(no subject)
I started work on another corset this week. I'm trying out a new fabric, little herringbone twill in chocolate with raspberry colored casings. The new technique I'm trying is single layer construction with applied boning casings over the seams. This will make it stretch more being only one layer, but will payoff with more comfortable smooth finish on the inside. I'll also be forced to omit a waist tape unless I decide to also add a lining. Usually I welt two layers and stitch the casings between, but this technique will make it hard to use a fashion fabric and it would be easy to introduce poor match of strength and stretch.
Anyway, I also did a little direct drape- patterning- combo- mash- up- ness. I had three patterns lined up to adjust the location and amount of bust curve. I had my RL Shepp, sized up from a 20" waist to a 36", my hand drafted underbust pattern, that I direct draped the bottom circumference of the bust onto, even though I didn't like the effect, and a breast taping I did some time ago a- la Pattern School. So I just sorta lined them up in their approximate locations and traced around. Unfortunately I did this directly on the fabric. It's more than likely that with other fabrics the pattern won't work as well, as each would take up more turn of cloth making it smaller and have varying amounts of stretch. C'est la vie, I'll just re work for new fabric. I must say I really don't understand the size of a breast until it's been put into a pattern shape. Whoa boy. I may need more boning. I'll have to see.
The test fit was performed with the corset assembled inside out, with boning masking- taped to the interior. Thanks for that little hint from your halter dress, corsetrasewing. The bust was still slightly too big, and certainly had a bit of show when I raised my arms. I don't want to have to wear pasties with the little dear, so I re- sewed the second seam as well as the third. It looked okay when it was in test, but the trouble with a corset is you really can't tell how it will really fit until it's all but bound.
Good thing they don't take too long to sew.
Anyway, I also did a little direct drape- patterning- combo- mash- up- ness. I had three patterns lined up to adjust the location and amount of bust curve. I had my RL Shepp, sized up from a 20" waist to a 36", my hand drafted underbust pattern, that I direct draped the bottom circumference of the bust onto, even though I didn't like the effect, and a breast taping I did some time ago a- la Pattern School. So I just sorta lined them up in their approximate locations and traced around. Unfortunately I did this directly on the fabric. It's more than likely that with other fabrics the pattern won't work as well, as each would take up more turn of cloth making it smaller and have varying amounts of stretch. C'est la vie, I'll just re work for new fabric. I must say I really don't understand the size of a breast until it's been put into a pattern shape. Whoa boy. I may need more boning. I'll have to see.
The test fit was performed with the corset assembled inside out, with boning masking- taped to the interior. Thanks for that little hint from your halter dress, corsetrasewing. The bust was still slightly too big, and certainly had a bit of show when I raised my arms. I don't want to have to wear pasties with the little dear, so I re- sewed the second seam as well as the third. It looked okay when it was in test, but the trouble with a corset is you really can't tell how it will really fit until it's all but bound.
Good thing they don't take too long to sew.