Vehicle Stuffs
So I have been doing some research here, and talking to a coworker recently, found out that my Blazer might qualify for the CARS government program. Some things I'm gonna have to look into include what kind of loan I'll be able to get, but also what vehicle I should get to replace it. At the moment, from the Read more... )
Trust roo on the technologically cool factor, and just figure out if you like it.
The HQ for suzuki US is right next door to my office. Nice people, I bump into them at subway for lunch.
Its really tiny, turns on a dime and will plow through the snow like its nothing.... get upgraded snow tires on steelies tossed into the deal (roo can make this happen by phone if you want ;))
Plus it qualifies for the maximum rebate.
SO heres what fenrix shall need to do.
1. Find something he likes
2. Negotiate, thier first generous offer is BS. Say "no, the guy over at the ford dealership did alot better than that"
a) YOU run your credit report. NEVER let the dealership do so. Trust me on this, I know, I was a car salesman, and one of the best on my lot. I dont care what they say, its a lie, they do not need your credit score to get a better offer from the owner, or to show your serious. EVERYONE is loooking to sell and even if you have perfect credit, they will fuck you and lie about your score.
3. Follow above
4. The average markup on a car new on the lot is about 2k from what the dealership paid. There is a rebate on most cars plus a 2k cush zone below invoice. The invoice they show you is never the real one.
Example
16,000$ car on lot new
-2,000$ markup from invoice
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14,000$ car
-2,500$ rebate they *might tell you about*
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11,500$ car - this is a reasonable zone that you can expect to pay for any car at 16k reguardless, if its new, 11.5-12.5 is honorable negotiating everyone gets a slice. Now if your a dick like me, you know about the 1,000$ to 2,000$ additional incentive for the dealership just INCASE.
This is thesneaky side of car sales. I will post in my LJ with this info and a bit more
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