i almost died surfing today
stupid live journal...not much has happened recently...i surf a lot now..because its better than lj..today i went out and the waves were soo fucking huge!!! i almost died!!
Skaboom163: ehhh i got pretty worked out at the point
Skaboom163: i was just getting out to the line up..
Skaboom163: and this HUGE speck wave comes through (random huge waves that are in storm swell, Tons bigger than the other sets)
Skaboom163: so im like "SHIIIIIIIIT!!"
Skaboom163: because im stuck way inside..more than the other surfers Skaboom163: ..so this huge white water is coming right at me...so i dont know what to do..so i try not to panic and start paddling for my life...no luck..its going to hit me ..so i brace for the hit....and hold on to my board for dear life, and duck under the wave..it hit me so hard..it knocked most of my air out
RoXyGrEmln: eeek
Skaboom163: I GOT SOOOOOOOOO worked...i swallowed a ton of water, and didnt know if i was ever going to be able to come up for air..it kept pushing me down..and down..i didnt know what way was up.....my arm was almost dislocated because i held on to my board
Skaboom163: so it pushed me way back almost against the rocks and i was thrown up and down..but i held my board...it was hard though..i brushed a rock and everything
Skaboom163: and i came up and paddled out of the line up ...and to safer waters and almost started to cry
.....and thats how i almost died........but its been a fun summer...and surfing kicks so much ass..im going to be a pro surfer!!
Skaboom163: ehhh i got pretty worked out at the point
Skaboom163: i was just getting out to the line up..
Skaboom163: and this HUGE speck wave comes through (random huge waves that are in storm swell, Tons bigger than the other sets)
Skaboom163: so im like "SHIIIIIIIIT!!"
Skaboom163: because im stuck way inside..more than the other surfers Skaboom163: ..so this huge white water is coming right at me...so i dont know what to do..so i try not to panic and start paddling for my life...no luck..its going to hit me ..so i brace for the hit....and hold on to my board for dear life, and duck under the wave..it hit me so hard..it knocked most of my air out
RoXyGrEmln: eeek
Skaboom163: I GOT SOOOOOOOOO worked...i swallowed a ton of water, and didnt know if i was ever going to be able to come up for air..it kept pushing me down..and down..i didnt know what way was up.....my arm was almost dislocated because i held on to my board
Skaboom163: so it pushed me way back almost against the rocks and i was thrown up and down..but i held my board...it was hard though..i brushed a rock and everything
Skaboom163: and i came up and paddled out of the line up ...and to safer waters and almost started to cry
.....and thats how i almost died........but its been a fun summer...and surfing kicks so much ass..im going to be a pro surfer!!