401 final pattern.
This is giving her a shapely figure. Loving the look on the center front. Couple more tweaks I think, but no major structural changes. Thanks to sparklewren for the advice about smoothing out the waist. It was well founded advice, and looks more defined. Bust needs one final correction.
The reason for this overhang is a difference in girth required on grain versus on bias. We slashed the original pattern piece on grain, as shown below.
The football shape is the gore we direct draped, but I didn't take pictures of. Silly Eggy, no cookie. I transferred this girth and shape to the edge of the pattern piece. The problem arose when looking at the final pattern curve. My experience (subtext= newb mistakes) told me the curve over the bust was too extremely out of grain. The skin can't adequately fill the spaces if they aren't relatively close to grain along the full span of the curve. The curve was too out of line with itself.
The curve created by the dots show it essentially needs to be flattened. I left the bust shaping unfinished over the apex so this could be accounted for. The gore was essentially on grain, when transfering equal girth to the curved edge, the bias is exposed and it's more flexible for the same girth than an on grain piece will be.
This is a major improvement I feel in the pattern, and compliments the clients figure rather than merely covering it.