Kharkov - Pride and Prejudice
Pride - because I live in the capital and used to think that Kharkov - sleepy province. Prejudice - until recently I was sure that in Kharkov there is nothing interesting. I was wrong!
Freedom Square - conservancy area of the USSR
Many Ukrainians and foreigners believe Kharkiv boring town. Its story does not begin in the "gray" of antiquity, there are no palaces, ancient churches, historic parks. Brad Pitt wasn’t born in Kharkov, and Kennedy was killed elsewhere. Hugh Grant didn’t choose Kharkov’s Freedom Square for his car-prank with a hot brunette-girl.".
Red calla-lilies instead of the red flag
No sea, no mountains, not even Disneyland!
More than a million people live here, industrial is quit developed in Kharkiv, especially the chemical, there are many institutes and universities, but not many people choose Kharkov as an exciting tourist route.
One of the entrances of Gosprom. Their whole 9 . Всего их 9
My obsessive fascination with architecture has appeared recently. Until then, I also thought Kharkov deadly boring and even disgusting city. But now I'm ready to argue with those who say that there is not much to look at!
For two streets run directly through Derzhprom - name of Romain Rolland and Henri Barbusse.
The first and perhaps the main attraction - the Gosprom-building on Kharkov's Freedom Square - Remember? This one, where Hugh Grand had never visited. If he had been here, his statue would have erected in the square. But we only see a statue of Lenin (although I think he also had never been here). This is the sixth area by square in Europe - it is just huge! I can understand that - Gosprom need suitable "stand". You can read Interesting facts about this building here. I love the architecture in the style of constructivism. It's a pity a just few people like it too.
I wrote a separate article on this topic a couple years ago. I considered the relationship of architecture of Soviet Constructivism and painting Russian avant-garde. I do not agree with the Soviet idelologiey, but Russian art and architecture of the 1920s and '30s reflected very expressive the romance of first post-revolutionary decades. I am even sorry for those people who truly believed in the revolutionary idea and created their works in their name. It was all a sinister illusion. Gosprom - clear expression of imperial grandeur, which sought the USSR.
Frankly, the building looks grand - it's a whole city!
Height of Gosprom-building with TV tower - 108 meters.
Now the imperial ambitions have moved to another time and another place. The situation is ludicrous: a small agricultural market was organized behind ‘Comrade’ Lenin in front of Gosprom’s windows. Red-faced peasants brisk trade in meat, honey and potatoes. The idols were cast, life goes on. Hugh Grant on the pedestal!
Freedom Square (formerly bore the name of Dzerzhinsky) 6th largest square in Europe.
View from the window 13th floor of the hotel "Kharkov"
"What am I worse than Hugh Grant?!"
I used to always settled at the hotel "Kharkov" on the upper floors. So I could see in full view Gosprom. True, all the time I left the camera at home. I picked up a camera in my last visit, but was unable to make normal pictures. Stupid new building was erected before the windows of my hotel. Now it hides most of the Gosprom-building.
The dome in the background - Transfiguration Cathedral, the oldest temple in the city, 1689
Let's move on. If you do not like Gosprom, I'll look for something traditional. There are less extreme architecture in Kharkov.
City developed quit actively in the early 20th century. This was associated with the rise of industry and commerce. Rich industrialists and merchants built private residences and offices of the new type. You've probably already guessed that we would go about Art Nouveau. This is also one of my favorite architectural style. I recently discovered that the buildings in the style of Art Nouveau in Kharkov quite a lot. This fashion came in Tsarist Russia from Europe, the first such buildings have appeared in Paris and Brussels, then in Vienna and other European cities.
It existed a very short period - from the late 19th century until the 1910-14 year.
Volga-Kama Bank, the architect. A. Beketov, 1908 (now - the puppet theater)
Many critics blamed the new style, considering its refined bourgeois. Architects were accused of pretentiousness, piling up of details and embellishments. However, the first unified style obey all ways of life: architecture, painting, theater posters and decorations, interior, fashion, tableware, furniture, etc. Art Nouveau was a purely practical importance. Even in architecture, now look, facade of the building was secondary, he was subject to an internal volume and interior.
Zhirardovskaya manufactory, 1912
Despite the attacks, the style was exquisite and elegant. It absorbed the traditions of Eastern and Egyptian art. Real work of art in a modernist style characterized by irreproducible harmony and balance. Art Nouveau was introduced later In Eastern Europe and the Russian Empire. It "delayed" longer here - before the First World War. Unfortunately I could not see a lot of houses in Art Nouveau style in this trip - I had very little time. But something that could be seen. Lots of photos of Kharkiv Art Nouveau.
The mansion of the merchant G.Golberg, 1915, Arch. B. Etrovich
Lots of photos of Kharkiv Art Nouveau HERE.
There are a lot of churches in Kharkov. They are not very old. Most of them were built from the late 19th - early 20th century. Some of them are very picturesque. For example, I really like the huge Cathedral of the Annunciation (which can accommodate 4000 believers), which can be seen from different points of the city. Kharkovites not love this church, they say, the place is "impure" - the intersection.
Kharkov temples:
Cathedral of the Annunciation(1888-1901, Architect M.Lovtsov)
And the cross fell twice from the dome. I think the church is not guilty, just the builders have curved hands! Resident of Kharkov irreverently called "candy" the Cathedral alluding to his patterned inlay but I like it! The temple was built 1880-1901, respectively. During construction, was used Russian-Byzantine style fashionable in the early 20th century. Similar temples are in Bulgaria. Only when they are old, and in Kharkov - more modern.
The height of the bell tower of the cathedral of the Assumption - 84 meters
Other churches in Kharkov is also rather "young," and looking nice. The only exception is the Transfiguration Church and Assumption Cathedral of the 17th century.
Ozeryanskaya church at Cold Mountain
Kazan Church (1904-1912, architect. V.Nemkin, Pokrovsky V.)
Trekhsvyatitelskaya Church (1906-1914, architect. Lovtsov M., V. Pokrovsky)
And a couple more photos:
Constitution Square, 18. "Fiddler on the Roof"
These owls we saw from the window of the office of our partners in the city!
If you happen to get to the East of Ukraine, you should consider - perhaps to visit Kharkov?
Freedom Square - conservancy area of the USSR
Many Ukrainians and foreigners believe Kharkiv boring town. Its story does not begin in the "gray" of antiquity, there are no palaces, ancient churches, historic parks. Brad Pitt wasn’t born in Kharkov, and Kennedy was killed elsewhere. Hugh Grant didn’t choose Kharkov’s Freedom Square for his car-prank with a hot brunette-girl.".
Red calla-lilies instead of the red flag
No sea, no mountains, not even Disneyland!
More than a million people live here, industrial is quit developed in Kharkiv, especially the chemical, there are many institutes and universities, but not many people choose Kharkov as an exciting tourist route.
One of the entrances of Gosprom. Their whole 9 . Всего их 9
My obsessive fascination with architecture has appeared recently. Until then, I also thought Kharkov deadly boring and even disgusting city. But now I'm ready to argue with those who say that there is not much to look at!
For two streets run directly through Derzhprom - name of Romain Rolland and Henri Barbusse.
The first and perhaps the main attraction - the Gosprom-building on Kharkov's Freedom Square - Remember? This one, where Hugh Grand had never visited. If he had been here, his statue would have erected in the square. But we only see a statue of Lenin (although I think he also had never been here). This is the sixth area by square in Europe - it is just huge! I can understand that - Gosprom need suitable "stand". You can read Interesting facts about this building here. I love the architecture in the style of constructivism. It's a pity a just few people like it too.
I wrote a separate article on this topic a couple years ago. I considered the relationship of architecture of Soviet Constructivism and painting Russian avant-garde. I do not agree with the Soviet idelologiey, but Russian art and architecture of the 1920s and '30s reflected very expressive the romance of first post-revolutionary decades. I am even sorry for those people who truly believed in the revolutionary idea and created their works in their name. It was all a sinister illusion. Gosprom - clear expression of imperial grandeur, which sought the USSR.
Frankly, the building looks grand - it's a whole city!
Height of Gosprom-building with TV tower - 108 meters.
Now the imperial ambitions have moved to another time and another place. The situation is ludicrous: a small agricultural market was organized behind ‘Comrade’ Lenin in front of Gosprom’s windows. Red-faced peasants brisk trade in meat, honey and potatoes. The idols were cast, life goes on. Hugh Grant on the pedestal!
Freedom Square (formerly bore the name of Dzerzhinsky) 6th largest square in Europe.
View from the window 13th floor of the hotel "Kharkov"
"What am I worse than Hugh Grant?!"
I used to always settled at the hotel "Kharkov" on the upper floors. So I could see in full view Gosprom. True, all the time I left the camera at home. I picked up a camera in my last visit, but was unable to make normal pictures. Stupid new building was erected before the windows of my hotel. Now it hides most of the Gosprom-building.
The dome in the background - Transfiguration Cathedral, the oldest temple in the city, 1689
Let's move on. If you do not like Gosprom, I'll look for something traditional. There are less extreme architecture in Kharkov.
City developed quit actively in the early 20th century. This was associated with the rise of industry and commerce. Rich industrialists and merchants built private residences and offices of the new type. You've probably already guessed that we would go about Art Nouveau. This is also one of my favorite architectural style. I recently discovered that the buildings in the style of Art Nouveau in Kharkov quite a lot. This fashion came in Tsarist Russia from Europe, the first such buildings have appeared in Paris and Brussels, then in Vienna and other European cities.
It existed a very short period - from the late 19th century until the 1910-14 year.
Volga-Kama Bank, the architect. A. Beketov, 1908 (now - the puppet theater)
Many critics blamed the new style, considering its refined bourgeois. Architects were accused of pretentiousness, piling up of details and embellishments. However, the first unified style obey all ways of life: architecture, painting, theater posters and decorations, interior, fashion, tableware, furniture, etc. Art Nouveau was a purely practical importance. Even in architecture, now look, facade of the building was secondary, he was subject to an internal volume and interior.
Zhirardovskaya manufactory, 1912
Despite the attacks, the style was exquisite and elegant. It absorbed the traditions of Eastern and Egyptian art. Real work of art in a modernist style characterized by irreproducible harmony and balance. Art Nouveau was introduced later In Eastern Europe and the Russian Empire. It "delayed" longer here - before the First World War. Unfortunately I could not see a lot of houses in Art Nouveau style in this trip - I had very little time. But something that could be seen. Lots of photos of Kharkiv Art Nouveau.
The mansion of the merchant G.Golberg, 1915, Arch. B. Etrovich
Lots of photos of Kharkiv Art Nouveau HERE.
There are a lot of churches in Kharkov. They are not very old. Most of them were built from the late 19th - early 20th century. Some of them are very picturesque. For example, I really like the huge Cathedral of the Annunciation (which can accommodate 4000 believers), which can be seen from different points of the city. Kharkovites not love this church, they say, the place is "impure" - the intersection.
Kharkov temples:
Cathedral of the Annunciation(1888-1901, Architect M.Lovtsov)
And the cross fell twice from the dome. I think the church is not guilty, just the builders have curved hands! Resident of Kharkov irreverently called "candy" the Cathedral alluding to his patterned inlay but I like it! The temple was built 1880-1901, respectively. During construction, was used Russian-Byzantine style fashionable in the early 20th century. Similar temples are in Bulgaria. Only when they are old, and in Kharkov - more modern.
The height of the bell tower of the cathedral of the Assumption - 84 meters
Other churches in Kharkov is also rather "young," and looking nice. The only exception is the Transfiguration Church and Assumption Cathedral of the 17th century.
Ozeryanskaya church at Cold Mountain
Kazan Church (1904-1912, architect. V.Nemkin, Pokrovsky V.)
Trekhsvyatitelskaya Church (1906-1914, architect. Lovtsov M., V. Pokrovsky)
And a couple more photos:
Constitution Square, 18. "Fiddler on the Roof"
These owls we saw from the window of the office of our partners in the city!
If you happen to get to the East of Ukraine, you should consider - perhaps to visit Kharkov?