Think Tank Review

Oct 04, 2010 23:19

Yum!

That's the summary, but I’ll elaborate for those who'd like to know more.

The first thing that I noticed about Think Tank is that these are very understanding folk. Half-blinded by torrential rain, I’d taken a wrong turn and ended up getting to the Kendall Square restaurant 15 minutes after our reservation. My dining companion was also running late and had not arrived, yet the hostess welcomed me warmly and seated me immediately.

While waiting for my friend to join me, I had a Black Manhattan. If you think of Manhattans as somewhat sweet, think again. The Think Tank Black Manhattan emphasizes the interplay of whiskey and bitters, combining Rittenhouse Rye and Meletti Amaro with barrel-aged bitters. This is a drink for those who love bitters and like their whiskey with more character than sweetness. Count me in!

With the Black Manhattan, I enjoyed the Naan flatbread. This garlic-scented flatbread is very lightly toasted, making it crispy yet tender. There’s just enough garlic to warm the flavor, but not so much that the taste of the bread itself is overwhelmed. It arrives cut into wedges for easy sharing and accompanied by edamame hummus. The pale green of the hummus and the barely-there golden hue of the flatbread are lovely together. The cool freshness of the edamame and the warm pungency of the garlic also pair beautifully.

When my friend arrived, she ordered the Asian greens. I decided not to order another dish before my entree because I didn’t want to over-indulge, but changed my mind when I saw the look on her face at the first bite. She proved herself a true friend by offering to split the order. The baby greens were so fresh they seemed just-picked and were fragrant with cilantro and fresh mint. The crunchy, paper-thin, radish slices added a spicy note. The salad was very lightly dressed with yuzu caramel vinaigrette, a delightful pairing of bright citrus and sweet brown notes.

We both succumbed to the lure of the bistro steak, a hanger steak sauced with mushroom demi-glace, which came with sautéed spinach and sweet potato fries. Hangar steak, although flavorful, can sometimes be a bit tough. That definitely was not a problem here. Both our steaks came out perfectly medium rare and meltingly tender. The classic combination of earthy mushroom with rich beef was as delicious as anticipated. The accompanying spinach sautéed with garlic added further earthiness, which was balanced by just the right touch of sweetness from the sweet potato fries. I was particularly pleased that the fries had been treated with the simplicity they deserved, being cooked quickly so that the sugars in the potato caramelized, then served with only a light sprinkling of salt.

For dessert we had the “coffee and donuts” (Turkish coffee mousse and warm beignet). The beignet were in the New Orleans tradition: squares of rich dough puffed into little pillows of air and deliciousness, lightly dusted with powdered sugar. In New Orleans, the sugar is applied with a heavy hand. This lighter dusting allows the pastry to shine through. The mousse was rich and silky, with just a touch of coarse salt working its magic to bring out the flavor and sweetness by contrast.

The service here is attentive but not intrusive. Our waiter, Ian S., was knowledgeable and engaging, and Mitch, one of the partners, not only stopped by to see how we were doing, but stayed to chat a bit. Together, they made us feel as though we were long-time regulars rather than newcomers on our first visit.

When I arrived shortly after seven, the place was rocking. So much so, I was a little concerned about whether my friend and I would be able to converse. But around seven thirty it quieted down a bit, although it remained lively. In retrospect, I remembered that there’s a DJ from 5 to 8 for the after-work crowd and live entertainment later in the evening. So if you’re looking for excitement and entertainment as well as excellent food and drink, your best bets are either from 5 to 8 or after 10 p.m., and if you want a quieter dining experience, then between 8 and 10 is for you.

Prices are also flexible. You can enjoy a drink and a satisfying snack for not very much or spend a bit more for a multi-course meal. Drinks range from $4 to $12, starters from $7 to $12, trending toward the low end of that range, sandwiches and flatbreads from $8 to $14, entrees from $15 to $24, and desserts around $7.

There were too many interesting dishes on Think Tank’s menu to try on a single visit. But that just gives me more to look forward to when I return, as I certainly will.

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