Tutorial: Crochet Dolls
I decided to write up my crochet pattern for making my Nerdific Crochet Dolls, so I can follow it along in the future, and other people can try it out too. I’ve never written a pattern before, and instead of trying to make it sound professional I threw in some little notes and used fewer abbreviations, so if you have trouble following it, just comment and I will help you out. As long as you can make a single stitch and chain, you can make this. So pop in the first season of the L word, make a pot of tea, grab your favourite comic book, and get busy. In this pattern I’m making Knockout.
Hook: 5.5mm
Yarn: Medium (4) worsted yarn in whatever colour you need to make your doll.
HEAD
Base - Chain 3, connect to first chain to form loop, chain 1
Row 1 - 2 sc in every stitch to make 6 stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 2 - 2 sc in every odd number stitch and 1 sc in every even number stitch, join with first stitch and chain 1 - 13 stitches (If you don’t have exactly 13, don’t worry. I don’t normally count my stitches; just as long as you are making a nice flat circle you are good.)
Row 3-5 - Repeat row 2, you should have around 40 stitches and a flat round disc in the end.
Row 6 - Sc in every stitch, but only through the outside/back loop (you are now changing directions and starting to make the face/sides of the head instead), join and chain 1.
Row 7-15 - Sc in ever stitch (through both loops), join and chain 1. You want to keep your stitches tight so it starts to curl up by the 10th row. If you are having trouble getting it to curl, then feel free to skip the last stitch at the end of the rows, this will create a bit of a scar in the back of the head, but if the doll has hair or a hat, it won’t be noticeable. On the 11th row I took in the row by two because it was seeming a little big, and from then to 15th row I took in one or two stitches at the back to prepare for decreasing and give the head a better shape.
NOTE ON EYES: At this point, if you aren’t making a mask, it is the best time to put your eyes on your doll. You can spend some money on store bought eyes, or you can make it from simple things you can find around your house (given you have some fimo). I wanted to do pictures for this part, but I don’t have the fimo I need to make eyes for Knockout, so I will have to explain it by words. You can stop at this point and wait until I find fimo, or you can just try to follow my words. You will need: 2 equally sized buttons, slightly smaller then you want your eyes, I find those cheap pearl ones are the best, 2 paper clips, smaller the better, and fimo in the colour of the eyes you want. Preheat the oven to the directions on your fimo.
Unbend a paper clip and fold it through two of the holes in a button so they are sticking out at an equal length on each side. Take your fimo and evenly cover it over the button, not too thick, and use it to secure the paperclip a bit. Repeat with the other button.
Bake as per directions, be very careful not to burn or let it discolour, then let cool.
Now stick the “eye” through the face of your head, and twist the ends like a twist tie to secure it in place. For positioning I find in the center of the head looks best to give it that silly/chibi look.
Continue with the pattern.
Row 16 - Decrease first two stitches together, sc in next two stitches, repeat all the way around, join and chain 1. Remember to keep your stitches tight here.
Row 17-18 - Decrease first two, sc in next stitch, repeat, then join and chain 1.
Row 19-? - Now it gets kind of messy, just keep decreasing 2 at a time until you are left with the smallest possible hole that you can turn it inside out (if you put your eyes on the right side), or stuff through.
Now stuff that head. My dog destroyed one of her plushies the other day so instead of throwing it out I’m just reusing it.
After you have stuffed, continue to do the 2 stitch decrease until you can close the hole and tie it off.
You may have to shape it a bit, just until the stuffing stops being lumpy.
Time: Pilot (episodes 1 &2) and half of episode 3 of Season 1 of the L Word.
BODY
Base - Chain 3, connect to first chain to form loop, chain 1
Row 1 - 2 sc in every stitch to make 6 stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 2 - 2 sc in every odd number stitch and 1 sc in every even number stitch, join with first stitch and chain 1 - 13 stitches
Row 3 - Sc in each stitch.
Row 4-5 - Sc in each stitch, join, chain 1, except 2 sc in one stitch on the opposite side of where you start your rows.
Row 6-12- Sc in each stitch, join, chain 1. I did slip another 2 sc in one of the stitches in one of the rows, but I forget which, just do what you think will work best for your doll.
Row 13-? Sc in first stitch, decrease next 2 stitches, repeat all around, join and chain 1. Repeat this until you get a small hole that is big enough to stuff, then close it up.
Time: Episode 4 of Season 1 of the L Word
ARMS
Base - Chain 3, connect to first chain to form loop, chain 1
Row 1 - 2 sc in every stitch to make 6 stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 2 - 9/10 Sc in ever stitch, join, chain 1. I didn’t keep good track of my rows, but you should end your arm on row 9/10. If your doll needs gloves change colours half way through, or wherever according to how long your gloves are.
Stuff the arm at this point.
HANDS
Row 9 - Sc in first six stitches, chain 3, sc in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, go back to sc in the rest of the stitches in the row, join and chain 1.
Row 10- Sc in next two stitches, *chain four, sc in second chain from hook and rest of the chains, sc in next stitch* repeat until you have four fingers. When you do your last sc, join the back side of the hand to the palm before the thumb, and then continue along the rest of the hand.
Repeat for other hand/arm, however, make sure you have one right and the other left.
Time (per arm): 30 minutes of Episode 5 of Season 1 of the L word. (I don’t know how much more of this series I can take.)
LEGS
Base - Chain 3, connect to first chain to form loop, chain 1
Row 1 - 2 sc in every stitch to make 6 stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 2 - Sc once in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, repeat, join, and chain 1.
Row 3-5 - sc in each stitch, join and chain 1.
Row 6 - You’ll want to repeat your last few rows, but increase it my one stitch at some point.
Row 7-11 - Sc in each stitch, join and chain 1.
Stuff leg at this point.
Row 12 - Decrease by 2 through inside loop of each stitch, join and chain 1.
Row 13 - Close up the hole and tie it off.
Repeat for the other leg.
Time per leg: Episode 6, more or less (I had to stop and make soup and listen to a Scott Thompson podcast to prevent myself from hitting my head through the drywall. The things I do for Pam Grier.)
BOOTS
Base - Chain 3, connect to first chain to form loop, chain 1
Row 1 - 2 sc in every stitch to make 6 stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 2 - 2 sc in odd numbered stitches, 1 sc in even numbered stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 3 - 2 sc in first, 1 sc in next to, then repeat around, join and chain 1.
Row 4 - sc through outside loop of each stitch, join and chain 1.
Row 5-7 - Sc in ever stitch, join and chain 1. Make sure you don’t make these too lose, you want to have to push and squish them on, otherwise they will fall off all the time.
Time: I don’t know, it is all a blur of anger, hatred, and maniacal laughter.
ASSEMBLY
Attach all the limbs and head in the appropriate places. I've decided to explain this part through pictures.
Tie it off.
ACCESSORIES
You are on your own. But don’t fear, have fun, if you get frustrated stop and take a break. Always remember that the best thing about crocheting is you can always unravel it and start again. If you need help, feel free to comment and I can try to help you out.
The finished doll will be in my next post.
Hook: 5.5mm
Yarn: Medium (4) worsted yarn in whatever colour you need to make your doll.
HEAD
Base - Chain 3, connect to first chain to form loop, chain 1
Row 1 - 2 sc in every stitch to make 6 stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 2 - 2 sc in every odd number stitch and 1 sc in every even number stitch, join with first stitch and chain 1 - 13 stitches (If you don’t have exactly 13, don’t worry. I don’t normally count my stitches; just as long as you are making a nice flat circle you are good.)
Row 3-5 - Repeat row 2, you should have around 40 stitches and a flat round disc in the end.
Row 6 - Sc in every stitch, but only through the outside/back loop (you are now changing directions and starting to make the face/sides of the head instead), join and chain 1.
Row 7-15 - Sc in ever stitch (through both loops), join and chain 1. You want to keep your stitches tight so it starts to curl up by the 10th row. If you are having trouble getting it to curl, then feel free to skip the last stitch at the end of the rows, this will create a bit of a scar in the back of the head, but if the doll has hair or a hat, it won’t be noticeable. On the 11th row I took in the row by two because it was seeming a little big, and from then to 15th row I took in one or two stitches at the back to prepare for decreasing and give the head a better shape.
NOTE ON EYES: At this point, if you aren’t making a mask, it is the best time to put your eyes on your doll. You can spend some money on store bought eyes, or you can make it from simple things you can find around your house (given you have some fimo). I wanted to do pictures for this part, but I don’t have the fimo I need to make eyes for Knockout, so I will have to explain it by words. You can stop at this point and wait until I find fimo, or you can just try to follow my words. You will need: 2 equally sized buttons, slightly smaller then you want your eyes, I find those cheap pearl ones are the best, 2 paper clips, smaller the better, and fimo in the colour of the eyes you want. Preheat the oven to the directions on your fimo.
Unbend a paper clip and fold it through two of the holes in a button so they are sticking out at an equal length on each side. Take your fimo and evenly cover it over the button, not too thick, and use it to secure the paperclip a bit. Repeat with the other button.
Bake as per directions, be very careful not to burn or let it discolour, then let cool.
Now stick the “eye” through the face of your head, and twist the ends like a twist tie to secure it in place. For positioning I find in the center of the head looks best to give it that silly/chibi look.
Continue with the pattern.
Row 16 - Decrease first two stitches together, sc in next two stitches, repeat all the way around, join and chain 1. Remember to keep your stitches tight here.
Row 17-18 - Decrease first two, sc in next stitch, repeat, then join and chain 1.
Row 19-? - Now it gets kind of messy, just keep decreasing 2 at a time until you are left with the smallest possible hole that you can turn it inside out (if you put your eyes on the right side), or stuff through.
Now stuff that head. My dog destroyed one of her plushies the other day so instead of throwing it out I’m just reusing it.
After you have stuffed, continue to do the 2 stitch decrease until you can close the hole and tie it off.
You may have to shape it a bit, just until the stuffing stops being lumpy.
Time: Pilot (episodes 1 &2) and half of episode 3 of Season 1 of the L Word.
BODY
Base - Chain 3, connect to first chain to form loop, chain 1
Row 1 - 2 sc in every stitch to make 6 stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 2 - 2 sc in every odd number stitch and 1 sc in every even number stitch, join with first stitch and chain 1 - 13 stitches
Row 3 - Sc in each stitch.
Row 4-5 - Sc in each stitch, join, chain 1, except 2 sc in one stitch on the opposite side of where you start your rows.
Row 6-12- Sc in each stitch, join, chain 1. I did slip another 2 sc in one of the stitches in one of the rows, but I forget which, just do what you think will work best for your doll.
Row 13-? Sc in first stitch, decrease next 2 stitches, repeat all around, join and chain 1. Repeat this until you get a small hole that is big enough to stuff, then close it up.
Time: Episode 4 of Season 1 of the L Word
ARMS
Base - Chain 3, connect to first chain to form loop, chain 1
Row 1 - 2 sc in every stitch to make 6 stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 2 - 9/10 Sc in ever stitch, join, chain 1. I didn’t keep good track of my rows, but you should end your arm on row 9/10. If your doll needs gloves change colours half way through, or wherever according to how long your gloves are.
Stuff the arm at this point.
HANDS
Row 9 - Sc in first six stitches, chain 3, sc in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, go back to sc in the rest of the stitches in the row, join and chain 1.
Row 10- Sc in next two stitches, *chain four, sc in second chain from hook and rest of the chains, sc in next stitch* repeat until you have four fingers. When you do your last sc, join the back side of the hand to the palm before the thumb, and then continue along the rest of the hand.
Repeat for other hand/arm, however, make sure you have one right and the other left.
Time (per arm): 30 minutes of Episode 5 of Season 1 of the L word. (I don’t know how much more of this series I can take.)
LEGS
Base - Chain 3, connect to first chain to form loop, chain 1
Row 1 - 2 sc in every stitch to make 6 stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 2 - Sc once in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, repeat, join, and chain 1.
Row 3-5 - sc in each stitch, join and chain 1.
Row 6 - You’ll want to repeat your last few rows, but increase it my one stitch at some point.
Row 7-11 - Sc in each stitch, join and chain 1.
Stuff leg at this point.
Row 12 - Decrease by 2 through inside loop of each stitch, join and chain 1.
Row 13 - Close up the hole and tie it off.
Repeat for the other leg.
Time per leg: Episode 6, more or less (I had to stop and make soup and listen to a Scott Thompson podcast to prevent myself from hitting my head through the drywall. The things I do for Pam Grier.)
BOOTS
Base - Chain 3, connect to first chain to form loop, chain 1
Row 1 - 2 sc in every stitch to make 6 stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 2 - 2 sc in odd numbered stitches, 1 sc in even numbered stitches, join and chain 1.
Row 3 - 2 sc in first, 1 sc in next to, then repeat around, join and chain 1.
Row 4 - sc through outside loop of each stitch, join and chain 1.
Row 5-7 - Sc in ever stitch, join and chain 1. Make sure you don’t make these too lose, you want to have to push and squish them on, otherwise they will fall off all the time.
Time: I don’t know, it is all a blur of anger, hatred, and maniacal laughter.
ASSEMBLY
Attach all the limbs and head in the appropriate places. I've decided to explain this part through pictures.
Tie it off.
ACCESSORIES
You are on your own. But don’t fear, have fun, if you get frustrated stop and take a break. Always remember that the best thing about crocheting is you can always unravel it and start again. If you need help, feel free to comment and I can try to help you out.
The finished doll will be in my next post.