go forth
this picture is actually from 2008/05/22. my friend mark sent it recently. he was waiting for us on shore so we could grab lunch. us is me and my friend ben. we're the two black specs right in the middle. it was from the day i posted this. a truely long paddle for very little reward. the whitewater was no joke.
the surf has since been better. i went out yesterday evening and found some surprisingly large waves. i should have known, in the parking lot was a photographer with a very nice telephoto lens. that is pretty much always a tipoff something big is happening. caught two decent waves. the first one was head high but crumbly. i was noticing my surfboard is really starting to look worn. slight yellowing and much wear and tear. i really want to spend my stimulus check on a new one.