Well, I finally have my newest toy for the farm; something I should have had a long time ago, as it's one of the most useful things one can have on a farm: my "new" tractor! (More pics here.)
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Yeah, straps will NOT be up to the job. Use 3/8 'logging chain,' the sort one might use to pull said tractor out of an axle-deep rut someone might get stuck in. That kind of chain.
Generally, hook the chain securely on one side of the trailer, over the front axle somehow, then through the loop on the other side of the trailer. hook the loose end to the bottom of the binder, work binder lever to pull slack out, re-set the hook lower down, then work the binder again, with a piece of pipe (60cm or so) to get it good and tight. I personally loop the remaining free chain around the binder's handle so it cannot pop open, then hook the end back onto the chain. Some experimentation necessary. You might be able to use the loader bucket instead, or just use it in addition.
In the rear, repeat as above, but through the hardware that holds the drawbar to the rear of the tractor. Wish I could just stop by, as while this is something I've done, its much easier for me to do than to explain. You may want to stop by an equipment dealership or the like that you know, and ask for pointers-- with luck, they might have a tractor ready to be trucked out, or one that has yet to be unloaded from a trailer, which would let you see where and how.
Of course, when applying the chains, ensure that they do not come against hydraulic or electrical fittings, hoses, or wires, or anything easily bent, etc.!
The chain I've purchased is 3/8" "Transport Rated" chain, with matching Clevis-Slip hooks, and binders. It might even be overkill for this particular load, but I'd rather err on the side of caution.
Believe me, and I'm sure you know from experience, that chain will be very handy to have around on the farm. Really, better to have a little overkill than an accident, and the chain is cheap insurance that way.
On a farm, you can never have too much chain, too much rope, too many clevis pins (they have legs, I swear), too many 3-point pins, or too many remote cylinders. Just make sure when pulling stumps to never hook higher than the drawbar!
Generally, hook the chain securely on one side of the trailer, over the front axle somehow, then through the loop on the other side of the trailer. hook the loose end to the bottom of the binder, work binder lever to pull slack out, re-set the hook lower down, then work the binder again, with a piece of pipe (60cm or so) to get it good and tight. I personally loop the remaining free chain around the binder's handle so it cannot pop open, then hook the end back onto the chain. Some experimentation necessary.
You might be able to use the loader bucket instead, or just use it in addition.
In the rear, repeat as above, but through the hardware that holds the drawbar to the rear of the tractor. Wish I could just stop by, as while this is something I've done, its much easier for me to do than to explain. You may want to stop by an equipment dealership or the like that you know, and ask for pointers-- with luck, they might have a tractor ready to be trucked out, or one that has yet to be unloaded from a trailer, which would let you see where and how.
Of course, when applying the chains, ensure that they do not come against hydraulic or electrical fittings, hoses, or wires, or anything easily bent, etc.!
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