realizations
have been surfing a ton recently. bob mentioned how i must be really good because i go out so much. i wish this was true. i would say i'm ok but still need lots of work. the most recent advance i've been working is really pushing to get my back foot BACK. it wants to creep up the board and slow me down. with the back foot properly placed on the pad i pulled off one of my sickest turns to date on a 4 footer last week. a blazing frontside whip and drop back that i was amazed i landed as i rode away. that felt really good. the surf has stayed consistently big for the last couple weeks as well. plus warm temps. i actually just wore my suit for the first time late this afternoon in a long while.
next i want to speak to my relationship with my surfboard. it is a relationship too. i know that thing by look and touch better than i've known anything in my life. i can tell how it feels and move it with the slightest twist of my body or tweak of my hand. it's a pretty torrid love affair. however it's been 2 years of non-stop 6'2" and it's time to move on. i bought a board that i haven't even ridden yet. i know it's time because these late fall/early winter waves are terrible for shortboarders. the waves can be big but for the most part they are long and slow. it can be very frustrating to miss a nice wave because you simply cannot get this tiny board in the right spot. we've been through a lot together and it's been an incredible 2 years but i gotta let it go. it will still be there of course, but i have to move on. i never thought it would be this hard.
i find it funny that cd jukeboxes are already antiquated. at least with these you could choose any song from the album. the touchscreen versions they have now need work.