My Longies Pattern
People asked, and here it is. The whole thing is very easy to change if you want stripes to not get mangled by short rows, and super easy to adjust if your gauge is different. I usually use an elastic waist but will also include my directions for getting a ribbed waistband with drawstring holes that always line up (so you don't end up with one string going towards the inside of the pants when you get to the center front).
Worsted or aran weight 100% wool, circular needle to get a gauge no less than 4 stitches per inch (aim for 4.5-5, but this pattern can really adjust for weird gauge), 30" long circular if you want to magic loop, or 12-18" if you want to match your finished size. I prefer to go for the 12-18" and grab a longer one to magic loop both legs at one time. I use 6 stitch markers. You will also need scrap yarn and dpns or a circular to magic loop the leg if you prefer to knit your legs one at a time. I also prefer to use dpns to graft the gusset stitches.
Cast on with long tail method enough stitches to reach your desired hip measurement. My example will be my standard "medium" size getting 4.5 spi. Cast on 80 stitches. If you are casting on for 2x2 ribbing and want to make a drawstring row, be sure to cast on a multiple of 8. If you are knitting an enclosed elastic waist the specific number of stitches just needs to be divisible by 2 for later on. Join in the round, careful not to twist, and place an end of round marker. For ribbing work k2p2 for at least 1 inch (usually 6-7 rows depending on your row gauge) then work one eyelet round by working *k2, yo, p2tog* around. Follow with an additional round of ribbing before switching to stockinette (I prefer my eyelet row at the bottom of my ribbing, feel free to put it in the middle, so after 3-4 rounds, if you prefer, and follow with 3-4 more rounds of ribbing).
For an elastic waist, knit 1inch in stockinette (or no less than 1/4" wider than your chosen elastic width, I like 3/4" knit elastic). Purl all stitches in the next row, then knit another inch in stockinette. Here is the tricky bit, you will now line up your cast on stitches with your working stitches and knit the bump from the bottom of the cast on stitch with your live stitch. Try to keep the band flat and straight by using the cast on stitch that is directly above the stitch you are about to knit it with. Knit all but 5 stitches of the row in this manner, so you have an opening to insert your elastic later.
Once your desired waistband is complete, proceed to knit all stitches for approximately 1/2 your desired rise minus 4 inches (you will get those inches between the gusset and short rows).
If you are working stripes you will want to slip in short rows where you can across the back half of your longies versus the large block technique I prefer for most cases. For wide diameter stripes I would add 1-2 short rows per stripe. For narrow, 2 row stripes in 2 colors, you will want to do the following: knit one stripe, change color and work one short row out and back, change color and work a second short row, then change again and work the next full stripe. You can only see the change at the sides and I find it to not be visually jarring. When you have reached 1/2 your desired rise minus 4 on the front and minus 2 on the back using this method skip to the gusset directions.
If you are working solid with no stripes you can do the short rows I lay out here. You can use whatever technique you like, but I prefer Cat Bordhi's "sweet tomato heel" short rows, for which there is a great video by Ms Bordhi herself on YouTube if you want to try it. I find it looks much smoother than the wrap and turn method and is easier to execute.
For the placement you will want to place a second marker at the half round point, dividing your work in half, one half will now be the front and one half the back. I prefer to make the second half of the stitches my back, but pick the side you like. Knit to one stitch before the end of round marker, work short row turning method and work back to one stitch before the other marker. Work short row method and knit to two stitches before previous turn. Keep working back and forth stepping in each turn 2 stitches before the prior turn on that side until the short row measures approximately 2 inches deep. Resume knitting in the round, working short row wraps or pickup or what have you as you come to them on this row, then proceed to the gusset.
For the gusset you will need to mark the middle of both the front and back and work the gusset there. If each half is an even number of stitches, place the center two stitches between markers. If you have an odd number, place the center stitch between markers. You will now, on either each round or every other round, depending on desired gusset width, m1r after the first gusset marker and m1l before the second marker for both the front and back. Be sure to stay consistent with increases so you're not trying to kitchener two different numbers of stitches at the end of the gusset increases. My suggestion is to make a wider gusset for babies who are sitting and crawling. Toddlers and newborns don't usually need as much extra room in width. I will sometimes make the gusset extra long just to fit more increases in it. Your gusset is done when it is at least 1 inch long on each side (2 inches when grafted) and 10-12 stitches wide at a minimum. I have put 20 stitches in there for a crawler who suffered from crazy plumber butt. Work each gusset half onto a DPN and reserve the remaining stitches on your circular (I tuck the needle tips through the knitting so it won't slip out). Cut yarn leaving a long tail for weaving the gusset. Using kitchener (YouTube or knittinghelp.com have good videos, or the Knitty.com article has clear pictures and directions if you are unfamiliar with the texhnique) graft your gusset stitches together. You will now have a completed body with two sad looking leg holes.
For the legs, either work one leg at a time, being sure to count rows or measure very carefully to make them even, or work two at a time by working on one long circular with two balls of yarn (or both ends from one ball, but this can be annoying and tangly if working long legs). I start each leg by picking up 4-6 stitches from the side of the gusset. Less for smaller babies, more for toddlers. For a soaker that fits well under pants work only a row of stockinette before ribbing, or if you want some other cuff the length should be 1-1.5 inches, measured from the picked up stitches along the gusset, to prevent bunching. For shorts I work anywhere from 2 inches for newborns to 4 inches for toddler shorts. For longies aim for 7 inches for smaller infants, mediums are often anywhere from 8 to 10 inches, and toddlers measure the inseam. I like an i-cord bind off, garter cuff or ribbing, and of course for girls ruffles and lace are adorable. Remember that for babies longer is better as they grow FAST. I like to add at least 2 inches of growing length for kids in medium sizes, because that is when they really start growing up faster than out. Nevyn still wears a medium at two and a half, just with very long inseams.
For finishing the elastic waist, measure the child or take an educated guess based on the desired size. Nevyn gets 18 inches of elastic, overlapped 1/2" after threading through the waist (I find a large safety pin, like a diaper pin, fastened to the elastic, the easiest way to get it through) and either sewn with a backstitch by hand or on a machine, until it is good and sturdy. I like to stitch a box and cross just so I have a ridiculous number of stitches in it. Be sure not to accidentally stitch the elastic to your knitting... Then pull the elastic so it lays flat and snug inside the knitted band and whip stitch your opening closed with your yarn tail or a scrap bit of yarn. Weave in all your ends, make a drawstring if you made a ribbed waist (I like twisted cord, but i-cord or braided cord both work well if you prefer), wash, lanolize and block it somewhere flat to dry.
Clear as mud? Questions? Feel free to ask them! You can easily slip cables into these running down the legs, I made Nevyn a pair and simply accounted for the slight suck in they cause by casting on a few extra stitches, and I worked my short rows between them. Color work patterns fit easily in the plain knit areas between the waist and short row wedge, or on the legs. And you're probably sick to death of my rambling. :)
Posted via LiveJournal app for Android.