. I expect my short boned-hoops will need the extra oomph at the hem-line, even though my planned court dress is very square.
The fabric is a very nice glazed cotton from my stash. The tight weave made it slow and difficult to hand-sew, but I persevered! My only real dissatisfaction is the width of the waistbands that makes them lay funny. Easy to fix, but I'm not up to it right now!