to catch up on posting? How about with a dress. On April 30th I finished my stripey polonaise and moved on to the next phase of my Tudor outfit. I had previously finished the smock and the red wool petticoat, so next I made the kirtle.
I was going to make it all out of the black silk taffeta I got for it, but I made an impulse purchase of this synthetic flocked taffeta and decided to give it a try. I only did the front panel and the bottom 3" of the back panel in the patterned fabric, so incase I hated it, I could just change it out for the silk taffeta. I actually really like how it turned out!
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It is almost fully hand stitched. I started out using linen buckram in the bodice for stiffening, but was afraid it would buckle and I'd end up unhappy with it, so I put in some cane bones too. The interlining is muslin and the lining is black linen. The pattern came from Tudor Tailor, though unfortunately not from the custom pattern I made in Ninya's and Jane's workshop, because that is still in storage. sigh. I am very happy with the fit, but probably could have made it a touch smaller.
That completed, I moved on to the fitted English jacket (also Tudor Tailor). Here is where the screams of torture begin from the wool satin. Ugh! I still have to trim the jacket and add hooks and eyes to the center front, but it is wearable. I'm not completely happy with the fit - it feels a little small. The sleeves are a tad short and it keeps creeping off my shoulders. I also pinned it with a v-shape in front, since it didn't want to close comfortably. I'm wondering if all the steam I used to get the fabric to cooperate might have shrunk it a tad. I did pre-steam it before cutting, but I used a LOT of steam and ironing during assembly. Hmmm. Well, I've lost a little more weight, so when I go back to it to trim, I'll see if it is any different. It is mostly hand-sewn, lined with black linen, and has pockets on the seams. The lining fabric dropped a lot when I hung it to before hemming; or it is further evidence that there was some shrinkage after cutting. I love the color and the satin was worth the effort. :)
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I'm wearing it here with a cap I borrowed from
myladyswardrobe, and my new broach I bought from her sister at the Pointoise market. Oh and my new custom shoes? The most comfortable shoes I have EVAHR owned! I've had some foot trouble lately, and the day I wore them I was actually pain-free. Miracle shoes. (I've just ordered a pair of ox-blood red poulaines next... )