Buenos Aires 3/30
Woke up around 11am.
K, bless her, went to the pastry shop next door and returned with sweets, quiche and yummies, which I enjoyed with my mate.
Yerba mate’s an interesting drink. Place the silver straw into the cup (mate), pour the dry leaves into the container to fill it ¾ of the way. Then fill it with hot water. You hold the cup and sip through the straw. You’re not to handle the straw. As you consume it you keep pouring hot water onto it, for at least a couple of days, as the flavor goes from bitter to mellow. It’s a stimulant, used in the way that Americans drink coffee, but I haven’t noticed any of the jitteriness or stomach issues. I quite like it. My mate (cut) is getting a lot of use.
Hopped in a cab to join my friend Eve for brunch at 2pm. Yes, brunch is at 2pm. Although she later said 4pm would have been appropriate for Sunday brunch. Taxis are cheap and plentiful here. Of course the exchange rate helps. Brunch was at this Scandinavian inspired resto called Olsen. The gateway of light wooden slats opens up and leads you down a place stone pathway through a spacious garden with pine and poplars, leaves just turning gold, dappled autumn light playing on the ingenious landscaping. A minimalist water sculpture on the wall leads to a modern pond, over which the stone walkway continues, taking you to the outdoors dining area under pale canvas awning. The huge glass wall and folding glass doors to the indoor dining area seamlessly blend the exterior and the interior with the central fireplace, Scandinavian furniture and barn high ceiling.
We met up with Eve and a friend of hers. She’s an international nomad studying Tango here, splitting her time between the US and Buenos Aires, along with other stints of living in Japan, Spain and elsewhere. She filled us, the newcomers, in on life in BA - tango, politics, the agricultural strikes, state of feminism, lack of kink, use of the word queer, Argentinean nationalism, etc.
It’s easy, and common, to spend 3 hours over a meal here.
(interesting street art on our walk.)
Then we walked to the square on Serrano to stroll the weekend market of artists and crafts. Some fine work, some kitschy, some crap. All fun!
Easy stroll back to the flat where K and Gary each took naps. Neither Dart nor I could nap (I’m bad with siesta) so we decided to walk over to the café for WiFi. No luck. Too slow. Ug!
(A photo from the cafe. Argentinians are very serious about their ice cream. All the bins are different flavors of ice cream. Very very high quality too!)
After we all prettied up and met up with the boys’ friend, Hugo, an elegant, handsome porteno gentleman. Off to La Cabrera restaurant! OMG! Amazing, delicious meat place. It’s totally worth the hour’s wait (even with reservation.) The black sausage was the best we’ve ever had. Malbec wine, the signature Argentinean varietal is nicely rounded and just perfect with the tasty meats. We all shared our dishes. My braised sweetbread was the best any of us had had. We discovered a wonderful after meal dish called something like “the Policeman’s Lunch: of Gouda cheese and sweet potato paste - delicious and unique flavor combo. Hugo was beaming with pride at the pleasure we took in the meal.
We attempted to go to the correct location of the Chueca, but it had just closed for the evening. The last Sunday night show had just ended… but we’ll try again Wednesday, as the drag show that night is the best, we’re told.
So early home and sleep by 2am.
K, bless her, went to the pastry shop next door and returned with sweets, quiche and yummies, which I enjoyed with my mate.
Yerba mate’s an interesting drink. Place the silver straw into the cup (mate), pour the dry leaves into the container to fill it ¾ of the way. Then fill it with hot water. You hold the cup and sip through the straw. You’re not to handle the straw. As you consume it you keep pouring hot water onto it, for at least a couple of days, as the flavor goes from bitter to mellow. It’s a stimulant, used in the way that Americans drink coffee, but I haven’t noticed any of the jitteriness or stomach issues. I quite like it. My mate (cut) is getting a lot of use.
Hopped in a cab to join my friend Eve for brunch at 2pm. Yes, brunch is at 2pm. Although she later said 4pm would have been appropriate for Sunday brunch. Taxis are cheap and plentiful here. Of course the exchange rate helps. Brunch was at this Scandinavian inspired resto called Olsen. The gateway of light wooden slats opens up and leads you down a place stone pathway through a spacious garden with pine and poplars, leaves just turning gold, dappled autumn light playing on the ingenious landscaping. A minimalist water sculpture on the wall leads to a modern pond, over which the stone walkway continues, taking you to the outdoors dining area under pale canvas awning. The huge glass wall and folding glass doors to the indoor dining area seamlessly blend the exterior and the interior with the central fireplace, Scandinavian furniture and barn high ceiling.
We met up with Eve and a friend of hers. She’s an international nomad studying Tango here, splitting her time between the US and Buenos Aires, along with other stints of living in Japan, Spain and elsewhere. She filled us, the newcomers, in on life in BA - tango, politics, the agricultural strikes, state of feminism, lack of kink, use of the word queer, Argentinean nationalism, etc.
It’s easy, and common, to spend 3 hours over a meal here.
(interesting street art on our walk.)
Then we walked to the square on Serrano to stroll the weekend market of artists and crafts. Some fine work, some kitschy, some crap. All fun!
Easy stroll back to the flat where K and Gary each took naps. Neither Dart nor I could nap (I’m bad with siesta) so we decided to walk over to the café for WiFi. No luck. Too slow. Ug!
(A photo from the cafe. Argentinians are very serious about their ice cream. All the bins are different flavors of ice cream. Very very high quality too!)
After we all prettied up and met up with the boys’ friend, Hugo, an elegant, handsome porteno gentleman. Off to La Cabrera restaurant! OMG! Amazing, delicious meat place. It’s totally worth the hour’s wait (even with reservation.) The black sausage was the best we’ve ever had. Malbec wine, the signature Argentinean varietal is nicely rounded and just perfect with the tasty meats. We all shared our dishes. My braised sweetbread was the best any of us had had. We discovered a wonderful after meal dish called something like “the Policeman’s Lunch: of Gouda cheese and sweet potato paste - delicious and unique flavor combo. Hugo was beaming with pride at the pleasure we took in the meal.
We attempted to go to the correct location of the Chueca, but it had just closed for the evening. The last Sunday night show had just ended… but we’ll try again Wednesday, as the drag show that night is the best, we’re told.
So early home and sleep by 2am.