Jul 06, 2004 00:23
I just watched a surfing documentary called "step into the liquid". Its made by the same guys who made endless summer. I just want to say that surfing is probobly the best thing that has happened to me this summer. Now I may sound cheesy, but I never really "got" surfing until I tried it. I just learned how to stand up and turn with the wave. This has probobly taken me about 20-25 surf sessions to finally get down. I still suck pretty bad but I am so STOKED about surfing. The feeling of taking a wave is the best feeling in the world. You feel like a king every single time you take off. No matter how many times you ride it never gets old. I want to thank my brother for getting me out there and teaching me all he knows. I am still learning but I feel like I am going to do this forever. I am sad that I have to start the fire academy in august because that will take away from my surf time. I have been bitten by the surf bug and I love it. I wish that I could give my surfing experience to everyone to enjoy because its that awsome. If you are reading this you need to try surfing because I know you will love it. Dont diss on surfing untill you have tried it because you have no idea what you are missing. Those of you who think I sound like a poser and I dont know what I am talking about can go to hell. You know why? Its my journal and I can write whatever the fuck I want. Just to prove my point I write this: BUSH RULES!!! FUCK KERRY, FUCK MICHAEL MOORE, FUCK LIBERALS. Thats right mother fuckers I am conservative and I love it. So I am going to go polish my gun and celebrate my right to bear arms. Hang Ten!!!