summer surf update
the surf has been pretty good. went out in del mar yesterday after work. the water is still very warm. possibly the warmest its been all summer. funny thing is, the weather has finally turned chillier over the last few days. the weather in general in san diego is so strange. one minute it's summer and one day later it's fall. Colors changing and all. And when i say colors, i mean shades of brown. so anyway, the surf was fun. nice big set waves out of the north. the water at sunset was a beautiful purple/gray/blue color. saw a huge fish jump. the last wave of the day i killed it and was still making turns practically onshore. have also still been hitting la jolla at lunch. it has been completely nuts for the past two months in regards to tourists. i've been having to park half illegally many times. the Fit is wonderful at this. it almost fits in the tightest spots. luckily i have yet to get a ticket even though i've been hugging many red curbs. things changed this week however. got down to the beach on monday and the tourists are gone! it was a fantastic sight to behold. bright sun shining day and just a sprinkling of people on the beach and absolutely no surfing learners. don't get me wrong i don't have a problem with noobs, especially at a place like la jolla shores (and considering everyone has to learn sometime) but it is still great they are gone. unfortunately this NW swell was walling and dumping right on the beach. quick, steep drops. had a freaky moment when i exited a smaller wave, popped up to grab my board and the stupid thing is still flying through the air. worse still, the tip is starting to fall towards my face. i did a quick dodge and the board did miss me, it was still a quirky close call.
this picture is from earlier in the summer at a different la jolla break that i hadn't surfed before. it's a weird wave that breaks just offshore over a piece of reef. it's not your run of the mill wave and i had to handle it really cautiously. that is me paddling out.