The first stop on our tour of
Guilin in the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region of China included a 4-hour detour to the
Detian Falls which
straddle Vietnam and
China. As it was the dry season, the falls were rather
sparse, but worth the trip.
We spent the next day travelling to Guilin City, with various stops on the Two Rivers (Li and Taohua) and Four Lakes (两江四湖) that provided water and transport to the city before population explosion and silting rendered the system inadequate. Almost everything is illuminated at night, including the
Sun and Moon Towers on the Shanhu Lake, and various
buildings and bridges.
Leaving the city, we travelled into the mountains to a
village of the Zhuang people, there to literally sing for our supper: the
Zhuang are accomplished singers whose voices must carry across their
hill settlements and
terrace farms.
The Zhuang, and other autonomous people in the Guangxi Region, are featured in Impressions of Liu San Jie(印象刘三姐), which has nothing to do with the eponymous folk heroine, being a
sound-and-lights show (originally directed by Zhang Yimou) with
traditional performances against the
natural mountainous backdrop.
Passing from mountains to rivers, we took a
raft trip down the part of the
Li River that flows through the city of Yangshuo, which with its
undulating mountains, is
more scenic than its counterpart in Guilin. Both stretches of river have their unique fauna: a
camel in Yangshuo, and an
elephant in Guilin. Along the Yangshuo side, we were able to see
cormorant fishing, now practiced by
local fishermen and
their helpers for tourist yuan.
Our last major stop, and the highlight of the trip, was the
Silver Cave (银子岩), a karst cave near Yangshuo. The cave was illuminated by
coloured lights, with walkways at various
levels and
reflections in a clear pool of groundwater. Along the 2.3 km walkway are formations with fanciful names such as
The Heavenly Music Screen,
The Solitary Sky-Supporting Pillar,
General Li's Divine Umbrella, the
Husband and Wife Pillars, as well as lovely representations of nature like a
garden and a
waterfall in winter, and
more earthy specimens.